couple of opinion's needed

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txnavalaviator

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so i've got a mega sidecharging upper headed my way...

now for the barrel i can't make up my mind do i want to go 14.5" with a pinned flash hider (thinking patriot ordnance's brake) for 16 total or should i go with an 18". both are the same price and same make and stainless steel. not looking to do any real long range work. i've got the m1a for that :). ill probably end up using a YHM lightweight midlength or a Patriot ordance p-9sx. i already have the YHM low pro gas block and for the irons have magpul front and a matech milspec rear. primary's red dot and 3x will be to come.
 

mmchambers06

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Sounds like a sweet build coming together.

...A 14.5" pinned is pretty sweet. Obviously it's a short as you can go and stay legal. 1.5" doesn't sound like a lot but in terms of maneuverability and balance it's noticeable. I wish I had a picture of my 14.5" next to my 16", but here's the shorter one:

ai14.photobucket.com_albums_a320_mmchambers06_P4291266.jpg


I like it a lot. 1.5" doesn't lose you much velocity. Since you have an M1A I'd go shorter.
 

ez bake

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[Broken External Image]

Go with a 16" - its less hassle if you ever want to change a quad-rail or break (assuming that the barrel-nut or quad-rail nut specific to your rail won't fit over your gas-block).

I'm stuck with my setup the way it is (or rather, my son is stuck with his 14.5" setup) unless I want to go back and have the silver-solder removed by a smith (pinned are even harder to deal with) but I can tear my 16" apart and do whatever I want with it because the flash-suppressor is legally removable).
 

txnavalaviator

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ez bake what kind of sling is on that top ar?

with the quality of the parts i'm going to be throwing at this build i can't see myself pulling it apart again. i can see how not being able to change the rail would be a pain. but i don't think i would ever change rails anyways. lol maybe a perm FH would be a fail safe to leave it as is once built.

are stainless steel barrels worth the coin after the hype?
 

ez bake

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ez bake what kind of sling is on that top ar?

with the quality of the parts i'm going to be throwing at this build i can't see myself pulling it apart again. i can see how not being able to change the rail would be a pain. but i don't think i would ever change rails anyways. lol maybe a perm FH would be a fail safe to leave it as is once built.

are stainless steel barrels worth the coin after the hype?

That's a Viking VTAC on top and a Vickers on bottom. The Viking will actually draw up shorter than the Vickers - but I still like the Vickers better (its made out of a lot heavier material and is easier to adjust).

I said that same thing about not taking it apart again due to the quality of parts I used, but I still ended up having to yank it apart a time or two after I got it soldered the first time. Its just not worth the extra weight saved (in my opinion, the only advantage unless you're going to competition shoot with it or are on an entry team kicking in doors).

Keep in mind, if you ever plan on changing the flash-hider (or want to add a can later) you'll have to remove the flash-hider the hard way on a 14.5" barrel - the only reason I did it was because I found this barrel right before the Election scare and didn't want to risk not being able to find another decent barrel without paying an arm/leg for it.

I don't personally have any experience with a stainless AR barrel. I would stick with a chrome-lined carbon-steel barrel from a known good manufacturer if it were me.
 

txnavalaviator

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jeez maybe i should buy some lottery tickets so i can just build two.

and yeah i have tossed around the idea of getting a can but i keep coming to the conclusion that i just cant justify the $ for a can.

here comes the part where maj malfunction needs to pipe in and just tell me to suck it up and get a SBR going

if i need to do some long range work i just need to pull out the m1a anyways.

10.5" barrels are cheaper right :)
 

mmchambers06

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Keep in mind, if you ever plan on changing the flash-hider (or want to add a can later) you'll have to remove the flash-hider the hard way on a 14.5" barrel - the only reason I did it was because I found this barrel right before the Election scare and didn't want to risk not being able to find another decent barrel without paying an arm/leg for it.

There are a couple of awesome rails that work with a standard barrel nut (like my 14.5" pinned above). The DD Omega and the VLTOR CASV (the one in my pic) are two of my favorites. If you start out with a quality free float I can't imagine you ever wanting to replace it...but that's just my opinion.

I personally wouldn't bother with the stainless. It's heavier and doesn't really offer any advantages over a quality chrome-lined pipe (like the outstanding $179 Daniel Defense barrel).
 

Glocktogo

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Well I went with a 14.5" pinned when I recently picked up a Noveske Switchblock upper for my RR Colt. I could have went with any length I wanted but I know the 14.5's are easier on cans than the shotys and it makes for a smoother more reliable action.

Also, if I want to take a class or shoot a match out of state, I can throw this upper on a regular AR lower with no stamp and no ATF notification.

I just had Noveske pin a M4-2000 flash hider on it and I'm done. No way I'm ever swapping out any of the parts on this thing. :)
 

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