Well you just send that 686 on down here, I wouldn't want you to suffer with this issue between the two!!
the 686 is the cream of the two, but if you are more of a utility rather than cosmetic kind of guy (like me) then that GP is probably the gun for you..I like them a lot. And if you like flirting with danger when reloading and like ammo somewhere nearer the max load +, then the gp100 is gonna be more forgiving for this.
Same argument with a redhawk or a model 29. No doubt the smith is prettier, MUCH nicer trigger and overall weapon, but investment is sever for a smith, and you will have a tough time tearing up a ruger.
Same argument with a redhawk or a model 29. No doubt the smith is prettier, MUCH nicer trigger and overall weapon, but investment is sever for a smith, and you will have a tough time tearing up a ruger.
I disagree that the GP is any stronger than the 686. The strength arguments surfaced in relation to the K-frame guns. The L-frame guns were designed to alleviate this concern. The sheer bulk of the GP is not a true indicator of strength, its mostly a byproduct of the production method.
I agree with you 100%. The investment castings Ruger uses are not the stronger alloy, simply what fits the production system. They've had a few cracked receivers on some guns.
I heard of people shoot many thousands of heavy .357M in L frames with no ill effects. I can't say the same for a K frame .357 I had once (M-19) The L was designed for heavy use and from what I hear on the S&W forums it can take it.
It is better looking than the Ruger IMHO.
the L-frame S&W revolvers were designed and marketed to compete with the COLT PYTHON,give it a good trigger & action job by a gunsmith that knows their stuff and you got a really great gun at half the cost of a python,yes the L guns are stronger than a K frame, but for a lot of heavy loads,i would rather put them through my GP100,you can bet that python owners dont subject their colts with a heavy diet of hot loads.and if i spent a lot of money upgrading my L-frame,i wouldnt be shooting cases of hot ammo throught it just to see how well it holds up,of just for the fun of it.different guns for different purposes.oh & FYI dont shoot a lot of 38 through your 357,some guy did this in a 6 inch python, informal shooting matches,200 rounds a month for 3 years,then went hunting with it using 357 ammo, two quick rounds put the deer down, went to unload gun, live ammo fell right out but the 2 empties had to be hammered out!! all that 38 shooting did flame erosion in the cylinder,and then 357 ammo was fired in it and expanded in to the 1/10 inch that was flame eroded, and left rough imprint on cases,making it hard to eject fired 357 cases.so now he owns a very accurate 38 python.if you shoot a whole lot of 38 then use a 38 not a 357.some people use a accurate 6 inch 38 for small game hunting instead of 22, they got tired of seeing game jump up and run off after being hit with 22, doesnt happen with a 38 158gr wadcutter at 800fps.
Sell them both and get a Python.
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