School me on S&W revolvers

[98pointsix]

I got to fire a couple of S&W revolvers a couple works ago and have been bitten and started shopping. I am one of those guys who likes to know as much as I can about something before I make a purchase. I have been looking around at some oher forums but Im having some trouble flattening the learning curve.
1. pinned vs nonpinned is it a collectors only point of intrest or does it effect pistol function?
2. Why does everyone prefer prelock does the lock effect function or trigger pull or again is it a purist thing?
3. When people refer to nodash models do they mean that the pistol is a base model? or is this refering to something else?
4. Are there anythings that should raise red flags? are there any models that had problems over the years? AKA lemons? I have seen some references to IL serial numbers that had problems I have no clue what this is refering to.


Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks in advance.

 

[TheLastDaze]

I know little to nothing about revolvers, but I do and have owned a few over the years especially S&W.. I think the 'no dash' is simply an earlier run of pre dashes..

3 screw guns are earlier but do they effect ability...?? no idea on that one..more collectible for sure..

I guess if you're gonna own a revolver or collect it, its best to buy/own prelock guns.. more value/collectible..

for some reason i personally wouldn't want a lock gun, i have no idea why i just wouldn't unless i got a screaming deal.. put me in with the masses..

 

[Buzzdraw]

I got to fire a couple of S&W revolvers a couple works ago and have been bitten and started shopping. I am one of those guys who likes to know as much as I can about something before I make a purchase. I have been looking around at some oher forums but Im having some trouble flattening the learning curve.
1. pinned vs nonpinned is it a collectors only point of intrest or does it effect pistol function?
2. Why does everyone prefer prelock does the lock effect function or trigger pull or again is it a purist thing?
3. When people refer to nodash models do they mean that the pistol is a base model? or is this refering to something else?
4. Are there anythings that should raise red flags? are there any models that had problems over the years? AKA lemons? I have seen some references to IL serial numbers that had problems I have no clue what this is refering to.


Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks in advance.

S&W, Colt & Ruger have made many good wheel guns.

There is a S&W collectors forum that's worth some of your time. The FAQ's posted there are helpful. http://smith-wessonforum.com/

Q #1: In theory, pinned barrels may be more accurate. The non-pinned barrels are torqued into place; I have seen some barrel interiors of non-pins that seem to have the interior bore spec's reduced in the area of the frame.

Q #2: The evil lock mechanism may fail rarely(evidence does exist of this happening) locking the revolver "safe" at the worst possible time. Additionally the IL is just plain ugly and unnecessary, if proper gun safety rules are followed.

Q #3: No dash means it is the initial model, not a revised later model. Model numbers (on more recent guns) are marked on the frame under the crane. Examples: Mod 66, Mod 66-2.

Q #4: No "bad" revolvers; a few less than perfect semi-autos.

 

[ldp4570]

1. pinned vs nonpinned is it a collectors only point of intrest or does it effect pistol function?

Pinning was S&W's way of making sure the barrel didn't unscrew while firing. Not really needed, and it was one of the first manufacturing steps dropped.

2. Why does everyone prefer prelock does the lock effect function or trigger pull or again is it a purist thing?

Its not just the lock but all the potmetal parts inside that were changed too, stay away from the locks!!!

3. When people refer to nodash models do they mean that the pistol is a base model? or is this refering to something else?

In the mid '50s S&W started model numbering their revolvers i.e. 10, 15, 14, 17, 29. Everytime there was a manufacturing upgrade the gun would receive a dash next to the model number. The higher dash doesn't mean its better, as some of the mod's were cosmetic.

4. Are there anythings that should raise red flags? are there any models that had problems over the years? AKA lemons? I have seen some references to IL serial numbers that had problems I have no clue what this is refering to.

There were periods when S&W QC sucked on some of their guns, but for the most part, any prelock S&W's should serve you well, and S&W does have a lifetime warranty on all their model numbered guns.
Get yourself a copy of the Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson, and you'll find out everything you wanted to know and more.


Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks in advance.

^^^^^^^^

 

[goodoleboy]

