NcStar Scopes

[ez bake]

Ok so before someone tells me to spend more money and get something better... No. I have a high dollar scope already, this is for another rifle that I don't care about so much.

Anyway the question I was looking at the NcStar Mark III 4-16x50 with a P4 reticle. Cheapest Moa/Moa scope I could find (or matching period). Now I see NcStar on AR's and 22's but will they stand up to a .308 or a .270, I know they have a lifetime warranty but a warranty is worthless if I have to send it back or re-zero it every 5 shots I take. So does anyone have experience with NcStar scopes on hunting caliber bolt guns? Or other recommendations for a Moa/Moa or Mil/Mil under $200 that will work for me.

I wouldn't worry too much about having MIL/MIL or MOA/MOA at that price-point because pretty much all of your options are going to be limiting in that mechanically, I doubt that the controls are accurate enough to matter (much less rugged enough to handle anything larger than a .308).

I've seen illuminated NcStar, Barska, and Centerpoint scopes all quit being illuminated with the first shot of .308 - and that's scary when you think about the fact that .308 has less kick than a lot of hunting calibers.

If you know someone who has a NcStar scope, have them zero the rifle and then crank the knobs 10 minutes up and 10 minutes to the right. Shoot another group (with it obviously out of zero) but if you're aiming at the same point, then you should be hitting approx 10.47" high and 10.47" to the right - if you're not, then you're knobs aren't accurate in the first place.

Then return 10 minutes down and 10 minutes to the left - I'll just about guarantee you that your original zero is off - and at that point, the savings isn't worth it.

I've experienced this with two NcStar scopes as well as a few Barskas and even a BSA - all failed the test badly. If it passes that test, then crank it up to 20 minutes and then 30 minutes, etc...

I'd check the reticle with a $.50 yard stick from the grocery store taped to a target - if your MOA/MOA reticle doesn't measure to just a hair over 10 7/16" for 10 minutes, or just a hair under 21" for 20 minutes, you've got problems there too.

If you're planning on actually using your knobs for adjustment (and not just the reticle), then you'll need to rely on them being accurate in minutes and being able to return to zero, and I'm sorry, but that doesn't happen in an MIL/MIL or MOA/MOA scope for under $200.

If it did, I'd own one and proudly tell you about it because I'm cheap like that

MIL/MOA isn't terrible and for the price you're looking at, its about the only option you have with any sort of quality.

Not being just a brand-snob here, I've got two super-nice rifles with cheap optics on them. I don't even mind buying partially or all Chinese made optics - as long as there's QC involved and things are worth the money. Falcon Optics and Wonders Optics seem to both be good for the money (and I believe both come in Mil/Mil setup) - Millets and SS scopes (even Vortex Optics), Bushnell - all do the job and hold accuracy when using the knobs a lot.

But I also crank the hell out of the knobs on mine and move from 100yds to as far as i can get to. And I use my reticle for range-finding because out in a pasture, your best shot isn't always at exactly in 100yds increments.

If they didn't at least have accurate reticles and good knobs, I'd get rid of them.

 

[30BulletHoles]

I've had two NC Star scopes and both of them held zero fine. One of them was on a Remington 760 in .308 the other on a .223. Low quality glass but as far as holding zero, no problems.

 

[tjones96761]

I've had 2 NcStars, 3-9x40, and 3-9x50. Had the 50 on my MZ and it shot 5" groups. changed out for a cheapo Bushnell and groups came in to 2"
put the 40 on my wife's 7mm-08 and it was at 3", changed out for a Burris Fullfield and it came in under 1"

You'd think once would have taught me my lesson, but nooooo, I went back for seconds. Never again.