You might want to get it Zyglo inspected to make sure that the filiform corrosion hasn't turned into intergranular
Shoot it and carry it,who cares what it looks like.I love it like it is.My 340PD has the black coating worn off the cylinder lock side where my perspiration has eroded it,it won't rust,it's Scandium. Steve
sorry but sweat and aluminum are not a good combo.
folks who produce more salts are at greater risks of damaging aluminum frame guns.
standard tests for anodizing include salt spray for type 3 hard anodizing. clear anodizing gives little to no additional resistance to salt.
best thing to do if you fall into group of folks who's got extra salty sweat is to rinse off gun with running water. then dry off.
hot water is used to seal anodizing in the very last step before taking part off rack.
so hot water can also be used, after rinsing off aluminum with cold water...advantage of hot water drying faster and will seal pores.
besides not carrying your aluminum CCW next to skin. rinsing off with water is your best defense against corrosion caused by salty sweat.
note amount of damage can go beyond cosmetic in the hurry. salt attacks aluminum once damage goes beyond initial surface film protection.
I put up a how to thread several months back on this topic... was real surprise there was no interest....
The problem is (in my case) the sweat was from a 15 mile bike ride and it happened well before I got a chance to rinse it off - it also got under the grips (which means you have to remove them to clean/rinse each time you sweat on it).
Mine happened while in a pocket-holster in some cargo shorts (I've since switched to just lashing a soft gun-case to the bike under the seat so that I can get to it quickly should I need to but it gets no sweat on it).
I'm re-coating mine just so that it doesn't pit to the point of being structurally unsound.
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