Generator problem

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Firpo

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I know on my 22KW Generac I reached a year of service and it was way before the runtime had been attained to change the break-in oil to synthetic so I called Generac and asked what I should do. They explained that the break-in oil is simply good ol’ fashioned motor oil (non-synthetic). You wouldn’t believe how difficult that is to find these days. Everything is at least a synthetic blend leaving “regular” oil unobtanium. Finally tracked some down and got things changed and ready for another year. I mention this only as reference coming straight from the factories technical support group.
 

Fredkrueger100

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I would put a drip pan under it, put the right oil in it and keep using it. I have a ford truck that leaks a ton of oil. Still works just fine!
With how much oil that is coming out it wouldn’t take long and the machine would shut off due to low oil. But I may end up trying it just to see how long it will run. Only problem is the oil gets flung all around and it lands on the exhaust and it smokes really bad.
 

Okie4570

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Not using synthetic oil comes from break in time on any new engine. Any rebuilt or new engine specific instructions to change after 500 miles, and then the next 5 oil changes use conventional oil before switching to synthetic. Synthetic doesn't allow the rings to seat properly, or so they say, and I've been hearing that consistently for 40y.
 

Parks 788

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I appreciate all the responses. I didn’t know that about using synthetic oil. That’s what I run in it. Well from everything y’all have said I think this is way above my head. I don’t know jack crap about these engines. I sure don’t know anything about pulling it apart. I wouldn’t know where to start. So if the seal is bad I’m guessing it’s inside and cannot be seen without taking the engine apart? Also, this engine has less than 150 hours on it. That’s the sick part.
I'm like you (I assume) in that I dont know small engines well at all and can make me a bit nervous to take on such an endeavor. THat being said, if I were in your shoes I'd take the recommendation of most here and change up the oil to a conventional and then go straight to 30 weight. See how that works out with the leak. THen once the weather gets nicer in late winter I'd make this a learning endeavor on small engines. I bet you could find some Youtube videos on disassembling the Champions generators. Step by step. Even if not a Champion brand I'd bet many portable generators in this size range and style have very similar contruction build. Take your time, take pics of each step and maybe a few videos along the way, go slow and make notes. WOuld be a great feeling to do accomplish this yourself and it work.
 

Camo

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Not using synthetic oil comes from break in time on any new engine. Any rebuilt or new engine specific instructions to change after 500 miles, and then the next 5 oil changes use conventional oil before switching to synthetic. Synthetic doesn't allow the rings to seat properly, or so they say, and I've been hearing that consistently for 40y.
If it’s splash lubricated use non detergent oil and I never run synthetic in my small engines.
 

Okie4570

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If it’s splash lubricated use non detergent oil and I never run synthetic in my small engines.
I don't either, everyone is on a synthetic engine oil kick, I was saying that even on an modern engine rebuild, no synthetic until the rings have seated.
 

dennishoddy

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The don’t use “synthetic oil in small engines” and the “synthetic oil eats seals” is an ancient wives tale. I have synthetic in everything I own and there is zero issue with it. You can even mix it with Dino juice if you want.

One thing that is good ( not mandatory) is to use an oil that’s rated at API SG classification or earlier. That does have more zinc in it and that applies to ALL engine oils for gasoline engines.

True synthetic is superior in every way with no downside.
I was wondering why all the hate on synthetic oil. I've ran it in my small engines as well as the ATV and ATC with zero issues for many years now.
My Super Duty F-250 runs it as well.
Edit: Break in oil for rebuilt engines is non detergent. I haven't rebuilt an engine in many years, but that was what was done back then.
I have edgers, rototillers, zero turn mowers, etc that all run on synthetic.
Back in the day the log splitter that I built couldn't be started in cold weather with a pull start as the dino oil was too thick. We would have to use propane torches to warm up the oil before it would thin out enough to get the rpm's it needed to start.
Changed to synthetic and it started anytime the rope was pulled. Still does to this day.
 
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