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Duracoated suppressor?

Discussion in 'NFA & Class III Discussion' started by Hump66, Jul 28, 2010.

  1. Hump66

    Hump66 Sharpshooter

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    Can it be done? Any ideas on how it holds up to the heat? Is there a better coating to use?
     
  2. mmchambers06

    mmchambers06 Sharpshooter

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    From what I've heard it will burn off if you do any kind of sustained firing.

    You'd be better off with Cerakote, Moly Resin, or another bake on.

    Hell...I'd use grill or engine paint, personally. But I don't care what my stuff looks like.
     
  3. carready

    carready Sharpshooter

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    What about anadizing?
     
  4. 101ABN327

    101ABN327 Sharpshooter

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    I'm thinking of Cerakote. Old Yeller did an AR for me and it turned out NICE! Now I want the can done.

    101

    awww.hunt101.com_data_500_medium_FDE_M4_005.jpg
     
  5. blackknight22

    blackknight22 Sharpshooter

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    Depends on the caliber of can and what type of gun it will be used on. Molycoat does not stand up well to use on 5.56/223 cans when they see even limited auto use.

    Molycoat and such coatings do well on about any other type cans that do not see a lot of use on machine guns- IMHO.

    Anodizing can only be applied to the aluminum tubes and endcaps.
     
  6. Hump66

    Hump66 Sharpshooter

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    It's a 5.56 on a SA for now. Sounds like Cerakote will be the way to go.
     
  7. Rob72

    Rob72 Sharpshooter

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    I haven't used Cerakote, but lauer has Dura Heat rated for 1800*, or about the same as grill paint, but hopefully a bit more abrasion resistant.
     
  8. grwd

    grwd Sharpshooter

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    if it were for a can, Id use something rated for exhaust manifolds.
     
  9. repete34

    repete34 Sharpshooter

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    Duraheat is suppose to be rated for a can
     
  10. Gun$linger

    Gun$linger Sharpshooter

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    What material is your can made of? If the exterior parts are aluminum then I would go w/ anodizing it is cheap, can be dyed any color permanitly, and the oxides that coat the piece are getting up there w/ diamond in hardness. At work I have a small air valve I constantly rebuild on transmisions. It has a aluminum body and a cap in one end held in by a snap ring. The cap is anodized blue and the body is unprotected. If the cap doesnt want to come out you knock it out from the other side, you can really bugger up the body and do no harm to cap itself. The proof is in the pudding.
     

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