So the moans and groans of home ownership thread, [LINK HERE], got me wondering.....
It'd be interesting to hear all the ideas of how to build a better house. FUNCTIONAL STUFF.
I'm not talking the cosmetic stuff like granite countertops or the fancy light fixtures.
It's necessary for the ladies - but is secondary for this discussion.
If you were in charge to build yourself a house, with the intent of *NO/LITTLE* maintenance - and built to be easily *REPAIRABLE*.
Sure, ICF concrete houses sounds cool, and is tough as nails - but you can't move walls, easily expand the house, or repair it - if needed.
What would you use or how would you plan/design it?
I'll start:
1) Absolutely must have a standing-seam metal roof with No exposed fasteners, a true 50 yr roof. DO NOT use the agricultural metal roofs with exposed fasteners (the fasteners start coming loose after 10-15 years and start leaking). If I recall correctly, I think standing seam is only about 20% more.
2) Heating and Cooling your house is a long-term expense, and I hate spending $200/month when it's not necessary.
I'd sacrifice a little interior square footage, and seriously OVERKILL the insulation R-value. Walls R-50, attic R1million, double/triple thermal breaks in the slab to minimize heat loss.
As for insulation type - I'd go back and forth between closed-cell foam insulation and boring fiberglass insulation. Closed-cell foam insulation (really good, seals air leaks, the closed-cell doesn't absorb water - but is very expensive and PERMANENTLY INSTALLED), The simpler boring fiberglass insulation can be built up extra thick for really high R-value, and it's still easily removable/replaceable - if needed.
3) As for plumbing - If you must run plumbing through the slab - all pipes must be sleeved for easy replacement.
And for me - PEX is the only pipe: flexible, durable, and freeze-resistant (won't break).
When designing the plumbing pipe runs, No pipe fittings hidden inside the walls. The only pipe fittings would be located under the cabinet for easier fitting replacement, if needed. The pipe runs must be continuous run from one location to the next. Then the pipe run continues to the next location. (a sequential run, not a parallel run) If you're smart, plan the pipe run(s) so the last pipe run is near the water closet (like a big circle). This would be good for installing a continuous hot-water circulation pump, - or during the winter you only have to drip the LAST faucet on the pipe circuit to protect all the faucets.
If possible, minimize running any plumbing along exterior walls (reduced freeze risks).
4) NO brick exterior. ...At least for in central Oklahoma, where it's only a matter of time before the house shifts and exterior cracks open up.
I have other ideas, but this is a good start....
What would you do?
Disclaimer: My house belongs in the other thread. : )
It'd be interesting to hear all the ideas of how to build a better house. FUNCTIONAL STUFF.
I'm not talking the cosmetic stuff like granite countertops or the fancy light fixtures.
It's necessary for the ladies - but is secondary for this discussion.
If you were in charge to build yourself a house, with the intent of *NO/LITTLE* maintenance - and built to be easily *REPAIRABLE*.
Sure, ICF concrete houses sounds cool, and is tough as nails - but you can't move walls, easily expand the house, or repair it - if needed.
What would you use or how would you plan/design it?
I'll start:
1) Absolutely must have a standing-seam metal roof with No exposed fasteners, a true 50 yr roof. DO NOT use the agricultural metal roofs with exposed fasteners (the fasteners start coming loose after 10-15 years and start leaking). If I recall correctly, I think standing seam is only about 20% more.
2) Heating and Cooling your house is a long-term expense, and I hate spending $200/month when it's not necessary.
I'd sacrifice a little interior square footage, and seriously OVERKILL the insulation R-value. Walls R-50, attic R1million, double/triple thermal breaks in the slab to minimize heat loss.
As for insulation type - I'd go back and forth between closed-cell foam insulation and boring fiberglass insulation. Closed-cell foam insulation (really good, seals air leaks, the closed-cell doesn't absorb water - but is very expensive and PERMANENTLY INSTALLED), The simpler boring fiberglass insulation can be built up extra thick for really high R-value, and it's still easily removable/replaceable - if needed.
3) As for plumbing - If you must run plumbing through the slab - all pipes must be sleeved for easy replacement.
And for me - PEX is the only pipe: flexible, durable, and freeze-resistant (won't break).
When designing the plumbing pipe runs, No pipe fittings hidden inside the walls. The only pipe fittings would be located under the cabinet for easier fitting replacement, if needed. The pipe runs must be continuous run from one location to the next. Then the pipe run continues to the next location. (a sequential run, not a parallel run) If you're smart, plan the pipe run(s) so the last pipe run is near the water closet (like a big circle). This would be good for installing a continuous hot-water circulation pump, - or during the winter you only have to drip the LAST faucet on the pipe circuit to protect all the faucets.
If possible, minimize running any plumbing along exterior walls (reduced freeze risks).
4) NO brick exterior. ...At least for in central Oklahoma, where it's only a matter of time before the house shifts and exterior cracks open up.
I have other ideas, but this is a good start....
What would you do?
Disclaimer: My house belongs in the other thread. : )