Scope advice needed.

[jakerz]

I would jump for the PST over the viper. If it was me, I would save more and get the 4-16x MRAD PST (Christmas is around the corner). Well worth the price. I had this scope and it was a very nice piece of glass. Also, the Bushnell Elite line is very good.

 

[Mitch Rapp]

Well, again, I have to fund this out of the sale of another gun, so I am on a tight budget.

 

[jakerz]

I hear ya, but if I were in your shoes, I would just wait until I could afford the better glass. It can be hard to do, I know, but a good scope goes a long way. They really are an investment, just like the rifle. I wouldn't "skimp" on it if at all possible. If not the 4-16x pst, then at least kick in the extra $100 for the 2.5-10x pst. It will be money well spent and you won't regret it. I've learned the hard way to cry once.

 

[MoBoost]

Looking for a scope to put on a Savage bolt action .308. Haven't decided exactly what gun to get yet, but it will be a heavy barreled gun, to be used hunting some, but mainly for long range target shooting. I would like to be able to get out to 1,000 with it, but most of my shooting will be done around 600.

A few things that are very important to me are, it needs to track consistently. I would like a mil reticle of some sort. Preferably not a mil-dot, I like the lines better since they are a bit easier to figure. It needs to be around $500, no more than about $550.

Target shooting will eventually need magnification, at 600 I usually run 24x and if conditions allow go higher.

Mil/Mil is nice - but you get 1/10 knobs, which for target shooting is pretty coarse - F-Class target X-ring is 0.5 MOA; 1/10 click takes you from one edge to another. Of course you can hold-over - but then we are back to magnification capabilities.

If you are going hunting with the same scope - I would recommend covered turrets: I've had turrets turn by catching on clothing, grass, etc.

Nikon Monarchs glass is excellent and side focus is nice, but reticles are too fat and internal adjustment is minimal.

SWFA scopes get a lot of rave reviews (I've never had one) - but for the price you'll be in fixed power; works OK on targets - hunting not so much.

Burris makes excellent scopes - I have a few on my hunting rifles; but FFII knobs are not the easiest to turn with gloves, and TAC knobs are exposed.

I've shot a few matches and hunted with 6.5-20x44 Vortex. It is really hard to beat for the price. All adjustments are easy in gloves (aka hunting), turrets are nice and big and covered, side focus is great for both target and hunting.

Bottom line recommendation: http://swfa.com/Vortex-65-20x44-Viper-30mm-Rifle-Scope-P13285.aspx
or the one from midway if got to have mil/mil (plus zero stop).

 

[GUN DOG]

Just for funnies & not to hijack the thread Moboost what would you buy for an F class scope with say a $1500 budget +/- a feww hundred. who knows we all may decide to try it one day

 

[MoBoost]

I sold my mid-level scopes and bought this: http://swfa.com/Sightron-10-50x60-SIII-30mm-Riflescope-P48423.aspx
All my rifles got MIL-STD-1913 rails, and the scope travels from one gun to another with Warne tactical rings.

50x is too much for F-Class - but works great for 6PPC @ 100 yards.
Mil-Dot is indexed at 24x and 1/20 clicks get you on X-ring very quick and precise.

Lots of guys run NF BR scopes - I looked through both before deciding and glass is SUPERB on both:
NF is:
heavier
smaller objective
less adjustment
less magnification
MOA adjustments only
less objective adjustment

it does however have illumination and .... even if they were the same price I would've gone with Sightron, but I really don't see few hundred $ more justified.

 

[ripnbst]

After having a Nikon Prostaff before and selling it I recently asked for one of these as a Christmas gift.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/149054/nikon-prostaff-rifle-scope-4-12x-40mm-mil-dot-reticle-matte

I was REALLY impressed with the Prostaff for what they cost. $150, 4-12x40, Mil-dot Reticle. It was a no brainer for me after having a 3-9x40 BDC Prostaff and the price point.

 

[GUN DOG]

Now I have to mull tings over again, never thought of a couple of good scopes being transfered to diff rigs, using same base rings on the same platform it would not be tat difficult to do.

The base you mention says not for target actions, I thought all the newer round back short actions have the same screw spacing for the mounts.

I am not one for mil dots too much going on for me & I still can't get my head around the calculations, I am more of a moa kind of guy & a cross hair. I see they have a fine cross hair in that model & a target dot I could probably use a dot but too many dots does not help me

You have been a wealth of info Thanks, I have been on the idea now of more quality than quantity as I get older so I am heading in that direction

 

[ripnbst]

If you are looking at using 1913 Picatinny rails I recommend the Weaver 20 MOA base. I have one and while I have only limited experience with it I cannot even begin to justify the cost of a Nightforce or similar for a freaking section of 1913 rail!!! Especially not if you are talking about putting them on multiple firearms.

I did use blue loctite on my mounting screws for the Weaver 1913 rail base. Figured it couldn't hurt.

 

[MoBoost]

Now I have to mull tings over again, never thought of a couple of good scopes being transfered to diff rigs, using same base rings on the same platform it would not be tat difficult to do.

Once you go true Picatinny (1913) - you can move from one platform to another - as far as I know Warne, EGW, TPS, Seekins, Badger, GG&G make "spec" rails (sure there is more) for all sorts of guns.

The base you mention says not for target actions, I thought all the newer round back short actions have the same screw spacing for the mounts.

Yes, the spacing is all the same*, TPS has a built-in recoil lug for standard action - I just grind it off on target actions.

* - technically target screws are .001 further apart - I don't even remember where I read that.

I am not one for mil dots too much going on for me & I still can't get my head around the calculations, I am more of a moa kind of guy & a cross hair. I see they have a fine cross hair in that model & a target dot I could probably use a dot but too many dots does not help me

I know where you coming from - there are a lot of reticles now that just clutter the sight picture. Dots really don't interfere with the view of the target, and as I said - huge help with getting "zero" in two shots.