Smith and Wesson revolver questions.

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Shadowrider

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Sorry, nothing in the book about 38 and 357 125 grain projectiles out of short barrels.
The reason why I posted about the 138 GDSB HP is because that's what they shot out of short barrels in 38+P and 357.

Yes they are both specialized loads to the specialized bullet. Speer sells the same exact bullets for handloading and they caution in their manual not to use the 110 grain GD bullet in .357 magnum at all, as it's designed for .38 spl velocities and the cavity is close to the base and it will deform in the bore under those pressures. The 135SB bullet is also designed specifically for expansion at lower velocities. But they do have data for the 135 SB bullet at over 1300 fps in full size guns so maybe I need to go pick some of those up. :rubhands:

For the record the factory .38 +P 135 SB loads clocked right on the factory's claimed velocity out of my 442 that I had. I mean the average was like within 3 fps of it.
 

Eagle Eye

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You've got a good point SR, and I learned something from it. I did not realize the specialized role of the GD bullet. What I posted is a very limited comparison between 38 and 357.

My goal was to compare apples to apples, something I thought could eliminate the problem of Wives tales.
 

MadDogs

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For what it's worth, gel testing .38 +P and .357 Mag loads side-by-side with the same bullet out of 2" barrels yields *very* similar results. My recommendation is to become proficient with the .38 +P version, then move to the .357 Mag is you feel the need. I did carry the M&P 340 for a while because I liked the front sight. But I'd rather use the savings in gun price to purchase practice ammo.

Great advice.
 

Shadowrider

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You've got a good point SR, and I learned something from it. I did not realize the specialized role of the GD bullet. What I posted is a very limited comparison between 38 and 357.

My goal was to compare apples to apples, something I thought could eliminate the problem of Wives tales.

It's only the "short barrel" GDs. The regulars are GTG, push them as hard as you wish. Gold Dots are outstanding bonded bullets.
 

ldp4570

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Well some folks will will not agree with me, but when it comes to J-frames they should be steel, blued or stainless. I've seen way to many of the airweights, unobtainium, or whtat ever with cracked frames right under the forcing cone. Once you crack one S&W will not fix or replace, so you have an expensive paper weight. Unless you like lots of flash, recoil, and ear problems stick with .38 special loads, there are even good non-plus "P" loads. All steel isn't that heavy, and all the J-frames conceal very nice in appropriate holster's OWB, and IWB. I consider the J-frame as more of a back-up gun than a primary, and I've carried them both ways, and never felt out gunned. I do prefer to carry a K-frame revolver with a 3" to 4" barrel and round butt grip compared to a J-frame.
 

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