Did you do it as preventive maintenance, or as a response to an engine problem?
Did you do it as preventive maintenance, or as a response to an engine problem?
Maintenance.
I run seafoam in my boat ( twin 502 efi mercruisers) This was recommended by several marine techs. Oreillys has it on sale for $6.99 thru september.
Which manufacturer recommends seafoam? The same ones that recommend trans flushes to? oh wait not one manufacturer recommends the kinda of transmission flush that BG, Wynns, or any other snake oil salesmen pushes. Just because you did it in a factory shop doesnt mean it was recommended by the manufacturer. Dealership shops are some of the worse about pushing BS services that do nothing but take money from the customer.
Mitsubishi. And yes, the FSM's have a section on the recommended maintenance intervals that include Trans flushes.
My toyota Tacoma SR5 has over a quarter million miles on it now, and there has never been any fuel additives added. Most fuel now already has it in the blend.
If one looks at the contents, its Isopropyl Alcohol.
this is a big +1000
OK so when you did these trans flushes what did you add to the trans fluid before the flush? Did mitsubishi have their own chemicals you added or did you use some 3rd party such as BG or Wynns. We do trans flushes where i work but we use no additives or chemicals only new ATF. I think a flush is good in that you exchange nearly 100% of the fluid but we still drop the pan and change the filter after the flush. I had a Wynns salesman tell me you didnt have to change the filter after using their stuff cause it ate all the build up out of the filter and it went out with the flush. My problem with this is how does the chemical know to only attack the friction material in the filter and not rest of the components? guess what he couldnt answer that one. I have been to many factory training classes for several auto makers both here and overseas and everyone I have been to I was told by the instructor that their company does not recomend any type of transmission flush. Granted i have never been to a mitisubishi class so they could do things different
It doesn't take a lot of reasoning to figure out that the "flushes are bogus"
I'm like you...how does a chemical wash away dirt, or minute metal particles?
Like you said,
Snake oil salesmen will sell anything.
I'm like you...how does a chemical wash away dirt, or minute metal particles?
Like you said,
Snake oil salesmen will sell anything.
I am an Amsoil dealer. I could recommend SeaFoam for most of it's INTENDED uses when used as directed. But I've always used Amsoil's Engine Flush (and only once when installing Amsoil in an engine for the 1st time that has some miles on it when I don't know the oil change history) and I use the Amsoil Performance Improver (PI) in my gas. I don't use that every 4000 miles like they say only about every 6000 or so. If you buy only 7-11 and WalMart gas you need to run a cleaner through about like this. If you buy almost exclusively top tier fuels they are rarely if ever needed.
As to transmission flushes the change machines are great, but as said they don't address the filter at all. This is critical, drop the pan and change the filter. The clutches slip when they don't get enough pressure through the valve body. Filter plugging is what causes this pressure drop. And ATF has everything it needs in the bottle with it. No need for Lucas anything IMO. And I've read the test reports. Ditto for engine oil. It has all the additives, detergents, friction modifiers, etc. that are needed and you can actually degrade these by adding the aftermarket additives.
What you need are good quality filters and regular fluid changes.
I have almost 240,000 on my Monte Carlo SS. No transmission changes, valve jobs, or anything. The only thing I've replaced is the catalytic converter and I just had that done recently, and the intake gaskets at about 175K. Everything else has been routine, plugs, wires and such. And it still gets 24 MPG and the tranny shifts as good as did at the first fluid/filter change (at about 60K, I run it about 100K now between changes). I use Amsoil synthetic ATF and WIX filters in the tranny. At the 2nd change it had about 1/3 the amount of dust on the magnets in the pan that it did on the first change when it had the factory fluid. Been that way ever since. I just changed it for the 3rd and most likely the last time before I trade it in.
I change my oil about every 10K to 12K now days but I have ran the premium Amsoil 0W30 synthetic 30K between changes (yes you read that right). But the car gets more in-town stop and go driving now when it used to be almost all hwy miles. I figure it deserves TLC a little more often now anyway.
I use the Amsoil filters and synthetic engine oil. I know that I could yank the intake off and it would have ZERO sludge in the heads and lifter gallery. It didn't have any at all at 175K when I changed the gaskets. The stuff flat works and it's in everything I own.
As to transmission flushes the change machines are great, but as said they don't address the filter at all. This is critical, drop the pan and change the filter. The clutches slip when they don't get enough pressure through the valve body. Filter plugging is what causes this pressure drop. And ATF has everything it needs in the bottle with it. No need for Lucas anything IMO. And I've read the test reports. Ditto for engine oil. It has all the additives, detergents, friction modifiers, etc. that are needed and you can actually degrade these by adding the aftermarket additives.
What you need are good quality filters and regular fluid changes.
I have almost 240,000 on my Monte Carlo SS. No transmission changes, valve jobs, or anything. The only thing I've replaced is the catalytic converter and I just had that done recently, and the intake gaskets at about 175K. Everything else has been routine, plugs, wires and such. And it still gets 24 MPG and the tranny shifts as good as did at the first fluid/filter change (at about 60K, I run it about 100K now between changes). I use Amsoil synthetic ATF and WIX filters in the tranny. At the 2nd change it had about 1/3 the amount of dust on the magnets in the pan that it did on the first change when it had the factory fluid. Been that way ever since. I just changed it for the 3rd and most likely the last time before I trade it in.
I change my oil about every 10K to 12K now days but I have ran the premium Amsoil 0W30 synthetic 30K between changes (yes you read that right). But the car gets more in-town stop and go driving now when it used to be almost all hwy miles. I figure it deserves TLC a little more often now anyway.
I use the Amsoil filters and synthetic engine oil. I know that I could yank the intake off and it would have ZERO sludge in the heads and lifter gallery. It didn't have any at all at 175K when I changed the gaskets. The stuff flat works and it's in everything I own.
