S&w Bodyguard 38spl

[Navydoc]

Are those still "grip sensitive"?

 

[Glock 'em down]

Are those still "grip sensitive"?

Of course they are. You're gonna be hell pressed to find a speed loader for the mighty J frame that isn't. The tolerances are just too close on the Jaybird to squeeze a speedloader in there.

Hell, I've took my grips completely off before and tried to use a speed loader and it still kinda hung up.

Get yourself some speed strips and give 'em a try. You can pick 'em up at H&H for less than 10 bucks for a pair. Loading them properly helps as well. I load two rounds up front, skip one slot, then load the remaining three. This gives me a little leverage and clearance to get the first two rounds in, which are the most vital. If you can't get the first two rounds in the cylinder in a timely manner, you're screwed!

Below is a link to a good video showing you how to use the speed strip. Most guys (including good ol' Mas) load 'em up with 5 rounds and leave the last hole open to give you something to hang on to. I tried that method and found that I like my way better.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMAXlT3ZLzs

 

[Navydoc]

Look up a few posts and you'll see I'm already dead set on strips. I can't stand fiddling with a speed loader hoping it will line up

 

[Glock 'em down]

Look up a few posts and you'll see I'm already dead set on strips. I can't stand fiddling with a speed loader hoping it will line up

Oh. Well I was just preachin' to the choir then, huh?

 

[Navydoc]

It's all good, that soap box need the dust blown off of it every now and then

 

[Stingray]

Actually, the Safariland Comp I speedloaders look like they use a push button, but that little do-dad is how you lock the rounds in place in the loader. The trigger mechanism that loads the rounds into the cylinder is in the middle of the loader. It mates up with the star of the cylinder when the loader is inserted and releases the round by a simple push of the entire loader.

I like that type best too. All my Smiths are K frames though, I've never owned a J and was unaware of the issues regarding using speedloaders with them.

-S

 

[elwoodtrix]

I gotta question for ya GED... I got my 638 yesterday and was comparing it to my 686. I spun the cylinder on the 686 and then spun the cylinder on the 638 and noticed some drag... is that common? The cylinder is making contact right above the trigger on the frame, should I be concerned? I mean it shined up the alloy and I'm thinking there's a problem..

 

[Glock 'em down]

I gotta question for ya GED... I got my 638 yesterday and was comparing it to my 686. I spun the cylinder on the 686 and then spun the cylinder on the 638 and noticed some drag... is that common? The cylinder is making contact right above the trigger on the frame, should I be concerned? I mean it shined up the alloy and I'm thinking there's a problem..

As long as it's just leaving a common turn line, you're good. All revolvers do it. It's the hand dragging along the wheel until it gets to one of those little notches on the cylinder.

Brand new S&Ws are renown for making their own drag line. So are Colts and Rugers and Taurus and...

Like I said. They ALL do it.

After you dry fire and live fire it just a few times, it should stop dragging so noticeably. If it leaves any shiny areas other than the line between the notches on the cylinder, contact S&W. You might have a little excess steel on the cylinder or frame or both.

 

[elwoodtrix]

http://s188.photobucket.com/albums/z80/NSJUST_SOME_DUDE/?action=view&current=638.jpg

 

[garrett09]

Put 50 more fmj in her today and like it more and more. I have had a 442,642 and lcr and this out shoots them all in my hands. The thin stocks make pocket carry easy. Im really starting to like were the cylinder release.