Good mechanics will recommend not using aftermarket cats. It almost always messes up the O2 sensors.
So an update. I power washed the radiator and under the hood (as I have under the engine before) then used my blower to dry everything. I turned the car on and let it sit and then all the sudden my oil light came on and said “low oil pressure, turn off engine”! Then it through a code saying something about the engine knocking and some thing about a sensor. I don’t know if I hit a sensor or something but it wasn’t doing that before. My son just drove over to my sisters and had to pull over because the light came on again. I told him to go ahead and go to my sisters. She only lives about a mile from us. He made it with no other problems. So I about give up.
Well I wasn’t paying $700 for one.
So after looking up some stuff on the internet I bet I hit that switch and it did something to it. I don’t know if it just loosened the wire harness or what. But it’s right down below the alternator next to the oil filter where I was doing alot of washing to get the crud off. I’m gonna mess with it and see if it just came loose. If that doesn’t fix it, I will buy another one. I know it’s kind of pain to change because there ain’t much room but I can do it.
I've never heard of aftermarket cats causing damage to o2 sensors, but they aren't as reliable as OEM cats. I usually just use a spark plug fouler or delete the CEL in the ecu/PCM if it's an older car and cat replacement isn't affordable. HPTuners license for that car is $100 and you can delete the catalyst check engine light. Catalyst inefficiency CEL can also be triggered by a thermostat sticking and not getting up to temp quickly enough. The engine needs to be nice and warm to run efficiently and the secondary o2s need to be 600 degrees or so to work properly.
For the oil pressure switch, it is probably just wet. Pressurized water can push past the electrical plug seals and get stuck. Unplug it and dry off the sensor and plug.
I've never heard of aftermarket cats causing damage to o2 sensors, but they aren't as reliable as OEM cats. I usually just use a spark plug fouler or delete the CEL in the ecu/PCM if it's an older car and cat replacement isn't affordable. HPTuners license for that car is $100 and you can delete the catalyst check engine light. Catalyst inefficiency CEL can also be triggered by a thermostat sticking and not getting up to temp quickly enough. The engine needs to be nice and warm to run efficiently and the secondary o2s need to be 600 degrees or so to work properly.
It’s gotta be water in it. It has never done it before I cleaned around it. My son said the car drove fine other than the light coming on. A friend of mine at work had his cats removed and a pipe welded in place and then had the code deleted by a shop here in town. It eliminated the issues he was having with his converters. I need to have it done. But I know most places won’t do it. Hopefully the place he went to will do it for me as well. Thanks for the information though, I appreciate it. I’m gonna change the thermostat as well and then get my coolant flushed and refilled.
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