Prepping a few items for the coming cold front.......?

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Okie4570

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Thanks for all the replies, fellas.

I believe I do have the heat tape (looks almost more like an extension cord) on the water line under the mobile. It is then covered with the dark grey pipe insulation then wrapped in what looks like a gorilla tape. There is a plug at the door that the orange tape/cord is plugged into. In that area is where I have the brooder heat lamp like the one in pic below. No actual Heater type of appliance under there. Do you think this is still a major fire hazard under the mobile?

The well house is not insulated but can easily be done and it does have one of those little ceramic heaters in it. Probably be best to get rid of that and put a light bulb in the over head socket that's already there. The two wells on our property are, from what I've been told are at about 191' deepIt would be a bit of a haul to pull up a well bucket from that depth considering the amount of water each trip would produce. But i will look into it.

I just learned what a pitless adapter is too. Had no idea how that worked below grade. Thanks Mr Glock.
Not sure when your place was built or the existing uninsulated well house, but in February 2011 temps in your area approached -20 degrees.
 

Dumpstick

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My outdoor well house is ~ 4'x4'x4'. We (Mrs and I) rebuilt it a few years ago.
Standard studs, filled with standard fiberglass insulation. Then 1" foam sheets on the inside to further insulate.
Outer covered with tarpaper before sheathing with concrete sheeting.

So, roughly R 15-20 -ish insulation.

The whole thing is heated with a single 60 watt incandescent light bulb (I have a case of extras). I only turn on the light bulb when the temp gets into single digits overnight, or if it will be under 20 for several days.

Can't help with the remaining questions.
 

Mr.Glock

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My outdoor well house is ~ 4'x4'x4'. We (Mrs and I) rebuilt it a few years ago.
Standard studs, filled with standard fiberglass insulation. Then 1" foam sheets on the inside to further insulate.
Outer covered with tarpaper before sheathing with concrete sheeting.

So, roughly R 15-20 -ish insulation.

The whole thing is heated with a single 60 watt incandescent light bulb (I have a case of extras). I only turn on the light bulb when the temp gets into single digits overnight, or if it will be under 20 for several days.

Can't help with the remaining questions.


Save you time and replaces a forgetful memory! This will turn it on for you!



17CDABA7-043B-42AA-BF04-305319742DA0.png
 

Mr.Glock

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Thanks for all the replies, fellas.

I believe I do have the heat tape (looks almost more like an extension cord) on the water line under the mobile. It is then covered with the dark grey pipe insulation then wrapped in what looks like a gorilla tape. There is a plug at the door that the orange tape/cord is plugged into. In that area is where I have the brooder heat lamp like the one in pic below. No actual Heater type of appliance under there. Do you think this is still a major fire hazard under the mobile?

The well house is not insulated but can easily be done and it does have one of those little ceramic heaters in it. Probably be best to get rid of that and put a light bulb in the over head socket that's already there. The two wells on our property are, from what I've been told are at about 191' deepIt would be a bit of a haul to pull up a well bucket from that depth considering the amount of water each trip would produce. But i will look into it.

I just learned what a pitless adapter is too. Had no idea how that worked below grade. Thanks Mr Glock.


On your comment about the well depth and getting water. 191ft isn’t nothing, and especially when your thirsty and need fresh water to live. The buckets will vary in size on average 2-3 gallons of fresh cool water vs drinking nothing but creek water somewhere. Every home with a Water Well needs to be set up with the proper tools to pull the pump/piping out of well to be able to utilize the well in time of need. There are hand pump systems you can install on/in your well that will work manually with your existing pump/piping in the well in place. We recommend these to people that does not have the physical ability to pull their own pump out if need.


And don’t forget about sterilizing the well ever 12 to 16 months. Coliform Bacteria can and will build up in your well and piping system in your home.


https://www.bisonpumps.com/deep-well-hand-pump/
 
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Parks 788

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On your comment about the well depth and getting water. 191ft isn’t nothing, and especially when your thirsty and need fresh water to live. The buckets will vary in size on average 2-3 gallons of fresh cool water vs drinking nothing but creek water somewhere. Every home with a Water Well needs to be set up with the proper tools to pull the pump/piping out of well to be able to utilize the well in time of need. There are hand pump systems you can install on/in your well that will work manually with your existing pump/piping in the well in place. We recommend these to people that does not have the physical ability to pull their own pump out if need.


And don’t forget about sterilizing the well ever 12 to 16 months. Coliform Bacteria can and will build up in your well and piping system in your home.


https://www.bisonpumps.com/deep-well-hand-pump/
Thats great info. Learing something new everyday on this forum. Thanks for the link. I sent in a request for a quote for the standard deep well pump. Need to read up more on what is involved with the installation of one of these Bison hand pumps. Also, I've been in need of finding a reputable water well company that I can have have in my back pocket to call in case I have well issues or need maintenance done. I need to learn much more about what I have on my property too. With my work schedule I have very little available time to do a lot of these types of things currently. Seems like youve been in this industry quite a bit and know your stuff. Can you recommend a reputable well company in the Creek County or surrounding areas that do maintenance or repairs when needed. I'm especially curious about the well sterilization and how to get that done. I'm assuming the prior owners never had it done. Less than a year ago when we bought the property we paid for an extensive water test and all cam back fine but I'm big on maintenace so it's probably time for it to get looked at again. Thanks again for all the helpful info on my questions.
 

Parks 788

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Not sure when your place was built or the existing uninsulated well house, but in February 2011 temps in your area approached -20 degrees.
Ohhhh, fantastic news. Only -20* :D . The well house is only a couple years old and is one of those nicely constructed garden sheds from Tuff Shed. It is one of these in 6'x6' footprint with galv floor joists so i have a good base structure to start with. I've heard from neighbors that when bad weather hits this stretch of Hwy 16 it can get bad and if public utilities need to be restored we are usually the last to get that done. He mentioned a big storm in 2007 this part was without power for about three weeks.

1671464749001.png
 

Timmy59

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Got the water covered from previous comments. Dollar tree, shelf stable milk pick up what you may need. Stuff is good past said date providing it was kept properly.
 

OKRuss

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Save you time and replaces a forgetful memory! This will turn it on for you!



View attachment 330539
We have something similar in our well house on the hunting property. It's pretty small and very well insulated. Added this plug and put a 'milkhouse' heater on it. No easy way to tell if working from here so hoping for the best with the upcoming cold front. Keep heater in the bunkhouse set at 55 with cabinet doors open. https://www.amazon.com/EconoHome-Ad...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
 

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