Suggestions on looking for a motor...

[tRidiot]

So, I've posted here before, my Tahoe needs some motor work.

Top-half rebuild at the least, from what my mechanic tells me. Coupla grand total.

The type of heads I have are notorious for this slow leak of coolant into the oil. Been going on a few years now. I've been putting it off, just keep topping up the coolant.

So one of my buddies with a big shop is working on a Jeep rebuild he's doing, he's a much more knowledgeable mechanically-inclined guy than I am. I've done valve cover gaskets, water pump replacements, etc. Fairly easy stuff. Did a brake job with one of my buddies years ago. Did tear down my old Supra and replaced the timing belt with an ex-g/f's dad, he was a machinist in the Navy.

So I can turn a wrench, take direction, and could follow YouTube videos, and I'm pretty sure my buddy and me can pull off a motor swap, instead of just doing the top-half rebuild, which I've been cautioned will eventually lead to lower-half problems.

I'd love to put a whole new crate motor in. But it's 2020, the year of COVID, I'm currently making less than 25% of what I did 3-4 years ago. I currently make less than a lot of 2 year nurses out there. It's killing us. So a crate motor is probably out of the question.

So how does one go about evaluating a "salvage" motor, nearly all of which are close to or over 200k miles? My current motor is at 267k. Do you just pick a low-mileage one and plan on rebuilding it? If that's the case, why wouldn't I just pull mine and totally rebuild it (with new/replacement heads)?

Do I just search salvage sites and throw a dart at a motor that looks good? They're all listed as "runs good". Ok, great.

So does mine right now...

<Edit> Hell, I'd love to swap the transmission at the same time, as I'm sure that's next to go out on my Tahoe (2004), but used/salvage transmissions make me even MORE nervous than used motors, and rebuilt.... well... that's probably going to put it out of my pricerange - which is as cheap as my ass can get away with.

 

[tyromeo55]

At that mileage I’d have someone look at the truck and make sure the body and frame are not trash. If I got a green light on those things I’d look at a late model LS swap with tranny

 

[SlugSlinger]

What motor is it? I’ll ask a buddy of mine for a quote to rebuild your current motor and the best direction to go.
He owns a machine shop in Catoosa and I’ve know him most of my life.

 

[StitchJones]

267k miles?

I'd trade it in before it turns into a money pit.

 

[Glock 40]

Salvage motors normally have a compression check on them and that's about it. A leak down is a better choice as to health of an engine. Still at 200k your wasting money on a salvage engine imo. They will sometimes offer a very short warranty or basically that it wont knock. The problem is you are out your time of putting them in and taking them out if its bad. A motor swap can be done with a cherry picker and not a lot of tools just time and fluids basically.

If your going to pull your current engine and take on a rebuild it can be done but you will need a full rebuild kit an engine stand, torque wrench and a pile of time. Then you have to send off the engine and have it machined. Along with getting yourself a set of rebuilt heads that are not leaking castechs. Thats not going to be a cheap venture in itself. You are really getting to the point where you have to decide how much money you want to sink into that vehicle.

As for the tranny its probably coming on needing a rebuild at some point soon. Best bet is to use a reputable re-builder and be done with it. I haven't priced any of this stuff in a while but your in the thousands either way. Its probably not worth 2k in trade value. I would just keep driving it adding some dexcool as needed and when the engine goes or tranny then put it on CL for $500 and have someone haul it off.

The other thing to think about with a vehicle this age is everything starts breaking. So at some point the hvac compressor blows. There is $1000-1200 bucks. Your front or rear diff goes out break out another grand. Need front wheel bearings $600 and on and on. This thing can eat you alive.

 

[StitchJones]

https://www.steveschmidtracing.com/racing-engines/forced-induction/big-block-chevy/588-twin-turbo

Or this.


J/k

 

[xseler]

......or, you could do this to get more miles outa the setup you've got.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...ks&gclid=CL3jppH-0uoCFaGsZQodYvAAEg&gclsrc=ds

Some may scoff, but many folks have gotten a lot of additional miles for very little cash outlay. To do the process correctly, it'll take the better part of an afternoon, and it'll be messy. A messy afternoon in the exchange of $2500 minimum might be a great compromise.

Best of luck in whatever you decide!


.

 

[tRidiot]

I don't want to take on a payment. I pay way too much just to survive every day. The truck runs, yes, it has little things wrong. But I also have my Z I can drive to work and back if it goes down.

I realize I'm not going to get much out of it, it's not worth dropping 5 grand into, I get all that. But I've also got 7 more years of student loans and business loan payments on my current plan. All while trying to contribute something to retirement and saving for my kid's college. Picking up $500/month or more in payments isn't a great idea. And my wife's truck isn't going to last forever, either, it's 14 years old. So we have to think about all that.

I've also done over $10k worth of customization on it, and I still like it. Hell, I've actually dropped probably $20k on top of my purchase price. I get that it's not worth that to anyone else. No worries.

Thanks for the advice, fellas.

Oh, and Dan, it's a 5.3L, I think the code is LM7?

<edit> And I forgot to add... I kinda thought hanging out with my buddy and doing a motor swap and/or rebuild in his shop (when the weather cools a bit) might be kinda fun. And I'd learn a few things, just like I did with @SlugSlinger when he helped me do my suspension and lift - or rather, when I watched HIM do it FOR me and handed him tools! lol

Thanks yet again, Dan!

<edit2> And I think the body and frame are pretty good, we got plenty of time on his lift working on it. So that part is at least fairly solid.

 

[918evo]

LKQ in Topeka has an L33 with 91K miles for 1605 plus shipping(I would guess 150-200 to a business). L33 would yield 15 extra hp and is lighter.

 

[Mack45]

All things considered, I think I would just keep putting coolant in it. Maybe in a few months or so things will be better for the major repairs.