1911 Q's

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JD8

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The rear corners of the RH grip and the MSH dig into the meat of my thumb. So a rounded MSH and grips, I think, would be the ticket.

That sounds borderline cup and saucer.

You could identify the maker - or at least, differentiate between a Kimber and the rest - using only your senses of touch and hearing?

I can tell you by touch and trigger the difference between any of my customs VS a Kimber. I could also tell the difference between my Les Baer and any custom out there EXCEPT maybe a Springer Pro. Those that own a Baer will understand. I can also hear the difference between a C&S trigger group being dry fired opposed to others. But, who cares? :D
 

adluginb

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Why don't you come back over to the house and you can shoot my Nighthawk?

If we plan it right, I might can arrange to have a Wilson and a Les Baer here for you to try too.

Let me know and if I am off I will bring them.

Ohh and yes you can feel a difference in a semi custom 1911 very much so.
 

Traxxis

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+1. The rear corners of the RH grip and the MSH dig into the meat of my thumb. So a rounded MSH and grips, I think, would be the ticket.

To those of you who think there's a tangible difference in quality: could you still tell the difference if you were blindfolded and randomly given a (confirmed unloaded) 1911 of similar configuration and size from Ed Brown, Nighthawk, Wilson Combat, or Kimber? You could identify the maker - or at least, differentiate between a Kimber and the rest - using only your senses of touch and hearing?
Yeah, I think I could distinguish which ones where the productions vs the custom/semi-customs.

Here are a few things to look for:
A: slide to frame fit should be tight and smooth, not loose and choppy. You should not be able to clock the slide back and forth when the pistol is in batter, nor should it move up and down, or left and right, it should be solid.
B: the rear of the slide should be blended, and if you were to close your eyes, you should not be able to easily distinguish where the ejector and extractor is, or really, even where the frame meets the slide... it should all be blended together.
C: I'm going to try to explain this... but I'm not sure if I can, you would just have to experience it... but when I cycle a round in a production gun, I hear and feel a "click-chunk", but when I cycle a round in a custom gun, a get a nice SOLID "ka-chunk". It almost seems as though the round in the production doesn't really want to go into the chamber, and it's not as smooth. On a custom gun though, it's like there is a vacuum on the round, and the round sucks right up into the chamber with no real resistance... it's smooth as snot on a door handle.
D: The muzzle should not move when the pistol is in battery. I believe the prints allow about .001" of play? Don't quote me on that... but short story long, it should be tight.
E: You should not feel any machining marks on the exterior of the pistol.

Finally, generally production guns will rattle.

Let me know and if I am off I will bring them.

Ohh and yes you can feel a difference in a semi custom 1911 very much so.

There we go! :)

BTW: I thought you were coming out last weekend??
 

Perplexed

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That sounds borderline cup and saucer.

Not when it's a combination of Commander grips and large hands ;)

I can tell you by touch and trigger the difference between any of my customs VS a Kimber. I could also tell the difference between my Les Baer and any custom out there EXCEPT maybe a Springer Pro. Those that own a Baer will understand. I can also hear the difference between a C&S trigger group being dry fired opposed to others. But, who cares? :D

Looks like I need to check out these custom builds up close and personal. Thanks for the comments.
 

Perplexed

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Yeah, I think I could distinguish which ones where the productions vs the custom/semi-customs.

Here are a few things to look for:

I really need to check out the custom builds, then! :D The stiff price tags had turned me away with just a cursory glance. Thanks for the tips.
 

NikatKimber

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I will say, there is a difference, and I can tell it's there.

However, the Kimber I had, note - it was an early one, the trigger was excellent (though it may not have been factory Kimber), and there was very little play between the slide and frame.

The difference was the fitting of the parts to the slide/frame, and the time (or lack thereof) spent tuning the pistol to run reliably.
 

HiredHand

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I think sticker shock is a huge issue for most people when it comes to 1911. If you are buying from a reputable manufacturer or custom builder you really are getting what you pay for in most cases.

There is definitely a difference in final fit and finish. The degree of blending and removing sharp edges makes the gun feel like an extension of your hand. It will be more comfortable to carry and shoot for longer periods.
 

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