PEX Plumbing question

[mouthpiece]

I need to run a few hundred feet of pex to my build site.
I am seeing PEX Type A, PEX type B, PEX Type C,
Oxygen barrier, non O2 barrier, heated raidiant floor type......

What kind/type of PEX do I need to run from the meter to the house?

 

[OkieJoe72]

I’m not a plumber, but it’s my understanding that both Pex A and B can be used underground. About a month ago, I ran around 1500 feet underground using Pex A. The fittings are what’s important, and the least amount the better. I bought 500 foot rolls to reduce the number of fittings. The crimp rings aren’t recommended for underground use because they will eventually deteriorate. I used push connections that were rated for underground use.

 

[OHJEEZE]

In my neck of the woods it is black polyethylene water service line (I believe from Oil Creek Plastics) , or soft K copper if you want to spend the money.

Fittings are flare, or Mac-pak compression. The good ones are brass made in the USA, I believe the company is A.Y. McDonald!

Not a fan of pex for potable water yet, but it is great for heating!

It is my belief that copper with lead free solder for potable water is the most heathy choice!

 

[mouthpiece]

I'm seeing Some suggestions for Black well Poly pipe.
but online research is saying that may not be a better option than PEX A/B for underground

 

[Johnny]

Pex A is the expansion type stuff. It uses more specialized tools. Pex B uses crimp rings and a crimp tool. With are about $50-$70 for the tool.

 

[swampratt]

I researched that burial deal with Pex and I got the understanding for best life you should wrap
the connections or fittings with a silicone wrap.

https://www.amazon.com/SharkBite-25406A-Silicone-Underground-Fittings/dp/B01ELY7X7S

 

[Roy14]

I’d second the black poly pipe. Buy a 500’ coil so you minimize the connections. If you had to make multiple connections before tying in, fusion (socket or butt) is an option- socket is simple and bomb proof, harder to mess up. You can also buy mechanical fittings, they’re expensive but robust and it’s theoretically nice to be able to remove in the event you need to change something.

 

[Roy14]

I’d also oversize it, because the less friction loss the better. Even coming out of a 3/4” service connection from the meter you’ll do yourself a favor going into say a 2” line until you get to just outside the structure.

 

[C_Hallbert]

In my neck of the woods it is black polyethylene water service line (I believe from Oil Creek Plastics) , or soft K copper if you want to spend the money.

Fittings are flare, or Mac-pak compression. The good ones are brass made in the USA, I believe the company is A.Y. McDonald!

Not a fan of pex for potable water yet, but it is great for heating!

It is my belief that copper with lead free solder for potable water is the most heathy choice!

We had a 3/4” Black Polyethylene waterline 340’ from our well to the house in Pittsburg Co. from 1977 to around 1998. I can’t remember a winter without at least a couple of splits in it. We put in PEX from the submersible pump all the way to the house….. no problems since.

 

[User_3155]

Go to an actual plumbing supply house (not Lowes) and ask for CTS 250 PSI POLYETHYLENE PIPE. They will have the fittings needed to connect the PE on both ends of your installation.