Good article. I've not put away any soap, but probably should.
http://americanpreppersnetwork.com/2013/02/a-preppers-guide-to-soap.html
http://americanpreppersnetwork.com/2013/02/a-preppers-guide-to-soap.html
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Grandma's Homemade Lye Soap Recipe
There are numerous recipes for homemade lye soap. Below is a very basic one that is easy to use for any beginner.
Basic items needed to make your own soap: 4-6 quart Pyrex or oven ware bowl with handle and a spout. 4-6 quart glass, stoneware crock, stainless steel or iron cooking pot. A long handled heavy duty wooden or stainless steel spoon for stirring the mixture. Rubber gloves. Eye Safety glasses. Small, shallow cardboard or wooden box lined with a plastic trash bag.
Ingredients:
One 12 oz. can of 100% lye
21-1/2 oz. ice cold or partially frozen distilled water
5 lb., 7-1/3 oz. (2.48 kg) lard or all vegetable shortening.
Directions:
Place the water and or ice cubes into the bowl, carefully add the lye to the water. Do not reverse this process. Using your stirring spoon stir carefully till the lye has dissolved. Cover and let set until it drops in temperature to around 85 degrees.
Melt your lard and put into the 4-6 quart container; let cool to 95 degrees. Now you can start to make your soap.
With your stirring spoon, start to stir in an "8" pattern. Slowly pour the lye water into the melted lard. Pour very carefully and slowly, making the flow of the lye water smaller than a pencil...just trickle it in until its all been added. Once you start this process you must keep stirring until the mix is thick like a cooked pudding. If you stop stirring it may separate. The key is constant gentle stirring.
When the mix has thickened up you can then pour it into your lined box. Allow to set for 4-6 hours. Using a table knife you can cut into bars. Do not use a sharp knife that will cut into the plastic liner. Allow a week for drying time before you remove the soap from the box. After the soap is removed from the box, allow the soap to cure for 30 days before using it.
How to Make Lye from Scratch
So, you're wondering what's involved in making lye from scratch? Here's a quick rundown of what you'll need to make it work.
Please, remember to take all the normal precautions when working with lye. This goes doubly for making lye - since you'll be moving around unknown concentrations of lye.
Equipment Needed for Lye Making:
· A large, non-reactive container. Water will pass through ashes and straw in this container, to leech the lye from the ashes. Good options include a waterproof wooden barrel or a heavy-duty plastic bucket. No aluminum, please, as lye reacts with aluminum. We will call this the "lye making container".
· Two more non-reactive, lye-proof containers. These will catch the lye as it drips out of the lye making container.
· Rocks or gravel
· Straw or Hay. The straw acts like a filter. It lets the lye-water pass through, while stopping the ash.
· Hardwood ashes. These must be hardwood ashes, not soft woods, or you won't get usable lye. The ashes should be completely cool before using.
· Soft water. This could be rain water, distilled water, or water from a dehumidifier. Tap water will work fine if you have soft water. Hard water (water with a high mineral content, making it difficult to work up a lather with soap or shampoo) won't work.
Steps to Make Lye:
Make sure your lye-making container is:
· Lye-proof and non-reactive.
· Clean.
· Water-proof with no leaks.
· Drill small holes in the bottom of the container, like those in flowerpots, that will allow the lye water to drain out.
· Place a layer of rocks (1-2 inches) on the bottom of your container. This will prevent the straw (to be added) from clogging the holes.
· Place a thick layer of straw on top of the rocks. The straw will act as a filter, allowing the lye to pass through, but blocking the ash. Remember, the lye will eat away at the straw, so it needs to be replaced every time you make a new batch of lye. Use gloves to avoid coming in contact with lye on the straw!
· Fill the rest of the container with ash, leaving an inch or two of clearance at the top.
· Next comes the tricky part. You need to find something that will hold the lye container up, off of the ground so that the water drips out of the bottom. It MUST be stable - lye is dangerous, you do not want to risk it tipping over!
· Once your lye container is raised and stable, place one of your alternate containers under the lye container, so that it will catch all of the lye water that drips out of the bottom.
· Slowly and with great care, pour the water over the ashes. The water will drip through the ashes, through the straw, through the rocks, and eventually, out of the holes at the bottom of the container and into the second container. It should be a reddish-brown.
· When the dripping stops, you'll want to remove the container that now contains fresh lye-water, and place the second container under the lye making system. This will catch any stray drips.
· After one pass, the lye-water is likely not strong enough for soap-making. You'll probably need to repeat the process at least two more times, or more. With the empty bucket under the lye making container, slowly and carefully (very carefully!) pour the lye-water back over the ashes.
· Repeat the process of switching the containers and pouring the water over the ashes several times.
· You can test the strength of the lye-water by dropping an egg in it. If the egg nearly floats (a tiny amount should just peek out over the surface of the lye-water, about the size of a quarter) - then the lye-water is ready to use.
· If the lye-water is too strong (the egg floats much higher than described), you can "water it down" by adding a small amount of plain, soft water. If the lye-water is too weak, you can continue to run it through the lye making container several times over the course of a few days. If that doesn't work, you may have used too much water for the amount of ashes you had... if you can clean out the system and reset it with new ashes, you can run the water through those to strengthen it. Or, some people suggest you can boil off some of the water in the lye-water solution, and strengthen it like that.
