If you could do it over again…

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Ahall

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Setting up to reload

Without question, start with a solid bench and proper component storage.
Without a good workspace, you won't use the reloading set up.
Proper storage is needed for safety and to keep the components in good shape.

Then reloading data- multiple reference books to cross check your safe load ranges.

A notebook and something to write on. If your trying to split hairs, you need to keep good records of how stuff works.

1) good o-frame single station press (There are plenty of choices - RCBS, Lyman, Hornaday, etc.) so long as its stiff and when you thread in the dies that stop at the same place. I would avoid turrets, simply because its just one more place to ware, flex, or otherwise alter the consistency of your ammo.

2) Quality dies and shell holder. Once again consistency is the name of the game.

3) powder measuring - rifle powder is typically long grain, and does not feed through powder drops well. You tend to shear grains and that will affect the burn rate of a grain or two. This is the hair-splitting end of things but that's where you said you wanted to play. So why put money into a drop. Get a good mechanical scale, a set of lee powder scoops, powder dribbler and funnel. Thats all that's thats needed at start up. A digital system that weighs every charge consistently is probably where you will wind up.

4) A set of calipers, Face it, you need to be able to keep track of the little changes, like over all cartridge length, neck length, etc, and its useful for resetting dies when you tweak the wrong direction.

5) Case trimmer. At 1000 yards your shooting bottle neck cases and they change a bit each time you reload them. If the neck gets too long and won't open properly, pressured go up fast.

good components. Uniform brass, quality projectiles and powder matter.


If your building a gun, I also recommend reading "rifle accuracy facts".
Its a bit dry, but the author explains the theory and results of tests and how various features affected the accuracy of a bolt action rifle.
The author spent is professional career developing and testing big bore military hardware. Its quite obvious he has a sound theoretical grasp of the topic and is not just a hobbyist spitting out stories.

Most of it seems quite sound, and will help you put your rifle building money into the stuff that makes the most difference, rather than into what folks like to charge for.
 

Dumpstick

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I agree that everyone should start on a single stage. I also agree with a heavy, cast iron single stage.
I think any of the big names will do, I use a Lee Classic Cast.

I also agree that you should stay away from a kit. You will replace most of the kit equipment.

A good scale. Not electronic. Any of the big names will do, but the LEE is a bit more difficult to use.

Good measuring tools.

A way to take apart mistakes. You will need it.

A good powder measure. Again,, any of the big names will work. I use a Lee Deluxe Perfect Powder Measure. In my opinion, it is one of the very best out there.

A good manual, or three. Buy them all, and read the front half. Now read it again. Make certain you understand the theory of what you are doing.
Understand fast powder vs slow powder, and why it matters.
Understand seating depth, and why it matters.
Understand velocity and pressure, and the relationship betwixt the two.

Good luck, and enjoy. I've been doing it for 35+ years, and there is always something to learn.
 

red dirt shootist

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One other thing, I would use neck sizing dies. After your rifle and your ammo are a one hole deal, you have to learn to dope the wind and the light, it's pretty much a walk in the park.
 

Aries

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I’m fine with buying everything individually, especially if it ends up better than a kit. I’d rather buy once.
It won't be better than a kit, it just will be priced at a discount because you bought it as a kit. Otherwise, same stuff.

The exception would be if you prefer the RCBS scale, the Lyman press, the Hornady powder dispenser, etc., etc., etc. If you want specific individual components from specific manufacturers because to you they are better, then obviously there is no kit like that.
 

SPDguns

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Buy two single stage presses and set them up next to each other. Put the sizing die in one, seating/crimp die in the other. Put the powder measure in between them. Although you are not loading for speed, you will be surprised how efficiently this system works. You never actually put the case down from start to finish. You will only have to adjust your dies once.
YMMV
 

rocketman

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If i had to start over, this is all I would need.

*RCBS Partner press or any cheap solid press capable of priming cases
*Digital scale
*Powder trickler
*Lyman powder Pal or similar funnel type powder pan
*Lee neck sizing die set with powder scoop and shell holder included
*butane torch(for annealing necks)

Measure powder by pouring a charge a couple grains short of desired charge into the powder pan/funnel(which is on the scale) using the scoop. Use the powder trickler to bring it up to exactly what you want. Then use the pan/funnel to charge the case. You can buy a powder thrower later to replace the scoop if you want.

I have all the high price fancy equipment to mass producing my own ammo, but when I need to make a small quantity of match or hunting ammo, I only use what you see above(plus a few convenient tools I didn't mention because you don't need them yet).
 

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