Lubrication to the Nth degree

[Shadowrider]

I have a bunch of experience with ASTM B117 salt fog testing of various metals in the aerospace industry. That guy did put some effort in, but he doesn't really give any details. When he said he added salt to speed up the process, how much did he add? Some of those other guys on youtube do the same and add so dang much they make the whole test meaningless because it takes to to an extreme that just doesn't mimic anything one would find in the real world. Chlorides (salt) are all kinds of bad on metal with a couple different chemical mechanisms for the damage they inflict and if just done willy nilly you don't learn a thing. The standard is a 5% sodium chloride concentration and it will utterly destroy most any finish is just a couple days if it's not perfect. It seriously will jack things up, so take these "tests" with a big dose of salt!

 

[NikatKimber]

I have a bunch of experience with ASTM B117 salt fog testing of various metals in the aerospace industry. That guy did put some effort in, but he doesn't really give any details. When he said he added salt to speed up the process, how much did he add? Some of those other guys on youtube do the same and add so dang much they make the whole test meaningless because it takes to to an extreme that just doesn't mimic anything one would find in the real world. Chlorides (salt) are all kinds of bad on metal with a couple different chemical mechanisms for the damage they inflict and if just done willy nilly you don't learn a thing. The standard is a 5% sodium chloride concentration and it will utterly destroy most any finish is just a couple days if it's not perfect. It seriously will jack things up, so take these "tests" with a big dose of salt!

The cool thing he did do, was three different exposure tests. The first used the salt mist, the second did not, the third was indoors with the hot-dog "fingerprint". So he somewhat covered what you mention.

 

[Shadowrider]

The cool thing he did do, was three different exposure tests. The first used the salt mist, the second did not, the third was indoors with the hot-dog "fingerprint". So he somewhat covered what you mention.

Okay I will correct my previous post since I actually read the link. I was thinking I had already seen it, but actually had a different one in mind that I had already seen.

He actually does say how much salt he used and it calculates out very close to sea water, so kudos to him. But he should have used distilled or DI water to mix for that test though.

And he's still just flat wrong on why he doesn't think a salt fog cabinet isn't a good test but the rest is actually pretty good. He states that cross contamination from recycling the solution is why. Salt fog cabinets don't recycle, if they do the test is screwed and you'd clog up the fog head in short order with oxides and other contaminates. Also he was worried about handling the sample which is good. But you ignore any indications within 1/4" of an edge. That just a big safety margin for solution gathering due to surface tension and handling. But overall he did pretty dang good for a real world test.

I noticed his final results were pretty close to mine. It's always good to have that happen. I still use Frog Lube paste for corrosion protection using the "seasoning" method to apply, but I have quit using it for lubrication since it tried to glue the guts on my Benelli Vinci together. It gets downright sticky over time. I'm pretty sure it's an organic wax of some sort.

 

[NikatKimber]

Okay I will correct my previous post since I actually read the link. I was thinking I had already seen it, but actually had a different one in mind that I had already seen.

He actually does say how much salt he used and it calculates out very close to sea water, so kudos to him. But he should have used distilled or DI water to mix for that test though.

And he's still just flat wrong on why he doesn't think a salt fog cabinet isn't a good test but the rest is actually pretty good. He states that cross contamination from recycling the solution is why. Salt fog cabinets don't recycle, if they do the test is screwed and you'd clog up the fog head in short order with oxides and other contaminates. Also he was worried about handling the sample which is good. But you ignore any indications within 1/4" of an edge. That just a big safety margin for solution gathering due to surface tension and handling. But overall he did pretty dang good for a real world test.

I noticed his final results were pretty close to mine. It's always good to have that happen. I still use Frog Lube paste for corrosion protection using the "seasoning" method to apply, but I have quit using it for lubrication since it tried to glue the guts on my Benelli Vinci together. It gets downright sticky over time. I'm pretty sure it's an organic wax of some sort.

I was glad to see he used a high quality motor oil in his test. Just for a comparison, as that's what I've been using as a lube lately. I'm seriously thinking about getting some of each of the top performers - Hornady 1-Shot, FrogLube, and WD-40 Special. I'm don't need a "do-all" item. I'm ok with using different solutions for different tasks.

 

[Shadowrider]

I was glad to see he used a high quality motor oil in his test. Just for a comparison, as that's what I've been using as a lube lately. I'm seriously thinking about getting some of each of the top performers - Hornady 1-Shot, FrogLube, and WD-40 Special. I'm don't need a "do-all" item. I'm ok with using different solutions for different tasks.

Me too. And I haven't found one that does everything well anyway.

Here's a tip. Stay with SL rated motor oils. They have much higher levels of ZDDP in them than the new SN rated oils which have almost none. ZDDP is the additive that gives EP wear resistance and it's a good anti-oxidant (think rust protection) too. We can thank the EPA for this.

 

[dennishoddy]

Me too. And I haven't found one that does everything well anyway.

Here's a tip. Stay with SL rated motor oils. They have much higher levels of ZDDP in them than the new SN rated oils which have almost none. ZDDP is the additive that gives EP wear resistance and it's a good anti-oxidant (think rust protection) too. We can thank the EPA for this.

What brands/viscosity?

Did anybody test the SC (diesel engine) specs?

 

[swampratt]

ZDDP is not a good rust protector. at least in my testing on bare polished steel left to the elements.
I used ZDDP Plus and Mobil synthetic and ATF in my testing with some other products tested and those in the
above mentioned failed first and really quick.
The ZDDP plus. This is an additive.

Get some bare steel and do some tests it is not hard to do..

 

[Jango8753]

Awesome article!

 

[swampratt]

H&H has frog lube for all that need to try it

 

[Coded-Dude]

Look slike the WD-40 specialist he was using was the rust inhibitor(not sure how it would hold up in metal to metal applications). I use the White Lithium Grease(which is better for metal to metal and still protects well). I also use CLP and Mobile when/where needed.