i use lee decapper and basee 90103, cheap and works great when you get a hard to remove primer http://leeprecision.com/case-conditioning-tools/
No case feeder and I would think it would have to be straight to go up into the full length resizing die. I ordered some RCBS decapping dies and extra pins for them. Who knows when they will be here though. I don't think you can even order on Dillon's website right now.
oldkar you can get that decapping pin and base in the lee field loader..I have 3 of them field loaders
but all .30 cal...That would be a good tool for bug out and reloading without a press..They have been around since the 60's
But they neck size only
They call it a classic loader now
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/420765/lee-classic-loader-223-remington
but all .30 cal...That would be a good tool for bug out and reloading without a press..They have been around since the 60's
But they neck size only
They call it a classic loader now
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/420765/lee-classic-loader-223-remington
Call Dillon direct. I have ordered a few times over the last few weeks. They are out of some things and some are backordered however they get me the stuff within a week.
Since we are on the subject of depriming and swagging the primer pockets. I was wondering if there is a way to tell which shells have crimps and those that do not. And also which ones require swagging in advance. As I have been depriming most shells process well but some the primers hang up or do not seat all the way. Some advise would help please.
Some military cases are spriked in two or three places and some have a ring or full crimp . The best bet is if it is once fired military it will be crimped .
i've seen brass with a crimp ring a couple thousands out from the primer pocket and some with notch crimps. i'll pop mine once or twice like dennis does then slow steady pressure to ease them out. i have also had better luck with older decapping pins. came across an old bag of rcbs pins from the 70's that i use while decapping crimped brass. the older ones seem to not break near as often.
What markings will indicate military brass? I presume that looking at the headstamp and primmer area the ones with the extra piece between the primmer and the edge is the crimp? I have a hand pocket reamer, is this what is needed to ream the primer pocket to open it up? Sometimes it does not ream all the crimp out, is this correct? I am still having a little problem getting the primes to seat all the way down. More advise please?
Oddly enough if I get going too quick on the 650 it happens to me from time to time (mostly with a de-capping die but it does it with a FL die too). I guess maybe the floating toolhead makes it possible? A little tap to fully seat the brass into the shell holder makes it all better. If your hand placing them into the shellplate I'd guess that this is probably not your issue
Jrguns- the headstamp you may see the most of US miltary case would be LC plus two numbers , there should be a web site of case id you caould find that should help id other military casestamps
