Best budget scope brand for the money???

[Bocephus123]

Very true. My body count with a Tasco Pronghorn 3-9 on a 1985 Ruger 77 Ultralite 270 win is over 100 animals, and I didn’t know how bad that scope sucked early in the morning and late in the evening until I upgraded.

True when i found Nikon for 100-150 i was overwhelmed

 

[WoodsCraft]

Very true. My body count with a Tasco Pronghorn 3-9 on a 1985 Ruger 77 Ultralite 270 win is over 100 animals, and I didn’t know how bad that scope sucked early in the morning and late in the evening until I upgraded.

I don't disagree with any of the above , light gathering and clarity are what drives my purchasing decisions . I have some rifles with old "good quality scopes" from their era and every time I look through one of them in broad daylight I am impressed with them still , looking through the same scope at dusk or dawn reminds me why I have gravitated to really good quality glass as I have aged. The funny thing is now days there are some decent options in the $300 to $500 range and people will still buy knock off or cloned junk.


I am not talking about made in Asia specifically being bad , but no name garbage and want to compare it to a known quality brand which would have cost the same money . The difference being Burris for example is a better choice than some of the really cheap stuff people seem to want to buy and there are constantly mark down deals on Burris scopes on the web. Right after Christmas I purchased an 8-40 XTR II on Amazon for $519 . That optic normally sells for right at $1000 or close to it.

If you just must have something different for the sake of different Euro Optic recently had clearance deals on some of the USO scopes which were half price or even less than half.

 

[JEVapa]

all from china might as well get a tasco or simmons

I would agree...if you're gonna go Chicom, get a Chicom that's a known entity...I wouldn't waste time on a simmons but a weaver or tasco maybe so, if I was forced to go chicom at gunpoint.

There are plenty of non-Chicom options for $300 and up.

 

[WoodsCraft]

I would agree...if you're gonna go Chicom, get a Chicom that's a known entity...I wouldn't waste time on a simmons but a weaver or tasco maybe so, if I was forced to go chicom at gunpoint.

There are plenty of non-Chicom options for $300 and up.

Yes sir and yet people will still spend that money on the Chicom stuff

 

[JEVapa]

However, I’m open minded enough though to not judge what others use and prefer.

Keep in mind the title of this thread:

"Best budget scope brand for the money???"​

Even though it's redundant ("Best Budget" and "for the Money"), I think it allows for consideration of junk vs not junk and to have some snobbery allowed. He's asking for the best cheapest option (~$300), and all the cheap scopes mentioned are not it.

 

[Jcann]

I copied this from Snipers Hide. It’s useful for those asking about scopes.

Not that this would be a "rule" but more a "guideline" for members when they'd like to ask about what scope is best, I thought it might be good to put forth some bullet points on information that would help others better answer the question.

Help us Help You

Because there are so many different scopes, and each year manufacturers come out with new models and upgrades to existing models, the options are in constant flux, so I understand why we might get similar questions from different folks throughout the year (this community has been great to share advice and experience to help others make those decisions). But when a question is asked that simply states, "I have a 308 and want to know the best scope for it" well, you're going to get a hundred responses that may not fit your specific criteria. So in order for the SH community to better help you, may I be so bold as to make some suggestion for when you are asking the community about what kind of scope would be best for you.

Please consider including the following when asking the SH community what scope we'd recommend for you:

• What is the platform for the scope? (Examples: Rifle (Bolt or Semi-Auto), Pistol (Semi-Auto or Revolver)
• What cartridge are you shooting? (Examples: 22LR, 223, 308, 338 Lapua, etc.)
• What is your intended use for the scope? (Examples: PRS, Benchrest, Hunting, Target, Steel, etc. or any combination thereof)
• What type of conditions will you typically shoot in? (Examples: Daylight, Lowlight, Nighttime, etc. or any combination thereof)
• What are the typical distances you intend to shoot? (Examples: 1000+ yds, 600-1,000 yds, 300-600 yds, 100-300 yds, under 100 yds)
• Are there any specific specifications you would like? (Examples: FFP/SFP, 30mm tube, 50mm objective, focus below 50 yds, low turrets, mil or moa, weight, etc.)
• What is the price range you can afford? (Examples: Under $500, $500-$1000, $1000-$1500, etc.)

