Recoil lug

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

mmchambers06

Sharpshooter
Special Hen
Joined
Aug 24, 2008
Messages
2,983
Reaction score
31
Location
OKC
For what you have said I would not get the big recoil lug.
I think a "proper" bedding job will be of much more importance than the big recoil lug..
Steve ( Mechanical Accuracy) can bed it for you or you can do it yourself.
Its not that hard and there are lots of guys here and on other sights that will be gald to help. Myself included.
I would not worry to much about the long action it should work fine, and depending on the chamber and twist it might let you seat the bullets out longer..

Good luck and let us know how it works out...

Will do. I'm going to give bedding it myself a shot...I'm a DIY'er whenever possible. ETA: Where's a good site with bedding info / directions? I've found some but they seem kind of amateurish.

This rifle was the inspiration, except the colors are gonna be different...

ai24.photobucket.com_albums_c39_cassandrabeitner_008_9.jpg
 

Ksmirk

Sharpshooter
Special Hen
Joined
Oct 2, 2006
Messages
851
Reaction score
41
Location
Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
You could get a longer baffle for the long action bolt it would shorten the throw, a spacer to keep the 308 from sliding back too far you should be golden, as for the recoil lug it's up to you if you WANT to spend the $25 bucks but a good bedding job will be good enough. I have a 243 built on a Turk Mauser and you can seat the bullets WAY out there also have a 284 Win built on a Yugo and have not ran into a problem. Winchester used to build 223 on thier long action they just added spacers and different feed rails. Good luck and it's much more fun to build than buy! Later,

Kirk
 

ez bake

Sharpshooter
Special Hen
Joined
Sep 22, 2005
Messages
11,535
Reaction score
0
Location
Tulsa Area
A thicker recoil lug will affect with how it will bed into the stock (Presuming you're going from factory size to about a .250 and not way over that).

In a B&C, I would do it (you can/should still bed the stock, but it won't really make a huge difference if you've got a recoil lug filling most of the space in that aluminum recoil-lug hole inside the stock.

Most of the folks I know use Marine Tex to bed.
 

prdator

Sharpshooter
Special Hen
Joined
Dec 18, 2007
Messages
1,671
Reaction score
111
Location
Moore Ok
Will do. I'm going to give bedding it myself a shot...I'm a DIY'er whenever possible. ETA: Where's a good site with bedding info / directions? I've found some but they seem kind of amateurish.

This rifle was the inspiration, except the colors are gonna be different...

ai24.photobucket.com_albums_c39_cassandrabeitner_008_9.jpg



Nice Rifle....

Well I looked just a bit and came up with this.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KMsxHL3nIZQ&feature=related

I think there are sections on Accurate reloading and 24hour campfire to.

The long range guys will tell you to use Marine Tex and it does work good.
Though the "off the shelf" stuff works well to.
Just remember that release agent is your friend and tape up every thing your first few times to do it.

Good luck..
 

mmchambers06

Sharpshooter
Special Hen
Joined
Aug 24, 2008
Messages
2,983
Reaction score
31
Location
OKC
Thanks, Gents.

My 110 (w/ accutrigger) will have cost me $200 after shipping / transfer fee. Hopefully I'll have it in Steve's hands by early next week then I'll order the B&C (Duramaxx, ~$100).

All said and done I'll have $420 in the rifle sans scope, which will be a Bushnell Elite 3200 10x40 w/ Mildots. It will be interesting to see if it shoots worth a damn. I guess if it doesn't it will be going back to Steve...
 

mmchambers06

Sharpshooter
Special Hen
Joined
Aug 24, 2008
Messages
2,983
Reaction score
31
Location
OKC
...to feed reliably you will need to modify the magwell with a spacer and buy a short action mag spring and follower---That's why they sell a short action!!

Just thought I'd resurrect my thread here to say....ALL LIES!! :tounge2:

It feeds .308 every bit as well as my short action, no spacer, follower, or modification necessary. Doesn't matter how I load the magazine.

I ponied up and bought an action wrench and barrel wrench to switch the barrels myself. I'm thinking about switching this barrel with the one on my 10FP, but that depends on how this rifle shoots...Last time at the range I test fired it but did not shoot groups. I am waiting on a 1 piece base.

I'd like to cut it down myself....but I don't wanna ruin it and I don't know if I'm quite that ballsy...



ai14.photobucket.com_albums_a320_mmchambers06_110la.jpg

ai14.photobucket.com_albums_a320_mmchambers06_110la2.jpg
 

shortgrass

Sharpshooter
Joined
Jul 21, 2009
Messages
381
Reaction score
1
Location
Custer County
The thickness of the lug is not the real issue here, although the people that sell them would like you to think it is. The main benifit of the the custom lugs is the fact that they are surface ground on both sides and the hole is 90 deg. to the sides. Factory lugs are stampings and not of equal thickness from one side to the other, sometimes as much as .0015 difference. Custom lugs, being ground, are parallel. When the barrel is torqued on, as in the case of a Remington NOT the Savage, you end up with even tension on the barrel shoulder, a factory lug could cause un-even tension. Even tension is just one more variable removed in building a custom rifle and removing the variables is what it is all about. I don't see how it might benefit a Savage as there is no barrel shoulder, the lock nut does the work. :hey3:
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom