A question about something I saw on levergun.com

[Old Fart]

I've seen spins on both of these before. But had a question or two.

Question #1. I've done the wet drop before but never messed with the whole soft point thing. Any of you?

A Paco secret...
Here’s a trick I write about often...to get soft nose and hard body cast bullets, cast them hard and hot, frosty bullets are better no matter what the experts say... drop them from the mold into water to temper....then place your bullets standing in water to their shoulder just above the top crimp groove, so the nose is exposed....take a butane torch and run it over the noses sticking out of the water...this detempers just the noses, so you in effect have a soft nose-hard body, cast bullet. It takes a little practice...but as soon as you see the bullet noses change color at all, pull the flame...or the nose will slump over...it doesn’t take much flame time, especially on small caliber bullets. Cast bullets made this way will resist fouling but will expand in any size animal....from rabbits on up.


Question #2. I've used the sode can gas check thing, but never this. Any of you?

A PACO SECRET....Even though this bullet doesn’t have a gas check, when it is cast hard..a small disk of bullet base size, of thin polypropylene with a very small amount of glue against the base stops any fouling. I cut the poly with a fabric punch, can cut hundreds in minutes...a little glue on a sponge and just tap the bullet base on it and put the disk to it...faster than gas checks almost.


And any input you have regarding these would be appreciated.

 

[swampratt]

I have played with the soft hard thing gas checked no gas checks.
I do not need expansion to kill a critter ....i have found this out with the many deer i have shot with tiny holes in and out, and big holes in and out...Some critters just do not know they are dead yet...
So most important thing for my bullet to do is be accurate... So i can shoot said beast in the neck. many other good places to hit them also.

Now on to the checks and no fouling..Fooey....If the lead is too soft for the velocity it will foul..If the bullet is sized too small it will foul no matter what you do to it...

Iin my muzzle loaders cut a round disc of thick belt leather to install between my powder and my lead bullet or patched round ball....Not for a leading issue but i do this because i discovered my groups shrank with the leather wads...At 40 yards with a round ball it cut my groups in 1/2.

Paco had great ideas and even these will probably work in certain guns. But do not count on them working in all guns at all velocities..
Best way to do know is to try for yourself.

 

[Old Fart]

I'm not suggesting any of these. Just looking for anyones experience doing it.

I'm quite well versed in bullet casting. I know all the in's & out's of said hobby. I've been casting longer than a lot of our members here have been alive.

I was just curious if anyone tried this. To be honest the whole tempering cast bullet noses seems a bit of an overkill to me.

 

[okietom]

Bullet casting adds a lot of time to the reloading process without stuff like that. If you have the time and want to try it you should. It sounds kinda interesting to me. If you would use a timer it seems like you could get a more consistent soft nose.

There used to be a device that would anneal cases that put the case in water with the neck dry and it would rotate under a mounted torch to anneal the case. Something like that could work for your bullet nose treatment.

 

[Old Fart]

I'm not looking to do any of these. What I currently do works fine. Just looking for experience. No offense anyone.

 

[okietom]

I have done a little casting. Some .44s with gas checks for a Redhawk and some .38 wad cutters. I am itching to do some more with bullet prices so high. If I start again I will try more pistol bullets and maybe some for my 30 carbine.