If you attempt to boil off the water, please be careful. Be sure to use a lye-proof pot that you will NOT use again for food.
After you've gone through this, you should have a strong enough batch of lye to make your own soap.
There are numerous recipes for homemade lye soap. Below is a very basic one that is easy to use for any beginner.
Basic items needed to make your own soap: 4-6 quart Pyrex or oven ware bowl with handle and a spout. 4-6 quart glass, stoneware crock, stainless steel or iron cooking pot. A long handled heavy duty wooden or stainless steel spoon for stirring the mixture. Rubber gloves. Eye Safety glasses. Small, shallow cardboard or wooden box lined with a plastic trash bag.
Ingredients:
One 12 oz. can of 100% lye
21-1/2 oz. ice cold or partially frozen distilled water
5 lb., 7-1/3 oz. (2.48 kg) lard or all vegetable shortening.
Directions:
Place the water and or ice cubes into the bowl, carefully add the lye to the water. Do not reverse this process. Using your stirring spoon stir carefully till the lye has dissolved. Cover and let set until it drops in temperature to around 85 degrees.
Melt your lard and put into the 4-6 quart container; let cool to 95 degrees. Now you can start to make your soap.
With your stirring spoon, start to stir in an "8" pattern. Slowly pour the lye water into the melted lard. Pour very carefully and slowly, making the flow of the lye water smaller than a pencil...just trickle it in until its all been added. Once you start this process you must keep stirring until the mix is thick like a cooked pudding. If you stop stirring it may separate. The key is constant gentle stirring.
When the mix has thickened up you can then pour it into your lined box. Allow to set for 4-6 hours. Using a table knife you can cut into bars. Do not use a sharp knife that will cut into the plastic liner. Allow a week for drying time before you remove the soap from the box. After the soap is removed from the box, allow the soap to cure for 30 days before using it.
How to Make Lye from Scratch
So, you're wondering what's involved in making lye from scratch? Here's a quick rundown of what you'll need to make it work.
Please, remember to take all the normal precautions when working with lye. This goes doubly for making lye - since you'll be moving around unknown concentrations of lye.
Equipment Needed for Lye Making:
· A large, non-reactive container. Water will pass through ashes and straw in this container, to leech the lye from the ashes. Good options include a waterproof wooden barrel or a heavy-duty plastic bucket. No aluminum, please, as lye reacts with aluminum. We will call this the "lye making container".
· Two more non-reactive, lye-proof containers. These will catch the lye as it drips out of the lye making container.
· Rocks or gravel
· Straw or Hay. The straw acts like a filter. It lets the lye-water pass through, while stopping the ash.
· Hardwood ashes. These must be hardwood ashes, not soft woods, or you won't get usable lye. The ashes should be completely cool before using.
· Soft water. This could be rain water, distilled water, or water from a dehumidifier. Tap water will work fine if you have soft water. Hard water (water with a high mineral content, making it difficult to work up a lather with soap or shampoo) won't work.
Steps to Make Lye:
Make sure your lye-making container is:
· Lye-proof and non-reactive.
· Clean.
· Water-proof with no leaks.
· Drill small holes in the bottom of the container, like those in flowerpots, that will allow the lye water to drain out.
· Place a layer of rocks (1-2 inches) on the bottom of your container. This will prevent the straw (to be added) from clogging the holes.
· Place a thick layer of straw on top of the rocks. The straw will act as a filter, allowing the lye to pass through, but blocking the ash. Remember, the lye will eat away at the straw, so it needs to be replaced every time you make a new batch of lye. Use gloves to avoid coming in contact with lye on the straw!
· Fill the rest of the container with ash, leaving an inch or two of clearance at the top.
· Next comes the tricky part. You need to find something that will hold the lye container up, off of the ground so that the water drips out of the bottom. It MUST be stable - lye is dangerous, you do not want to risk it tipping over!
· Once your lye container is raised and stable, place one of your alternate containers under the lye container, so that it will catch all of the lye water that drips out of the bottom.
· Slowly and with great care, pour the water over the ashes. The water will drip through the ashes, through the straw, through the rocks, and eventually, out of the holes at the bottom of the container and into the second container. It should be a reddish-brown.
· When the dripping stops, you'll want to remove the container that now contains fresh lye-water, and place the second container under the lye making system. This will catch any stray drips.
· After one pass, the lye-water is likely not strong enough for soap-making. You'll probably need to repeat the process at least two more times, or more. With the empty bucket under the lye making container, slowly and carefully (very carefully!) pour the lye-water back over the ashes.
· Repeat the process of switching the containers and pouring the water over the ashes several times.
· You can test the strength of the lye-water by dropping an egg in it. If the egg nearly floats (a tiny amount should just peek out over the surface of the lye-water, about the size of a quarter) - then the lye-water is ready to use.
