1st time boat owner, MANY questions & issues

dennishoddy

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The only advice I can give is to make sure that you have at least 1 paddle on board at all times. Especially with a boat that you are new to and are unsure of it being seaworthy. You may think I'm joking, but it may be necessary someday. Also a good tow rope.

Good luck and I hope you enjoy it more than I did.
Exactly. A buddy and I bought a Taylor jet boat with a 455 olds engine in it. Scary fast.
I was driving in the middle of the lake, and saw some seagulls in the distance. Thinking we could spook them, at 70 or so MPH we discovered they were standing and not swimming just before impact with the "hump".
After some dukes of hazzard "air time" the engine failed. Later finding out that the mud sucked into the jet and locked up the engine, stripping the nylon toothed timing gears.
So, here we are in the middle of the lake without a paddle. Zero wind.
One dip net on board and that's it. We put a tshirt into the dipnet and started paddling. After a few hours, saw a campground coming up, and a vehicle on the beach. We kept waving and paddling and the guy stayed there.
Long story short, he waited and we got a ride back to the ramp for our vehicle. Had to go to town for another boat to tow it in. You gotta love boat adventures.
 

C_Hallbert

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#1
I recommend Liquid Wrench (Penetrating Oil) and 24 Hour to set. If you can put some of the penetrating lubricant on the threads from above it will add some gravity to improve the thread surface area contacted.

If the Brass Plug has a square external bolt surface, use a small Pipe Wrench with an Extension Tube to attach to the bolt surface. If necessary, square up the bolt surface of the Brass Plug with a file before attacking with the Pipe aWrench. A Pipe Wrench tightens as pressure is applied. If the external bolt.

If the Brass Plug has an Internal Square Female contact point for removal, I would still use Penetrating Oil. However, first I would drill and employ a large Easy-Out. If it doesn’t do it, drill it out close to the threads, the apply a small punch and a chisel to fold in and knock out the remaining brass.

#4
Two Batteries on an I.O. Engine generally designate one Battery (Usually Battery A) for Engine Starting, and another (Battery B) for Accessories (Navigation Lights, Horn, Search Light, Bilge Pump, LiveWell Pumps, etc).

Both Batteries should be wired in Parallel (+ to +; - to -) through the Battery Selector Switch which enables:

(OFF) Position- Isolate the Batteries to (OFF) for Engine Maintenance, Storage and Safety.

Select (-A-) or (-B-) for Starting

Select (A and B) in Parallel (If both Batteries are in a Low Charge State

#5
Onboard Battery Chargers are usually wired directly to each Battery whether by a (2) Bank Charger or two separate Battery Chargers.

Note- it would be possible to charge both Batteries in (A+B) Mode through the Battery Selector, Switch, but this leaves power to Engine Starter and Fuel Pump. If it is connected this way, I would change it.

#6
Marine Dual Purpose Batteries provide both Starting and Deep Cycle attributes most useful for Accessories and Trolling Motors. Good Batteries are expensive. The Marine Dual Purpose Starting
Battery I use for Starting my Yamaha F250 cost over $400.....


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sh00ter

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well I pulled the spark plugs, soaked the chit outta the cylinders with deep creep twice each, and let it sit for about an hour, then left plugs out, unhooked ignition coil and then turned over the motor with the starter...it turned over with ease and sounded smooth as any other motor I've fogged that way (project cars and jetskis). It is a chevy motor after all so I'm hoping it will be fine. Biggest worry is since no RV antifreeze used in block while stored so long, coulda developed rust but cast iron chevy block is well made so I bet it will still serve for years if i do it right from now on.

confirmed had AC OEM platinum plugs 41-932 so I can get those locally easy...can I used a standard oil filter for a 4.3 or do I need a "special" marine oil filter when I do change the oil? I think I will use the OEM volvo gear oil for the lower unit though.

Also confirmed gauges working, and clarion stereo is impressive sound compared to what I expected from older marine speakers.

what does the extension tube described for the pipe wrench look like? Just a piece of cheater pipe or what?

Finally, the motor has a water hose hook-up in the engine bay...IS THIS AN ALTERNATIVE TO USING MUFFS TO RUN THE ENGINE ON TRAILER?
 

dlbleak

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Use the marine rated stuff like filters,electronics,etc. there is a difference. Interested to hear more about the water port in the engine bay.
I’ve had a couple boats since 97 or 98. Always stored indoors and babied. Our last trip where we lost the wheel off the trailer, when I pulled the plug there was oil in the water. It’s been to hot to check it out. I hope it’s not something serious,ugh!
 

Shoot Summ

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Use the marine rated stuff like filters,electronics,etc. there is a difference. Interested to hear more about the water port in the engine bay.
I’ve had a couple boats since 97 or 98. Always stored indoors and babied. Our last trip where we lost the wheel off the trailer, when I pulled the plug there was oil in the water. It’s been to hot to check it out. I hope it’s not something serious,ugh!

I've always used regular oil filters, fuel filters, plugs, and ignition components with no issues. Some items like starters and alternators there is a difference. Curious what you believe is different about "marine grade" other than the cost, and sourcing? I can see where a boat used in saltwater might require some different components, but not fresh water.

I'm curious about the water port as well, might be a mod for my boat in the future...
 

Hawgman

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Number One- Take a basic course from the local Power Squadron organization. It's about 3 days long and may save your life.

Number Two- Make check lists for, at a minimum, Launching the boat and Recovering the boat. It lends to more enjoyment on the water and can save you a large amount of dollars.
 

jmike314

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If you anchor up in a cove and want to run electrical like stereo,finder, phone charging, etc. - switch the battery to “B” only.

Keeps “A” safe for starting if you run electrical all day.

Run on “A + B” so they both get charge while cruising.

That’s they way I’ve run mine with that same battery switch you’re talking about.




“Crying is for babies, little girls, and men who just had their ears ripped off.”
- Oobedoob Benubi
 

dlbleak

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I've always used regular oil filters, fuel filters, plugs, and ignition components with no issues. Some items like starters and alternators there is a difference. Curious what you believe is different about "marine grade" other than the cost, and sourcing? I can see where a boat used in saltwater might require some different components, but not fresh water.

I'm curious about the water port as well, might be a mod for my boat in the future...

I was mainly referring to the starter and alternator. If the cost difference isn’t huge, I’ll go with the marine grade.
 

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