And then obviously any other input you would like to provide, but having the above information from the get go will help the community understand more specifically your needs and in return you will receive much better answers sooner.

This is by no means an exhaustive list and I'm sure there are some things I missed so please feel free to reply and add to this. Thank you.

---

Legend

Often times we get carried away with acronyms and end up not understanding what someone is referring to, so here is a quick list of rifle scope acronyms to help out (I'm certain I have missed some so please feel free to respond and I'll add to the list):

• Mil/Mrad = Milradian (1/1000th of 3600 inches. Equal to 3.6 inches at 100 yards, 1 mil is a different size at different distances, 36" at 1,000 yards is also 1 mil)
• MOA = Minute Of Angle (1/60th of a degree. 1 MOA is about 1" per 100 yards. (actually 1.047") 1 MOA is a different size at different distances, 10.47" at 1,000 yards is still just 1 MOA)
• FFP = First Focal Plane (the reticle grows or shrinks in size relative to the magnification of the scope so that a mil or moa is accurate at any given magnification)
• SFP = Second Focal Plane (the reticle stays the same size regardless of magnification so that a mil or moa is only accurate at a specific magnification)
• IQ = Image Quality (often referring to how good the glass is)
• FOV = Field Of View (refers to how wide the image is at bottom and top magnifications measured at 100 yards or meters)
• POI = Point Of Impact (where the bullet strikes the target)
• POA = Point Of Aim (where the sight or reticle is aimed)
• CCW/CW = Counter Clockwise/Clockwise (referring to the direction the turret travels to move the POA up, most scopes in the USA are CCW while most in Europe are CW)
• CA = Chromatic Aberration (also referred to as color fringing or just fringing, this is the phenomenon of different color shifts that are typically seen on edges of high contrast)
• HD = High Density (refers to the type of glass used)
• ED = Extra-low Dispersion (refers to the type of glass used)
• RTZ = Return to Zero (the ability of the scope to return to zero after going through the full range of turret travel)
• LT = Locking Turrets (the ability to lock the turret position and protect against accidental movement)
• CT = Capped Turrets (refers to caps that screw on over the turret for protection - typically found on windage)
• DT/ST = Double Turn/Single Turn (the limit of how many full revolutions the elevation turret can turn)
• ZS/CS = Zero Stop (a locking mechanism that restricts the elevation turret from being turned past 0 when dialing back down - some mfr's allow a few clicks past 0)
• LP = Illuminated and Parallax (typical of Schmidt & Bender to designate an illuminated reticle and parallax control)
• MTC = More Tactical Clicks (typical of Schmidt & Bender for turrets that have a stronger detent every 1 mil of revolution)
• LSW = Left Side Windage (windage turret is located on the left side of the scope)

 

[JEVapa]

I copied this from Snipers Hide. It’s useful for those asking about scopes.

Not that this would be a "rule" but more a "guideline" for members when they'd like to ask about what scope is best, I thought it might be good to put forth some bullet points on information that would help others better answer the question.

Help us Help You

Because there are so many different scopes, and each year manufacturers come out with new models and upgrades to existing models, the options are in constant flux, so I understand why we might get similar questions from different folks throughout the year (this community has been great to share advice and experience to help others make those decisions). But when a question is asked that simply states, "I have a 308 and want to know the best scope for it" well, you're going to get a hundred responses that may not fit your specific criteria. So in order for the SH community to better help you, may I be so bold as to make some suggestion for when you are asking the community about what kind of scope would be best for you.

Please consider including the following when asking the SH community what scope we'd recommend for you:

• What is the platform for the scope? (Examples: Rifle (Bolt or Semi-Auto), Pistol (Semi-Auto or Revolver)
• What cartridge are you shooting? (Examples: 22LR, 223, 308, 338 Lapua, etc.)
• What is your intended use for the scope? (Examples: PRS, Benchrest, Hunting, Target, Steel, etc. or any combination thereof)
• What type of conditions will you typically shoot in? (Examples: Daylight, Lowlight, Nighttime, etc. or any combination thereof)
• What are the typical distances you intend to shoot? (Examples: 1000+ yds, 600-1,000 yds, 300-600 yds, 100-300 yds, under 100 yds)
• Are there any specific specifications you would like? (Examples: FFP/SFP, 30mm tube, 50mm objective, focus below 50 yds, low turrets, mil or moa, weight, etc.)
• What is the price range you can afford? (Examples: Under $500, $500-$1000, $1000-$1500, etc.)

