I have just started loading .223 ammo, I have been reloading pistol ammo for years on a progressive but I am finding that this is a whole new ball game, How do you reload in quantity on a progressive? seems to me that you would have to size/deprime/reprime, take the case out of the machine, mic the case, trim and deburr the case if necessary then put it back in the machine to drop the powder, seat the bullet and crimp if you want to crimp. Is this how it is done? Is it that much faster than a single stg. press? Should I invest in a progressive or modify one of my other progressive presses for .223?
Mr45nut has a great step by step on the .223, I think he just uses his single stage press to do the rifle ammo. Here is a link to his page. Take the space out to make it work.
http://www.you tube.com/user/Mr45nut
http://www.you tube.com/user/Mr45nut
I do all my case prep in batches unrelated to loading the rounds themselves. Takes too long if you want to do everything at the same time!
1. Case prep
- Decap
- Stainless steel pin wet tumble / overnight dry
- Resize
- Primer pocket de-crimp
- Trim to length
- tumble to remove lube / overnight dry
2.
- Prime
- Charge
- Seat
1. Case prep
- Decap
- Stainless steel pin wet tumble / overnight dry
- Resize
- Primer pocket de-crimp
- Trim to length
- tumble to remove lube / overnight dry
2.
- Prime
- Charge
- Seat
My procedures and quality control is a little different.
Reloading .223 / 5.56 on a Dillon XL650
I load my rounds in different stages from different toolheads.
Case preparation is very important when loading rifle cases and I always put a lot of effort into it. When I load, I usually load 1000 rounds at a time. I don’t just sit there till I’m done. I’m not in any hurry and will get up and take breaks whenever I feel the need to. I can usually get 1000 rounds loaded in a day.
Step-1. Tumble clean the brass.
Step-2. Case Lubrication. Make sure to lube the inside of the case mouth. I do this using an RCBS Trim Mate with a .22 cal cleaning mop that has case lube rubbed into the mop itself. All I have to do at this point is a rapid dip onto the mop and throw it in a bucket. When I’m done there, I spread the cases out on an old towel and use spray case lube to lube the outside of the cases and I’m done with case lubrication.
Step-3. Case Trimming. Toolhead #1. I start with Dillon’s 1200 case trimmer. I set my trimmer at the appropriate length and I’m done with the trimming. I run all brass through the trimmer. If it needs trimming, it will be trimmed when it goes into the trimmer. If it’s not long enough to be trimmed, the trimmer won’t touch it.
Step-4. Size the case neck. Toolhead #2. I use a Lee universal decapping die mounted on Station-1 because Dillon’s “No BS” warranty will NOT cover decapping pins. Crimped Military brass is rough on decapping pins and Dillon’s pins do not stand up very well. The Lee die costs about $15.00 and is well worth the money. I have the Dillon sizing die on station #4 to properly size the case mouth. The reason I do this is because the 1200 case trimmer die squeezes the cartridge necks inward at the same time it trims the cases. The case necks then have to be expanded to the proper diameter before a bullet can be seated.
Step-5 Primer Pockets. I use a LOT of Military brass that has the primer crimp. I first check the primer pocket with the RCBS swaging tool to see if it needs swaging. If it does, I use the Dillon Swager. If not, I throw it into the bucket ready for the next step.
Step-6. Loading. Toolhead #3 I use another Lee decapping die at station #1 to push any tumble media out of the primer flash hole. Station-2 primes and fills the case with powder. Station-4 seats the bullet and Station-5 puts a crimp on the case neck. I’ve been trying the Lee Factory Crimp Die and so far haven’t had any problems.
I now tumble clean the loaded rounds for about 30 minutes to get all the case lube off and I’m done.
It sounds like a lot of work, but I make some very good quality .223.
Reloading .223 / 5.56 on a Dillon XL650
I load my rounds in different stages from different toolheads.
Case preparation is very important when loading rifle cases and I always put a lot of effort into it. When I load, I usually load 1000 rounds at a time. I don’t just sit there till I’m done. I’m not in any hurry and will get up and take breaks whenever I feel the need to. I can usually get 1000 rounds loaded in a day.
Step-1. Tumble clean the brass.
Step-2. Case Lubrication. Make sure to lube the inside of the case mouth. I do this using an RCBS Trim Mate with a .22 cal cleaning mop that has case lube rubbed into the mop itself. All I have to do at this point is a rapid dip onto the mop and throw it in a bucket. When I’m done there, I spread the cases out on an old towel and use spray case lube to lube the outside of the cases and I’m done with case lubrication.
Step-3. Case Trimming. Toolhead #1. I start with Dillon’s 1200 case trimmer. I set my trimmer at the appropriate length and I’m done with the trimming. I run all brass through the trimmer. If it needs trimming, it will be trimmed when it goes into the trimmer. If it’s not long enough to be trimmed, the trimmer won’t touch it.
Step-4. Size the case neck. Toolhead #2. I use a Lee universal decapping die mounted on Station-1 because Dillon’s “No BS” warranty will NOT cover decapping pins. Crimped Military brass is rough on decapping pins and Dillon’s pins do not stand up very well. The Lee die costs about $15.00 and is well worth the money. I have the Dillon sizing die on station #4 to properly size the case mouth. The reason I do this is because the 1200 case trimmer die squeezes the cartridge necks inward at the same time it trims the cases. The case necks then have to be expanded to the proper diameter before a bullet can be seated.
Step-5 Primer Pockets. I use a LOT of Military brass that has the primer crimp. I first check the primer pocket with the RCBS swaging tool to see if it needs swaging. If it does, I use the Dillon Swager. If not, I throw it into the bucket ready for the next step.
Step-6. Loading. Toolhead #3 I use another Lee decapping die at station #1 to push any tumble media out of the primer flash hole. Station-2 primes and fills the case with powder. Station-4 seats the bullet and Station-5 puts a crimp on the case neck. I’ve been trying the Lee Factory Crimp Die and so far haven’t had any problems.
I now tumble clean the loaded rounds for about 30 minutes to get all the case lube off and I’m done.
It sounds like a lot of work, but I make some very good quality .223.
Tran. You have to take the space between you and tube out. YouTube sometimes gives hassle over posting links.
^^This
Below is my process.
1. Tumble brass for a few hours. inspect brass for cracks etc when removing from tumbler.
2. Lube and de-prime during full length sizing. I have trouble with media clogging the flash hole if I de-prime before tumbling.
3. ream primer pocket - I find this necessary for most 5.56/.223 to ease seating the primer. I use a $9 Hornady primer pocket reamer in a cordless drill.
4. Wash and then dry in dehydrator.
5. check length and trim if necessary - This is not necessary very often.
6. chamfer and debur
7. prime - Be sure to use primers with a fairly hard cup if reloading for AR15.
8. powder charge
9. seat bullet with slight crimp
10. Go to the range and shoot!
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