questions for Shotgun Reloaders

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Rod Snell

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There are two answers for whether or not all AA hulls are compression formed. One yes and one no. I don't want to take a chance on messing up a barrel with a lodged base wad so I guess I will have to check every one I load the first time around to make sure it is a one pc hull.

I haven't seen them, but let's assume Hoss is right. (I'm still loading from garbage bags full of hulls from a commercial range several years ago)
First, get a WIN load pamphlet and determine if the variant AA indeed do load the same as the one piece. If so, not a problem.

Second, ALWAYS take a quick look down the hull to be sure a pebble or other piece of foreign material did not get in it. Fired hulls have been on the ground.

The screening of the fired hulls is important to determine if it it is the type you are loading, it is in good condition, and it is free of debris. After you have been loading awhile, a glance takes all this in, but at first it takes a longer look and a little thinking. I glance down each hull again just as I am putting it on the MEC.

A good shotgun loading manual will have pictures and descriptions of the types of components and how to identify them. You can't have too many loading manuals and manufacturers load pamphlets.

ADDED: It is important to remember that, in spite of the simplicity (and higher cost) of compression formed hulls, there is nothing poison about a quality Reifenhauser type shotgun hull, which does provide maximum room inside the hull for components, better for hunting loads, especially steel shot. I have loaded and fired many thousands of Federal Champion plastic hulls, using the specified Federal matching wads of course, with nary a problem.
 

Hoss

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When I first started loading shotshells, I cut one of each different type hull in half length wise with a hacksaw. Then compared the hull measurements to the hulls in my lyman manual to make sure it was the correct hull for the load.

Right now I am only using the Remington STS and Nitro 27 hulls (same hull, different colors).

As has been said get a shotshell reloading manual, identify the types of hulls you have or can get and buy you other componets based on that.

I am not sure where the best place to get hulls, wads, powder, shot and primers is in the Tulsa area. Gene Sears in El Reno is usually where I get my stuff, but they are only open something like 8-5 Monday-Friday.
 

gl89aw

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The info that I have found in the powder mfgs. pamphlets I have and on the net doesn't give much info on how the hulls are made thus the question on one or two pc. hulls, I will definitely follow the recomendations for powder charge, wad, and shot charge for whichever hull I end up with. Thanks to everyone for their input.
 

kdlong

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i have loaded once fired remington buckshot hulls they are one piece.i got mine from a buddy that was a guard at jess dunn.they are a six point crimp with high brass.i would load with reminton fig 8 or win aa wadding,green dot powder and number 6 lead shot. great rabbit and quail load for the brush. never had any problems out of my 1100.
 

dennishoddy

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Dennis, how did you like your #5/blue dot pheasant load? I loaded up some 1-3/8 oz #5 with blue dot this past year and seemed to have a lot of unburned powder in the barrel. They still killed birds though.

They shoot well in the OU and SXS. Like you, the barrel looks kind of dirty after shooting them. But like you said, it still kills them.
 

Cinaet

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Good advice by Rod Snell.
I started out like he said, picking up every hull that hit the ground, and reloading them with one of the $30 lee loaders. That was all I could afford at the time.

Same here brother. I was up in the attic the other day and came across my hand written reloading book from way back in the day when I didn't have a pot to piss in. I can't believe how much work I put into that thing. I had multiple loads for every hull ever made it seems. I remember how proud I was whenever I was lucky enough to find AA hulls.
 

gl89aw

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I bought some Win. AA hulls that were gray, cut one apart and found that it does have a separate base wad. Anyone have any problems loading these?
 

johncranack

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It all depends on what velocity range that you are looking for those 1 1/8oz loads. If you wanting to load 1275-1300fps 1 1/8oz sporting clay loads than Unique is a very good choice. If you wanting loads in th 1200-1250 range than GreenDot is absolutely good choice that is my favorite one or if you want 1150 loads than RedDot or Promo is better thats what I use at present. Mostly what I shoot anymore are 1oz loads and use Promo for about 60% of them and GreenDot in the other 40%. For the $$ Promo is pretty tough to beat in any load up to 1250fps. In case of 12 and 20 gauge, Winchester AA and Remington Premier STS are top quality and long lasting hulls.
 

TonyT

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I have a plentiful supply of the old WAA and Peters Blue Magic plastic 410 hulls. I actually prefeer the peters plastic hulls as I obtain better crimps and more reloads per case. I use W-296 exclusively for loading my 4210 shotshells. I tried Lit'LGun but expereinced more than the usual number of case separations at the head - apparently it's a bit too hot burning.
Plenty of recipes for both 410 and 12 ga on both the Alliant and Hodgdon websites. In 12 ga I tend to use 7/8 oz loads for skeet and 1 oz loads for trap.
 

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