And then obviously any other input you would like to provide, but having the above information from the get go will help the community understand more specifically your needs and in return you will receive much better answers sooner.

This is by no means an exhaustive list and I'm sure there are some things I missed so please feel free to reply and add to this. Thank you.

---

Legend

Often times we get carried away with acronyms and end up not understanding what someone is referring to, so here is a quick list of rifle scope acronyms to help out (I'm certain I have missed some so please feel free to respond and I'll add to the list):

• Mil/Mrad = Milradian (1/1000th of 3600 inches. Equal to 3.6 inches at 100 yards, 1 mil is a different size at different distances, 36" at 1,000 yards is also 1 mil)
• MOA = Minute Of Angle (1/60th of a degree. 1 MOA is about 1" per 100 yards. (actually 1.047") 1 MOA is a different size at different distances, 10.47" at 1,000 yards is still just 1 MOA)
• FFP = First Focal Plane (the reticle grows or shrinks in size relative to the magnification of the scope so that a mil or moa is accurate at any given magnification)
• SFP = Second Focal Plane (the reticle stays the same size regardless of magnification so that a mil or moa is only accurate at a specific magnification)
• IQ = Image Quality (often referring to how good the glass is)
• FOV = Field Of View (refers to how wide the image is at bottom and top magnifications measured at 100 yards or meters)
• POI = Point Of Impact (where the bullet strikes the target)
• POA = Point Of Aim (where the sight or reticle is aimed)
• CCW/CW = Counter Clockwise/Clockwise (referring to the direction the turret travels to move the POA up, most scopes in the USA are CCW while most in Europe are CW)
• CA = Chromatic Aberration (also referred to as color fringing or just fringing, this is the phenomenon of different color shifts that are typically seen on edges of high contrast)
• HD = High Density (refers to the type of glass used)
• ED = Extra-low Dispersion (refers to the type of glass used)
• RTZ = Return to Zero (the ability of the scope to return to zero after going through the full range of turret travel)
• LT = Locking Turrets (the ability to lock the turret position and protect against accidental movement)
• CT = Capped Turrets (refers to caps that screw on over the turret for protection - typically found on windage)
• DT/ST = Double Turn/Single Turn (the limit of how many full revolutions the elevation turret can turn)
• ZS/CS = Zero Stop (a locking mechanism that restricts the elevation turret from being turned past 0 when dialing back down - some mfr's allow a few clicks past 0)
• LP = Illuminated and Parallax (typical of Schmidt & Bender to designate an illuminated reticle and parallax control)
• MTC = More Tactical Clicks (typical of Schmidt & Bender for turrets that have a stronger detent every 1 mil of revolution)
• LSW = Left Side Windage (windage turret is located on the left side of the scope)

As before in almost identical threads, the need for identifying one's requirements are priority.
However, I think we are at the point that these almost identical threads are just trolling to get something going. Literally. I don't even care about giving a legit response any longer.

 

[Bocephus123]

Have several Simmons Aetec for $80 buck like them just as well as my Nikon scopes.

 

[vtxretro02]

I would just challenge someone that is bashing some of the chinese scopes to just try an Arken..true most chinese brands wont hold up ... but the arken scope is much better than its price point … I have several higher end scopes as well .. arkens just work !!!

 

[Jcann]

As before in almost identical threads, the need for identifying one's requirements are priority.
However, I think we are at the point that these almost identical threads are just trolling to get something going. Literally. I don't even care about giving a legit response any longer.

I don’t know if it’s trolling or not but we need more info then, “budget around $300.” If that’s the only requirement, just go buy something and be happy. Just stay away from Simmons, NC STAR, and Barska.