I helped a guy put one on a 67' bronco with a 170 6cyl. Simple install and instant hp over an 1100 carb.
I want to strip everything Ford off of mine and redo it like that. More reliable and easier to diagnose. Also put in a vintage air system and make the vacuum vent flappers cable operated. Maybe a different gas tank setup that fits an ultra reliable fuel pump.
Dbleak,
Just want to clarify. I believe the PIP sends info to the computer. That will affect whether the injectors pulse or not and tells the ICM to power the coil. The PIP can cause intermittent issues. The computer could think the engine isn't running and not pulse the injectors or turn off the pump.
This link is just good to read because it makes it easy to understand.
https://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford/4.9L-5.0L-5.8L/what-does-the-pip-sensor-do
Might consider installing one of those little inline fuel pressure gauges.
You could have everything right and timing could cause it to not run. You could rotate the engine by hand until the rotor lines up on cylinder one. Then just see what timing marks are lining up. I think these trucks are 12d BTDC. I've read that there is a notch at 12d. You might also be able to hear or feel if there's something weird inside the distributor. Perhaps a crusty PIP. If you got the PIP code for sure, all that means is the computer isn't receiving the proper voltage range from the PIP sensor.
Also make sure the fuel pump isn't turning off after a few seconds of cranking just as a sanity check.
Just want to clarify. I believe the PIP sends info to the computer. That will affect whether the injectors pulse or not and tells the ICM to power the coil. The PIP can cause intermittent issues. The computer could think the engine isn't running and not pulse the injectors or turn off the pump.
This link is just good to read because it makes it easy to understand.
https://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford/4.9L-5.0L-5.8L/what-does-the-pip-sensor-do
Might consider installing one of those little inline fuel pressure gauges.
You could have everything right and timing could cause it to not run. You could rotate the engine by hand until the rotor lines up on cylinder one. Then just see what timing marks are lining up. I think these trucks are 12d BTDC. I've read that there is a notch at 12d. You might also be able to hear or feel if there's something weird inside the distributor. Perhaps a crusty PIP. If you got the PIP code for sure, all that means is the computer isn't receiving the proper voltage range from the PIP sensor.
Also make sure the fuel pump isn't turning off after a few seconds of cranking just as a sanity check.
What vehicle do you have? Both of my 66' with 170 6cyl are still single barrel 1100 and running points and Motorcraft coils. They're about as reliable as it gets. No horsepower whatsoever but reliable lol.
I have a 90 f150 4.9l with fuel injection. It's busy under the hood and I don't like how unreliable the fuel pumps seem to be. I know there's good ones out there. I don't like how much it relies on vacuum for things.
I replaced tons of vacuum lines on my dad's 90' 4.9l. Most of it dry rotted and just crumbled.
What year? My 2004 was O'Reiley's at $248. I tried Rock auto but they kept sending the wrong one.
My replacement is a one for one OEM and it works great.
I've replaced what I could find. My vents still won't switch. Need to just buy the smoker machine and find the leaks that way. Probably in the dash. I bet dbleak will end up having the same problem.
I have a bit of an inside track at Oreillys. Radiator, both hoses, thermostat, gallon of dexcool and tax was $270
