Good advice.
I use a biocide as preventative maintenance in all our trucks since since algae stopped our John Deere dead in it's tracks.
Hard to believe a critter can live in fuel.
I use a biocide as preventative maintenance in all our trucks since since algae stopped our John Deere dead in it's tracks.
Hard to believe a critter can live in fuel.
Algae are mostly photosynthetic. I am assuming that diesel does not get much light exposure, therefore I am thinking this algae is actually a bacteria or archaea. I know some folks at OU that work with archaea that corrode the storage tanks of fuel tankers. Bacteria and archaea can use anything as food. Isn't that Nutz!!!
Sorry, I'll stop geeking out in the diesel fuel thread!
All - Thanks for the information. It sounds like an additive to prevent the fuel from gelling is not really needed here in OK. How about using a Cetane booster? I've read that it helps with cold weather starts, fuel economy, smoother idle, and power. Anybody have experience with a Cetane booster?
Thank you for the info. Now I'll call it what it is instead of what it's not.
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We've had the 7.3l, a 6.0l and now a 6.7l with over a 750,000 miles on them combined running Cenex diesel which have additives added in the fuel. Highly recommend if you have a station near by. When we're on the road, I can see the mpg differences when we have to buy fuel elsewhere. We use their off diesel on the farm as well, zero issues. Costs a few cents per gallon more, but worth it IMO.
http://www.cenex.com/fuels/cenex-roadmaster-xl
http://www.cenex.com/fuels/cenex-roadmaster-xl
I run Cenex in my Tractors. Yes, its not cold enough to gel in this neck of the woods. But, I still run it for the benefits it does for the engine.
Yeah, too warm here for gelled fuel.
The best thing you can do for a diesel is make sure it's plugged in when it gets colder (generally around freezing) as the starting is the hardest part of it all on the engine. If you plan to go to a colder area then it would be a good idea to get a couple small battery maintainers and wire them up as well to help with starting. Just get a heavy appliance cord and plug everything into that and then plug it in with one cord, I did this even on gas engines living in Iowa and never had a starting problem in winter due to the battery being cold. The trickle chargers/maintainers will help keep the batteries warm and make sure they always stay topped off.
A side note here also is do not cycle the ignition on a diesel multiple times to check lights or turn on the radio, etc. Each time you do the glow plugs will activate even in summer and without starting it so the batteries can charge you will have a problem.
For the Ford diesel engines you also want to stick to the oil change interval. They use two oil pumps in their engines, one supplies oil to the majority of the engine and is fairly low pressure. The other oil pump supplies very high pressure (450 to 3000 psi) oil to the injectors, needless to say it's hard on the oil and dirty oil going into the injectors can wreak havoc on the engine. I have heard of some people doing long runs and making sure to carry oil and filters so they can make a change on the road so they don't go over mileage.
The best thing you can do for a diesel is make sure it's plugged in when it gets colder (generally around freezing) as the starting is the hardest part of it all on the engine. If you plan to go to a colder area then it would be a good idea to get a couple small battery maintainers and wire them up as well to help with starting. Just get a heavy appliance cord and plug everything into that and then plug it in with one cord, I did this even on gas engines living in Iowa and never had a starting problem in winter due to the battery being cold. The trickle chargers/maintainers will help keep the batteries warm and make sure they always stay topped off.
A side note here also is do not cycle the ignition on a diesel multiple times to check lights or turn on the radio, etc. Each time you do the glow plugs will activate even in summer and without starting it so the batteries can charge you will have a problem.
For the Ford diesel engines you also want to stick to the oil change interval. They use two oil pumps in their engines, one supplies oil to the majority of the engine and is fairly low pressure. The other oil pump supplies very high pressure (450 to 3000 psi) oil to the injectors, needless to say it's hard on the oil and dirty oil going into the injectors can wreak havoc on the engine. I have heard of some people doing long runs and making sure to carry oil and filters so they can make a change on the road so they don't go over mileage.
Algae or microbial, IDK, but it's real. Jet fuel too since it's essentially the same thing. Many parts that contact jet fuel have a special biocide additive to the primer coating, at least Lockheed Martin uses it.
Never knew about the Algae/bacteria/archaea.
After 40 some years running diesel in tractors. Never had a road vehicle running diesel, just ran gassers.
The things you learn on OSA.
After 40 some years running diesel in tractors. Never had a road vehicle running diesel, just ran gassers.
The things you learn on OSA.
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