surjimmy - I saw that one. Unfortunately, not in the place to start buying stuff right now. I'm doing research, and reading up to decide what I really want.
I had a Kimber (hence my screen name), but traded it off. I found I miss having a 1911.
Someday, when I finally find the end of the rainbow, I'd like to have a true full custom. But for the foreseeable future, that's way out of my price range.
I was thinking I'd have to start with a complete gun, and add the pieces I'd want to it, and have a good 'smith fit the pieces and tune it. But if starting from scratch is a comparable cost option, I could do that.
My other reason for starting with a gun rather that parts was that I can shoot it between now and completion, as I can't do it all at once.
I guess I could buy a basic RIA and shoot that while I save up and buy parts for a build.
Either way, here's my idea of what I want.
Starting with a basic Colt or Springfield 1911,
nor front cocking serrations and as few markings on the slide as possible.
Beavertail grip safety
Novak night sights
Extended safety (non ambi)
Commander hammer
Standard recoil spring (no FLGR)
Long solid trigger (thinking Ed Brown, Wilson, etc)
Blued finish
Lowered and flared ejection port - if not already done
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I had a Kimber (hence my screen name), but traded it off. I found I miss having a 1911.
Someday, when I finally find the end of the rainbow, I'd like to have a true full custom. But for the foreseeable future, that's way out of my price range.
I was thinking I'd have to start with a complete gun, and add the pieces I'd want to it, and have a good 'smith fit the pieces and tune it. But if starting from scratch is a comparable cost option, I could do that.
My other reason for starting with a gun rather that parts was that I can shoot it between now and completion, as I can't do it all at once.
I guess I could buy a basic RIA and shoot that while I save up and buy parts for a build.
Either way, here's my idea of what I want.
Starting with a basic Colt or Springfield 1911,
nor front cocking serrations and as few markings on the slide as possible.
Beavertail grip safety
Novak night sights
Extended safety (non ambi)
Commander hammer
Standard recoil spring (no FLGR)
Long solid trigger (thinking Ed Brown, Wilson, etc)
Blued finish
Lowered and flared ejection port - if not already done
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Partly true... but if it's too loose, lock up won't necessarily come to the same place... EVERY time. That's part of what makes a working pistol an "accurate working pistol".
All I'm saying is a little play in slide tolerance isn't going to be an issue. Especially, if he decides to have say a M/T Barsto installed later on.
I'm with you on starting out with a new frame and slide if he intends replaces every single part of the gun and modify the frame/slide. If not or he plans on developing the gun in stages as time/money allows then a Springfield mil-spec or Colt series 70 would be good choices.
NK, look for a good used pistol. Especially, an older Springfield with an NM prefix in the serial number and the crossed canons behind the ejection port. You should be able to find them in the 400-500 dollar range.
RIAs are okay but they are extrusions.... it's better to start with a forged frame and slide. Springfield or Colt will work. Springfield if you don't care about how it looks. Colt if you want it to be somewhat of a BBQ piece.
I didn't mean build on the RIA, just buy it and shoot it while buying/building/assembling a custom from scratch.
If/when I do a custom, I will want it to look good too, and to me a ton of markings on the slide detracts from the look of the gun, so that limits the playing field.
Caspian slides can be had with few markings or an old 779 slide is also a good choice. Of course there's always the option of having the flats surface ground.
Yeah, Caspian is what I've looked at for a "someday" full custom build. Who knows, maybe economical for a low end custom too.
Just read about Taurus and thought, "Hey, those are forged 1911s and are fairly cheap."
But isn't the problem with them (ignoring any anti-Taurus bias
) that they are not compatible with other, mil-spec 1911s or parts?
But isn't the problem with them (ignoring any anti-Taurus bias
) that they are not compatible with other, mil-spec 1911s or parts?
Just read about Taurus and thought, "Hey, those are forged 1911s and are fairly cheap."
But isn't the problem with them (ignoring any anti-Taurus bias
Problem is, that the Taurus guns are no longer $450 like they usd to be. All of their parts should be no more or less "compatible" than other platforms. With the Springfield you have a blank slate if you want REAL metal work li checkering, scalloping etc. With the Taurus you are stuck with their version of "checkering". Usually, when starting with a base custom you'll want to pay to have it done right since its going to cost a good amount anyways.
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