· If the lye-water is too strong (the egg floats much higher than described), you can "water it down" by adding a small amount of plain, soft water. If the lye-water is too weak, you can continue to run it through the lye making container several times over the course of a few days. If that doesn't work, you may have used too much water for the amount of ashes you had... if you can clean out the system and reset it with new ashes, you can run the water through those to strengthen it. Or, some people suggest you can boil off some of the water in the lye-water solution, and strengthen it like that.
If you attempt to boil off the water, please be careful. Be sure to use a lye-proof pot that you will NOT use again for food.
After you've gone through this, you should have a strong enough batch of lye to make your own soap.
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Homemade Detergents
Homemade Laundry Soap
• 4 cups of water.
• 1/3 bar of cheap soap, grated.
• 1/2 cup washing soda (not baking soda).
• 1/2 cup of Borax (20 Mule Team).
• 5-gallon bucket for mixing.
• 3 gallons of water.
First, mix the grated soap in a saucepan with 4 cups of water, and heat on low until the soap is completely dissolved. Add hot water/soap mixture to 3 gallons of water in the 5-gallon bucket, stir in the washing soda and Borax, and continue stirring until thickened. Let the mix sit for 24 hours, and voila! Homemade laundry detergent.
Dishwasher Detergent
Recipe #1:
1 cup Borax*
1 cup Baking Soda
1/4 cup Salt
2 packets (half an ounce) unsweetened lemon Kool-Aid
Directions: Mix all ingredients together.
Recipe #2:
2 bars shredded Octagon Soap
1 cup Baking Soda
1/4 cup Washing Soda**
1/4 cup Lemon Juice
Directions: Dissolve soap in 5 quarts of hot water. Mix in other ingredients and let stand 24 hrs.
Laundry Detergent
4 cups Water
1/2 bar cheap Soap, grated***
1/2 cup Washing Soda**
1/2 cup Borax*
5-gallon bucket, for mixing
3 gallons of Water
Directions: Dissolve soap in 4 cups of hot water. Add hot soapy water to 3 gallons of water in 5-gallon bucket, stir in Washing Soda and Borax. Continue stirring until thickened. Let stand 24 hours.
* 20 Mule Team brand or similar
** This is NOT Baking Soda
*** Pels-Naptha Soap is used as a laundry stain pretreater, would work well here (no longer contains naphtha)
Homemade Laundry Soap
• 4 cups of water.
• 1/3 bar of cheap soap, grated.
• 1/2 cup washing soda (not baking soda).
• 1/2 cup of Borax (20 Mule Team).
• 5-gallon bucket for mixing.
• 3 gallons of water.
First, mix the grated soap in a saucepan with 4 cups of water, and heat on low until the soap is completely dissolved. Add hot water/soap mixture to 3 gallons of water in the 5-gallon bucket, stir in the washing soda and Borax, and continue stirring until thickened. Let the mix sit for 24 hours, and voila! Homemade laundry detergent.
Dishwasher Detergent
Recipe #1:
1 cup Borax*
1 cup Baking Soda
1/4 cup Salt
2 packets (half an ounce) unsweetened lemon Kool-Aid
Directions: Mix all ingredients together.
Recipe #2:
2 bars shredded Octagon Soap
1 cup Baking Soda
1/4 cup Washing Soda**
1/4 cup Lemon Juice
Directions: Dissolve soap in 5 quarts of hot water. Mix in other ingredients and let stand 24 hrs.
Laundry Detergent
4 cups Water
1/2 bar cheap Soap, grated***
1/2 cup Washing Soda**
1/2 cup Borax*
5-gallon bucket, for mixing
3 gallons of Water
Directions: Dissolve soap in 4 cups of hot water. Add hot soapy water to 3 gallons of water in 5-gallon bucket, stir in Washing Soda and Borax. Continue stirring until thickened. Let stand 24 hours.
* 20 Mule Team brand or similar
** This is NOT Baking Soda
*** Pels-Naptha Soap is used as a laundry stain pretreater, would work well here (no longer contains naphtha)
I use this recipe. It works amazing for cloth diapers!
http://www.budget101.com/myo-household-items/whipped-cream-super-laundry-soap-3993.html
http://www.budget101.com/myo-household-items/whipped-cream-super-laundry-soap-3993.html
Or the fat rendered from dead animals. My great grandparents made it from hog lard.
I love lye soap. I used to have a big issue with poison ivy when a kid. The old country Doctor that was at our Boy Scout camp in Cleveland Okla said if exposed to it, to take a bath with lye soap.
I think any soap within a short period of time would do the same thing, but to this day I have bars of lye soap that I shower with when working clearing brush and working around the evil weed. We buy it at Ace Hardware in Ponca, or pick some up at craft fairs. (my wife does, I don't go there) Can't be too carefull!
suuuuurrrrreeeee, you are always disappointed at gun shows when there aren't any crafty tables aren't you ;-)
There is no such thing these shows do not exist.
I don't go to gun shows. Well, the Wannamaker, and haven't been there in several years. Used to get some fair deals at them, but not any more.
Plus, they have the spring and fall scheduled on the opening days of turkey season in the spring and Muzzle loader season in the fall.
I'm out "prepping" some wild game for the freezer at those times.
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