Thanks, you put me on the right track. Appears I need a “delay relay” to achieve the desired outcome. It’s a 12V DC circuit going to the bell via an AC to DC converter.
Thanks, you put me on the right track. Appears I need a “delay relay” to achieve the desired outcome. It’s a 12V DC circuit going to the bell via an AC to DC converter.
A/C to D/C is just a simple bridge rectifier. Just don't use house current.
Bridge rectfier
https://www.digikey.com/en/products...eMZGQQTlw1jatb07zsj2agQKlvCIN7PBoC9EcQAvD_BwE
A/C goes into two posts and D/C comes out of two posts. Poof, you're done.
Altronix 6062 timer relay B and H Photo website. Grainger, Electrical houses,
6062 wiring diagrams
For a Chime
https://www.manualsdir.com/manuals/...tallation-instructions.html?page=2&original=1
Ok, I have yet another fire alarm bell, and I’m learning about these things as I go… In this case, the wiring scheme is new to me, with multiple wires going to various parts of the rig. In the pic below, I’ve circled in yellow an item that I find odd. One of the leads goes to one of the incoming power leads, and the other lead is soldered to a black wire that goes up to the underside of the electromagnetic coils, but I have yet to remove the coils to find out exactly where. Before I futz with the layout though, I’d like to know what the item is. It appears to be a capacitor based on the markings (which are the only ones on this item), but I can’t see why the alarm would need one. I get “OL” on a multimeter when trying to measure resistance between the two leads coming out of the item. Anyone have any tips on what it is?
That is a condenser. It goes inline with a battery powered bell source.
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Hook it up straight to a phone line and see if it rings. Otherwise get a ring generator that outputs the needed voltage (~90v) @ 25-30hz).
Capacitor placement is simple. It creates a resonant circuit with the coils and causes the ringer to resonate at the particular ring frequency (~20-40hz). It also blocks the 48vdc talk battery voltage to the ringer while passing the AC ring voltage (~90vac). If the cap is open it simply won't ring.
Thanks for the advice, folks. I’m learning a lot about how these alarm bells work!
I have a new-to-me bell; this one has a tag that says 24V, .38 amps, and when I look inside the housing, there’s a single big-butt electromagnet with a striker nested in the center. I don’t see any converters or capacitors, so I’m assuming this one runs on DC. However, when I hook it up to the DC variable power supply and dial in 24V and 1 amp, the striker retreats into the EM and stops. When I cut the power, the striker is released and emerges slightly. I can pull it out some more, but when power is applied, it retreats.
Wouldn’t that be a sign of AC power such that the striker is alternately pushed and pulled? I didn’t want to just plug in an AC cord before asking here, as I don’t care to see lots of sparks, smoke, and fire
Pics below.
I have a new-to-me bell; this one has a tag that says 24V, .38 amps, and when I look inside the housing, there’s a single big-butt electromagnet with a striker nested in the center. I don’t see any converters or capacitors, so I’m assuming this one runs on DC. However, when I hook it up to the DC variable power supply and dial in 24V and 1 amp, the striker retreats into the EM and stops. When I cut the power, the striker is released and emerges slightly. I can pull it out some more, but when power is applied, it retreats.
Wouldn’t that be a sign of AC power such that the striker is alternately pushed and pulled? I didn’t want to just plug in an AC cord before asking here, as I don’t care to see lots of sparks, smoke, and fire
Pics below.
It says right on the cover 60 cycle (24v)
Yes, but AC or DC? If AC, it would need a step-down from 110 VAC to 24?
DC does not have a cycle (or frequency), only AC. You will need a ~24v power supply or a step-down transformer. Like some doorbell transformers.
