Does anyone have tips for setting a dillion 600 ? I got the brass hanging up on the ram if I turn the rod in to the point it touchs the rams or is close and it stills does not swage . The videos I have found are of no help .
I read that you stick the case on the mandrel and adjust the rod until it just touches the case then open and turn the rod in a little bit more and stick the lock nut on it and snug it down.. swage a case and test for primer fit.. keep turning the rod in until you get a good swage.
I had an rcbs one and it just did not work at all on LC brass in .308. I sold it for 5 bucks hated that thing.
Now my primer pockets with crimp got a knife or chamfer tool taken to them and all was good.
Maybe you got one that is slightly undersized and no adjustment will allow a case to be primed.
That is what i thought the issue was with the RCBS,, no idea because i sold it.
I had an rcbs one and it just did not work at all on LC brass in .308. I sold it for 5 bucks hated that thing.
Now my primer pockets with crimp got a knife or chamfer tool taken to them and all was good.
Maybe you got one that is slightly undersized and no adjustment will allow a case to be primed.
That is what i thought the issue was with the RCBS,, no idea because i sold it.
Follow the instructions to the letter. Some tips:
1) Tighten the mandrel locknut while the swage tip is in the primer pocket.
2) Adjust the "leveling pads" (flat block) properly with the screw on the side.
And yes you may have to sort your brass by headstamp if they vary much, but I tend to use one with the thicker web and adjust it to where it will go and then just go by feel on the swaging handle. I.E. not pushing the swaging handle down all the way on the thicker ones and all the way on the looser ones. It takes a little time to get the feel of the process but you'll get there and get it dialed in.
I have mine set up on my wood bench with a nail to anchor a rubber band to. Then I wrap it around the mandrel to where it will throw the case into a plastic bin a couple of feet away. There are youtube videos on this and it really speeds up things and works very well. The Dillon super swage is the best thing going except for the built-in swage on their 1050 press. There just ain't nothing better. I just swage 9mm and .223 as a matter of course without sorting. I can do 1000 in little time with the rubber band mod.
1) Tighten the mandrel locknut while the swage tip is in the primer pocket.
2) Adjust the "leveling pads" (flat block) properly with the screw on the side.
And yes you may have to sort your brass by headstamp if they vary much, but I tend to use one with the thicker web and adjust it to where it will go and then just go by feel on the swaging handle. I.E. not pushing the swaging handle down all the way on the thicker ones and all the way on the looser ones. It takes a little time to get the feel of the process but you'll get there and get it dialed in.
I have mine set up on my wood bench with a nail to anchor a rubber band to. Then I wrap it around the mandrel to where it will throw the case into a plastic bin a couple of feet away. There are youtube videos on this and it really speeds up things and works very well. The Dillon super swage is the best thing going except for the built-in swage on their 1050 press. There just ain't nothing better. I just swage 9mm and .223 as a matter of course without sorting. I can do 1000 in little time with the rubber band mod.
Ok I got all 1000+- 308 win sorted out last nite ( alot of sbs 06,lc 08,74,68 87,75) all decapped ready to go .
I still can't get things set right -I turn the rod in a little at a time and no swage even when the brass hangs up --I have a Ballistics Tool Swage gage to check the pockets and I check by trying load a primer if close by the gage .
I guess I will keep dialing till I find the sweet spot .
I still can't get things set right -I turn the rod in a little at a time and no swage even when the brass hangs up --I have a Ballistics Tool Swage gage to check the pockets and I check by trying load a primer if close by the gage .
I guess I will keep dialing till I find the sweet spot .
I gave up trying to swage the primer pockets and used an rcbs chamfer tool.
But 1000 pieces, man you got a job.
The brass that would not swage was the LC .308 This was an rcbs tool.
Maybe your tool is defective.
Some brass has a lot of spring back.
Is the tool getting stuck in the primer pocket?
Mine was and I had to pound the press arm to to free the swage from the primer pocket.
Not a smooth operation at all.
But 1000 pieces, man you got a job.
The brass that would not swage was the LC .308 This was an rcbs tool.
Maybe your tool is defective.
Some brass has a lot of spring back.
Is the tool getting stuck in the primer pocket?
Mine was and I had to pound the press arm to to free the swage from the primer pocket.
Not a smooth operation at all.
Maybe dumb questions but, do you have the large primer swage tip in it? Are you using the full lever stroke? Unless you have the tool at the edge of your bench and hanging off a little you won't get full travel, the lever goes past the point of being flat with the table. I have mine mounted on a board and clamp the board to where it hangs off a little.
Yes to both and yes to the right ram -- was doing the same thing with 223 brass
It is possible to bend the rod if you adjust it too tight. If I remember correctly it works best if all the brass is of the same spec/lot that you run. You may have to tweak for a new lot. A SS 600 makes a looks of good brass once adjusted correctly for the lot of brass.
That's the biggest reason to tighten it up while engaged with the primer swage tip, also the rod's locknut has to be tight. Either can cause a bent rod. It would be nice if you could leave it loose and tweak it as you go, you wouldn't have to sort that way. I've really wished they would change their eccentric geometry to make it have more travel, as it is it has a tremedous amount of leverage and that's why it doesn't have much travel. It really doesn't need to be that powerful to swage a crimped pocket. But you can get it going pretty good. Here I'm doing some 9mm brass last winter. If you are wondering how I hung the "backboard" I used velcro. If you notice the pile just to the left of the board I have my swager mounted on, those are the ones that wouldn't go on without backing the rod off a little bit.
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