Long distance archery/bowfishing

[HoLeChit]

I primarily bowfish from either the top of a dam at the local lake, and on top of embankments. Looking over the canadian river. With that being considered, 80% of my shots are "long distance" for bowfishing. The top of the dam down to the water is about 20 yards, and I have a reel that holds 25 yards of line. Given the above, I miss out on a lot of good targets, which is rather frustrating. I am ordering 50 yards of line and a 50 yard reel bottle for my reel, which will give me the range needed, but what I am worried about is power. 95% of the shots I take are on gar and carp that are less than a foot from the surface of the water, but when making a 30-35 yard shot with a 1190 grain fiberglass arrow, I worry about having enough penetration power to make a clean kill. I also worry about having enough power to get the arrow to the target. I shoot a 40# compound, which blew up on me the other day, and while I am waiting on getting it repaired, I am looking into purchasing a breakdown recurve in the 40-45# range for backup and as my loaner bow. Should I have a problem making 30-40yd shots with either setup?

Also, with the help of a good friend in California my interest in archery outside of bowfishing has exploded, and would like to practice target archery and eventually hunting. Any suggestions on a club or place to go for instruction and mentors hip in the OKC area?

 

[makeithappen]

You've got the bug! lol

I'd figure the kenetic energy provided your arrow weight and angle of shot, you'll probably be ok. A few members on here can perform the calculation. Math was my most hated subject.

As to clubs/etc, I only know of occasional 3D shoots. It'd be nice if a 3D outdoor range was available near OKC. I tend to just shoot in my backyard.

 

[HoLeChit]

You've got the bug! lol

I'd figure the kenetic energy provided your arrow weight and angle of shot, you'll probably be ok. A few members on here can perform the calculation. Math was my most hated subject.

As to clubs/etc, I only know of occasional 3D shoots. It'd be nice if a 3D outdoor range was available near OKC. I tend to just shoot in my backyard.

I definitely do! One of the best parts of it to me is that I can reuse the ammo, shoot in my back yard, and even the nicest bows that I want are cheaper than the nicest guns I want.

In bowfishing Is K/E more important than FPS? I guess you could say I'm just wanting to find a sweet spot, cause it's already hard to make accurate shots in 2-3 ft long moving targets shrouded by glare, water, and mud. I don't think lobbing arrows like I'm shooting a mortar is going to be ideal.

 

[makeithappen]

I don't think lobbing arrows like I'm shooting a mortar is going to be ideal.

Hahahahaha Think of it like lawn darts or corn hole.

I doubt much K/E is really necessary for fish, but impacting the water and continuing on it's path is another story. I'd think a heavy arrow would stay more accurate as it hits the water vs a lighter arrow which would deflect easier. Accuracy is key, and lighter arrows allow for more accuracy. Hello catch .22.

 

[Okie4570]

I've not shot at fish from above them by more that 15' on occasion, most of the time from a 4' platform on the front or back of a boat. Use an old PSE set at 45lbs. Use arrows with points similar to this. http://www.3riversarchery.com/AMS+Mayhem+Bowfishing+Arrow_i1021_baseitem.html

Only trouble I've ever had with "enough" is when shooting at fish deep in the water. I've bounced off several fish at Sooner like that. Like said above, if you can't hit them, it doesn't matter what you use. I still prefer heavier arrows out of my longbow, recurve and bowfishing bows though.

 

[HoLeChit]

Hahahahaha Think of it like lawn darts or corn hole.

I doubt much K/E is really necessary for fish, but impacting the water and continuing on it's path is another story. I'd think a heavy arrow would stay more accurate as it hits the water vs a lighter arrow which would deflect easier. Accuracy is key, and lighter arrows allow for more accuracy. Hello catch .22.

Haha If I could shoot an arrow as well as I can play cornhole I would be golden. Accuracy is def key, but when they are less than 12" under water I don't think refraction of the arrows flight isn't too big of a deal.

I've not shot at fish from above them by more that 15' on occasion, most of the time from a 4' platform on the front or back of a boat. Use an old PSE set at 45lbs. Use arrows with points similar to this. http://www.3riversarchery.com/AMS+Mayhem+Bowfishing+Arrow_i1021_baseitem.html

Only trouble I've ever had with "enough" is when shooting at fish deep in the water. I've bounced off several fish at Sooner like that. Like said above, if you can't hit them, it doesn't matter what you use. I still prefer heavier arrows out of my longbow, recurve and bowfishing bows though.

http://m.basspro.com/Cajun-Archery-Garpoon-Point-with-Complete-Arrow-Set/product/14022709412730/

These with the carbon shafts are what I use. Work great, other than causing too much damage if I hit a carp in the belly. Just about evicerated a carp the other day. Almost a 3" exit hole.

 

[Okie4570]

Refraction is just what your eye perceives (bending of light when going from air to water), the arrow doesn't just immediately change directions when it hits the water. If it did, you wouldn't have to aim lower than where where the fish appears.....unless you're shooting almost straight down, which you may be in your case based on what you described

 

[HoLeChit]

Refraction is just what your eye perceives (bending of light when going from air to water), the arrow doesn't just immediately change directions when it hits the water. If it did, you wouldn't have to aim lower than where where the fish appears.....unless you're shooting almost straight down, which you may be in your case based on what you described

Well damn. If this stuff wasn't more fun than a barrel of monkeys, it would frustrate me.

Howabout this guys: what would you suggest for a decent 40ish# recurve on the cheap? I want a backup/something lightweight and simple I can drag around if I don't feel like getting the compound out, and it would be nice if I had an extra bow for whoever is with me that may want to join my endeavors. I have my eye on a pse kingfisher, and honestly that is at my price point for a recurve, I would like to keep it under 130$.

 

[makeithappen]

If you want to buy new, that's not bad. If you have some time to kill, visit pawn shops. This is a great time of year to find bows on the cheap. Or, you could make a pvc bow? I've wanted to, just haven't yet

 

[HoLeChit]

If you want to buy new, that's not bad. If you have some time to kill, visit pawn shops. This is a great time of year to find bows on the cheap. Or, you could make a pvc bow? I've wanted to, just haven't yet

For some silly reason I never thought of that. I'll have to give it a look!

PVC Bow?