Any long time casters around here

[RedHawk357Mag]

Looking for someone to discuss a brass mold with. I have a 44 Mag brass 503 mold that has a bit of light showing through the halves. Not sure if the alignment pins have drifted or some how I warped one of the halves. I can apply enough pressure to prevent seams between the halves but if I don't keep a close eye on it I will start throwing bullets with seams. I'm in the Duncan area. Thanks

 

[swampratt]

Could be a pin issue or a handle issue or you have a tiny bit of lead between the halves.
I would think it would take a lot of heat to warp those thick molds.. I suppose it can happen.
But you will NOT have enough strength and neither will the handles to be able to squeeze tight enough to pull a warp out of any ferrous or non ferrous metal of that thickness, by hand.

If the mold manufacturer is still in business i would contact them..also research over at cast boolits forum

 

[RedHawk357Mag]

Thanks for weighting in. Handles were off when when I checked it. I will take another look at the halves for a foreign particle of lead, admittedly the quality of lighting in the garage should be improved. The halves are bank vault like so I tend to agree about heat warping. I do preheat on a fairly decent hotplate. It's a waring hotplate with total enclosed element. There is a saw blade on top of that. I tend to monitor the plate temp with a quality heat probe. I am pretty sure I have never been North of 750 when casting and plate temp probably never above 350. Normal cast temps are 700ish. You have a great point about being able to get enough pressure on a mold half to overcome a warped half. Although holding mold to the light and gripping the mold handles will extinguish the light between the halves. If you're interested in taking a look I can find some time to ride out your way. Thanks for suggestions. The mold maker is in Sylvania or something similar. Totally fantastic mold maker and I really want to fix the issue with out bugging him. Really think the answer is easier than dealing with post office and more than likely just a maintenance issue instead of a product issue.

 

[swampratt]

After repeated use the pins that slide into the grooves to keep halves secure and even will eventually move some of the alloy of the leading edge of the groove into the groove it'self. Rare but i have seen it happen.

In other words the groove is filling up and the alignment pin does not fit like a glove.. more pressure could over come and compress this a small amount.

This is assuming no lead build up in the grooves of the face.

Sometimes pins will get a tiny bit loose or a build up behind the pins . That could be another issue.

I do not recommend this but with a figity mold that nothing works and the manufacturer is out of business or if they will not repair.
You can clamp the handles on and pinch tight at the same time lay the side of the block on a hardwood stump and smack the other side with a rawhide hammer...

Basically resetting the groove and pin in a better marriage.

BUT if you can keep the seam away by squeezing tighter on each pour and holding tight till you open the sprue then that is the best way to go.

Yes it sucks to use your kungfoo grip as it will get tiring ,, but sometimes that is the way it goes.

I had one mold that i had to slightly taper the very bottom edge with a pocket knife.. as this edge touched first and caused the issue you speak of..
Kungfoo grip overcame the seam,, but got tiring..
So install handles and close slowly and see what touches first.

 

[RedHawk357Mag]

Thanks Swamp you have given me some things to look at and for. will post an update when I get a minute to work with it.