To be really honest your pulling a large load for a half ton vehicle. You should be using a 2500 or 3500 to pull that trailer. The tahoe should do it but your going to just have to take it easy. I would see what tuning options are available though you'd be surprised what an ecm tune can do for pulling power. We have a 1500 Suburban and it pulls the 20ft hay trailer decent but not near what I get out of my 2500 diesel.
This.
I was pulling a 6500 pound trailer about once a month or so my self. My 1500 K truck will do it... and you watch the gas needle swing to E faster... but it did not add up to swapping for a $40 K + tow truck.
If I was towing more often Parts or a Bigger tow truck would make sense.
This.
You aren't really going to gain any significant horsepower by installing the K&N intake.
Not true, it's been proven that the lighter wallet syndrome from the purchase of the intake makes everyone "feel" there is more power. It's proven, every car forum on the internet has proof, even though no dyno in existence can prove it. It's a mystery how all dynos can't calibrate lws into the actual power ratings...
Not true, it's been proven that the lighter wallet syndrome from the purchase of the intake makes everyone "feel" there is more power. It's proven, every car forum on the internet has proof, even though no dyno in existence can prove it. It's a mystery how all dynos can't calibrate lws into the actual power ratings...
Some of these intakes get pricey for sure, I got the Spectre for ~$100 and it was worth it for the very fact it stopped the all or nothing throttle response that I had going on.
I'd just get the K&N filter not the kit you will not see any real power improvements either way but you will gain a smidge on gas mileage and since you don't replace them like paper filters the savings can add up. A quality filter like K&N is just a good idea. If you want some real power gains you can feel on the cheaper side of things, a better cam and a good tune should do the trick. Let us know what you decide and how you like the mods after towing.
I have been modifying every truck, Suv, etc that I have owned for years. What everyone else has posted about the bolt on mods is true - not worth it at all.
If you want to stick witn your vehicle then you should consider regearing. 3.73 is the minimum, I would do a 4.11 at least.
Then if you want to touch the engine, decide how far you are willing to go. Forced induction is expensive but is going to be the most noticible and easiest and cheapest vs tearing into the motor to do cam, heads, etc.
If you want to stick witn your vehicle then you should consider regearing. 3.73 is the minimum, I would do a 4.11 at least.
Then if you want to touch the engine, decide how far you are willing to go. Forced induction is expensive but is going to be the most noticible and easiest and cheapest vs tearing into the motor to do cam, heads, etc.
This is the best advice you've gotten so far.
Thanks, I've towed thousands of miles with a 5.3L Yukon XL, 18' trailer, fully loaded vehicle, and 3.73 gears. It was not great, especially when you start "up the hill" on I-40 towards Flagstaff. If I wanted to go fast I got to listen to the 5.3L scream for long periods of time, hearing that just stressed me out, so I just slowed down and joined the Semis in the right lane, made about a 30 minute difference in the whole trip to slow down a little. I can't imagine the additional wind load of an enclosed trailer, it would be awful.
I will say I had a 6.0L Silverado SS for awhile, the 6.0 was a beast, coupled with the 4.11 gears on the SS and it was a towing machine, with an appetite to match. The 5.4L in the F150 I have now seems to have more low end torque than the old 5.3L I had, not sure what GM has done to improve the torque on the 5.3.
GMT hit a key point though, PCM programming is huge on the GM's, I had the PCM programmed on the SS and it was unbelievable, with the AWD system it would almost leap off the line, I left alot of Ricers wondering what had just happened when a 6000lb brick walked away from them.
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