I got to fire a couple of S&W revolvers a couple works ago and have been bitten and started shopping. I am one of those guys who likes to know as much as I can about something before I make a purchase. I have been looking around at some oher forums but Im having some trouble flattening the learning curve.
1. pinned vs nonpinned is it a collectors only point of intrest or does it effect pistol function? No effect on shooting, collectors like them rasing the price,so stay away from them if just looking for a shooter I would not pay a premium for a pinned gun unless I was a S&W collector and owned all the NON pinned guns and had an itch to get a rarer gun.
2. Why does everyone prefer prelock does the lock effect function or trigger pull or again is it a purist thing? As far as quality of the trigger feel.Ive fired Non lock and Lock version of the Lframe 686 and 617 and saw no difference in the trigger Quality/The purist thing I believe has to do with the lock could fail aalso the looks of the lock/hole in the gun from the lock.Many are upset that S&W "sold out" due to fear of lawsuits and call it a "lawyer Lock"
3. When people refer to nodash models do they mean that the pistol is a base model? or is this refering to something else? A no dash is the initital mode made. I think the model 10 which is still in production after almost 80 some years is up to 10-15 or something iin the current version sold today.
4. Are there anythings that should raise red flags? are there any models that had problems over the years? AKA lemons? I have seen some references to IL serial numbers that had problems I have no clue what this is refering to. Just depends on model but with the lifetime warranty S&W offers if you do buy one without researching they should fix any problem free of charge shipping included..I would not hesitate to buy any S&W based on Model alone..Only caution ive read on a certain models are K frame guns chambered in .357..Its said the frames are not Beefy enough to handle regular diets of hot .357 loads..But I shoot mostly .38 in my .357 guns due to costs of ammo so its not concern of mine..


Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks in advance.

Few extra things to watch for.
Round Butt VS. Square butt guns.


I like the looks of a Square butt gun and they no longer make a square butt, as most people prefer the round butt for fitting better (pic differences below)..A Square butt can be converted with gunsmithing to round butt , but not the other way around..They also make facotry grips that give a round butt gun a Square butt look since the Square bottom is no longer made.

Fixed Vs. Adjustable Sights
Also it seems many people are very picky and absolutely hate fixed sights. With S&W fixed sight models you are pretty much stuck with them, so make sure you are not picky about sights for certain models.It can take a second to acquire the front sight on stainless guns, but can be fixed with a dab finger nail polish or black marker and it works great and costs nothing.
Which caliber and what size gun K,L,J frame or models are you interested in?

 

[gerhard1]

There have been a few failures of the IL (Internal Lock), however, I understand that almost all of them have happened on the lighter frame revolvers made of Scandium or other similar alloys and with heavy loads.
I have a number of the later revolvers with the IL and as they are steel-framed, I have never had a problem with an IL failure.
By 'failure', I mean the tendency of the IL to engage (i.e, 'lock up')when you don't want it to, as in a SD or hunting situation.

 

[ldp4570]

As already stated you have several different frame sizes. Not going to get into breaktops, side swinging barrels, and tipups, as I would spend a month on here writing about those.

Your two first frame sizes were the K and N framed guns. The Model 10, or M&P started the ball rolling first produced in 1898, and in one form or another has been in constant production. The N-frame or triple lock as it was first called came out at the beginning of the 20th century. The small J-frames as they are known now were originally produced in the older I-frame pattern in .22lr, .32L, and .38S&W. In 1950 the first Chiefs Special was produced, and except for the length of the cylinder was originally made on the I-frame, and later modified to the J-frame we have today. All other I-framed guns in .22lr, and .32L were also upgraded to the J-frame size.

 

[98pointsix]

Thank you all for the responses this has cleared up alot of my questions. I am looking at K frame 38's. The one that I shot was a police trade in Model 15 and the thing had a very slick action and was very accurate. I have always been a 357 guy but that pistol has really changed my thinking and Im getting older and just dont need a gun that beats the hell outta me. Again thanks for the info Im going to go check out those FAQ's.

 

[Bubber]

Thank you all for the responses this has cleared up alot of my questions. I am looking at K frame 38's. The one that I shot was a police trade in Model 15 and the thing had a very slick action and was very accurate. I have always been a 357 guy but that pistol has really changed my thinking and Im getting older and just dont need a gun that beats the hell outta me. Again thanks for the info Im going to go check out those FAQ's.

One good forum to research is the B. Enos forums. There is a dedicated Revolver forum where much of the stuff has been discussed. These are "opinions" of people learned in the Revo. It is a good place to see the concepts of the Revo in USPSA competitions. There are dedicated IDPA and other competitons forums in the B. Enos forum Here is a link to the Enos Forum if you wish. Brian's Page I hope this would be helpful. later rdd

 

[Buzzdraw]

Thank you all for the responses this has cleared up alot of my questions. I am looking at K frame 38's. The one that I shot was a police trade in Model 15 and the thing had a very slick action and was very accurate. I have always been a 357 guy but that pistol has really changed my thinking and Im getting older and just dont need a gun that beats the hell outta me. Again thanks for the info Im going to go check out those FAQ's.

Don't overlook the L-Frames. They are intended for almost unlimited .357 mag use, so really stout where they need to be. They are lighter and have nicer actions than the N-Frame .357's.

The L-Frame grip is same as K-Frame. L-Frames have been built in both round and square butt. A number of them saw police service, so they are relatively plentiful. They were made in both blued and SS.