We had some nice people get on the roof of a shopping center and rip apart the rooftop ac units for the copper coils. Literally caused over 100k in damages for probably a thousand bucks of scrap copper. Theives really piss me off.
Are you burying it? I have no problems with running URD buried for a service cable. Just be sure to Noalox the connections good and you shouldnt have any problems. All the power companies run aluminium for their underground stuff.
Yep, the bad rep for aluminum has passed. Connectors to connect aluminum to copper will have a AL/CU logo on them.
I have a license and am very familiar with materials and how to perform the work. Still, Good info for everyone. I will add that the breakers and or lugs need to be listed for Al. I already have a conduit in the ground so digging a hole is pretty much out of the question.
ETA: Dennis beat me to it.. Yup breakers and devices listed for aluminum will have the CU/Al marked on them. I dont think the bad rep is totally gone. There are quite a bit of home inspectors out there that think they know more then everyone
ETA: Dennis beat me to it.. Yup breakers and devices listed for aluminum will have the CU/Al marked on them. I dont think the bad rep is totally gone. There are quite a bit of home inspectors out there that think they know more then everyone
Main issue with the al conectors, is not having the proper tool to crimp them. Having the right tool, connector, electrician, there is no problem running aluminum.
I had it done 3 months ago for $550. It was about 150 feet through an attic. Dropped it around the corner, approx 10 feet away from the hot tub, flexible conduit from box to the hot tub. Had 3 other quotes ranging from $800 to $1100 for the exact same thing, so definitely check around.
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2011
- Messages
- 3,753
- Reaction score
- 5,156
I recently had a similar job quoted: 220/240 recepticle installed in garage about 20 feet away from the main panel, $375.
I can tell you right now if we (OGE) ever have to come out and see that you ran aluminum we will refuse service until the aluminum is removed and the instal is brought to code (copper). I just ran into this a couple of months ago with a condo on the North side. Was built 15 years ago, contractor cut corners and had aluminum in the j-box (power came off of ground based transformer and into j-box which is where the customer responsibility begins). We got the lady up with a temp line since it was winter, but she was forced to remove all of the aluminum from the J-box to the meter base and bring it to code with in 1 week or else we were going to remove the service from the home.
In OKC the home owner can do the repairs without a permit, but you will still need a inspection. I would not get the total 220v off of the same side of the breaker panel, should be setup to get the 220v off of both side to keep the load spread evenly. As long as no extra circuit have been added you should have room. If you call us ahead of time we can come out and temporarily disconnect the service from the home for you at no charge (during Mon-Fri 8a-5p hours) and then once you are installed and ready to go we will come back out and get you hot again. Biggest thing is if you are going this to code and getting your install inspected I would suggest coordinating with OKC Inspection dept ahead of time, they can take a week or so at times to come out and inspect the job and send us the inspection.
So as said there are several ways to skin the cat, you can do it yourself just make sure you do it right so that if you ever try to sell your home it does not come back in the end and keep you from selling the home for not meeting code.
There is NO verbage in the NEC that I know of which specifically prohibits the use of aluminum for service conductors as long as the size is over #6 AL or # 8 Cu ( NEC ART 230.23B) Could you please cite a city or state code or an ART in the NEC? In Tulsa you must be a Licensed electrical contractor to pull a permit for adding an opening or altering a branch circuit. Can someone in the city confirm that this is not the case there?
What are heck you talking about with separating the load and getting it from both sides of the breaker panel? 240V on a 120 / 240 single phase system already derives its load from both busses, it has to or it would not be 240! Furthermore... using two single pole un linked breakers is against the NEC (ill cite the actual code when I get to my book) ETA: NEC ART 240.15 (b)
What do you mean about "as long as another circuit has not been added"? all the outlets that anyone here would need would be a branch circuit and therefore need to be protected and have some sort of disconnecting means
Last edited:
Depending on the connected load of the hot tub; i.e. electric heaters, it may require up to a 60A., 220V. GFIC protected, hard wired not outlet, service. Don't want any children lit up or adults for that matter.
Seems like everyone has a brother-in-law or cousin that is a 'electrician'. Of course that BIL or cousin may work at the utility company, or automobile plant, or wire airplanes--and they are not qualified electricians. Get a licensed contractor to look at the work. That contractor will then have a licensed electrician do the work. BTW, ask the electrician for his license, he will be happy to show the license. Peace of mind that my house will not burn nor any of my children will be electrocuted is worth the cost of having a professional do the work.
Back to the original question of the cost--its impossible to estimate costs without visiting the site and considering all the conditions. Estimates are free and the way work is right now I believe a contractor could come right out.
