Stuck engine.

[hemphill]

I’m not sure if your 706 has a torque amplifier, but my International 966 does. Without the engine turning the MCV hydraulic pump in the transmission, it has no brakes, no clutch engagement and barely any steering. So trying to pull to turn engine would not work. I would pull the injectors and the valve covers. You can put some lube down the cylinders that way and if one just has water in it, the water has somewhere to go. Pulling valve covers lets you see which cylinders had open valves. Water probably cqme in through an exhaust valve. I would then try the starter again. If that doesn’t work, I would see if I could get a socket and breaker bar on the front of the crankshaft, or pull the starter and try using a prybar on the flywheel through there. Diesel engines tend not to stick easy, so if the starter can’t spin it over with the injectors out, i would be prepared for the possibility of removing the head. I’m not a professional tractor mechanic, my diesel experience comes from working on Peterbilt trucks mostly. Another option for isolating which cylinder is stuck, would be to pull the oil pan. You would mark and remove your rod caps. Then with a soft punch, brass or hardwood tap each piston rod up. Try not to tear the tractor down more than you are willing to reassemble. Once you get engine freed thoroughly bleed all your injector lines, they will be contaminated with some dust after being off. Check your engine oil for water. If it shows overfull, that usually is not a good sign.

 

[CHenry]

Anybody been down this route and had to use chemicals in the injectors? Trying to figure out what might be the best to get the job done.

I'd use regular motor oil (diesel oil that is)

 

[dennishoddy]

Well, I did a deep dive into YouTube and internet searches. Saw several of the same suggestions reported on here.
Also saw one tractor shop that uses iodine to free them up. Said it’s the best thing ever.
Saw another shop poo-pooing all the old methods to unstick a diesel, recommending Sea Foam Deep Creep. They said it was quick and never fails, so I have some of that on order.
It’s going to be a little while before getting started on this project. Probably fall.
I did check for water in the crankcase by loosening the drain plug in the pan. Only oil came out.

 

[dennishoddy]

I’m not sure if your 706 has a torque amplifier, but my International 966 does. Without the engine turning the MCV hydraulic pump in the transmission, it has no brakes, no clutch engagement and barely any steering. So trying to pull to turn engine would not work. I would pull the injectors and the valve covers. You can put some lube down the cylinders that way and if one just has water in it, the water has somewhere to go. Pulling valve covers lets you see which cylinders had open valves. Water probably cqme in through an exhaust valve. I would then try the starter again. If that doesn’t work, I would see if I could get a socket and breaker bar on the front of the crankshaft, or pull the starter and try using a prybar on the flywheel through there. Diesel engines tend not to stick easy, so if the starter can’t spin it over with the injectors out, i would be prepared for the possibility of removing the head. I’m not a professional tractor mechanic, my diesel experience comes from working on Peterbilt trucks mostly. Another option for isolating which cylinder is stuck, would be to pull the oil pan. You would mark and remove your rod caps. Then with a soft punch, brass or hardwood tap each piston rod up. Try not to tear the tractor down more than you are willing to reassemble. Once you get engine freed thoroughly bleed all your injector lines, they will be contaminated with some dust after being off. Check your engine oil for water. If it shows overfull, that usually is not a good sign.

Exactly. When we tried to break it loose by pulling, it was up a slope as there are no brakes and no steering. We used two 30’ chains so he could evade if needed.

 

[DRC458]

I've used my share of Sea Foam, but I've never heard of the Deep Creep! I might have to get some, just cuz!

 

[Snattlerake]

In the Fall? Why not do it now and let it soak until the Fall and then add fuel, a battery and drive it home?

 

[StLPro2A]

Retired from farming and sold everything but one International 706 diesel tractor, drill, disk and springtooth to put in food plots.
My food plots have grown smaller in size so the Mahindra can take care of everything.
Thought I'd bring the International home, clean it up and sell it.
Gathered up a crew to load it on a 20' trailer if we could get it started, if not use the other truck to pull it up a jack knifed trailer behind my truck.
Getting there, spotted the fuel cap on the ground. with the fuel tank open. Apparently, someone wanted some of the fuel and tried to siphon what they needed.
Don't have a clue how long ago that happened.
Opened the bleeder and drain valves on the fuel filter to drain the tank. Some really ugly stuff came out of there. Drained it dry, and added fresh fuel.
With no batteries, we hooked up both trucks to the battery cables and tried to start. The engine wouldn't budge. Stuck piston/pistons most likely.
Cause? Don't know. Big rain/wind blowing up the exhaust flapper letting water in the exhaust, diesel fuel gelling or what? Don't know.
Hooked up a long heavy chain to buddies truck and tried to break the engine loose by putting it in gear and dumping the clutch. No go. Rear tires just skidded on the ground.
So, now it's time to open the injectors and put some kerosene or something in the cylinders to break up the gum or rust and try to pull start it again. If that doesn't work, probably time to pull the head, and use a 4X4 block and sledge to break the piston/pistons loose. I may have a big heavy piece of scrap iron.

Anybody been down this route and had to use chemicals in the injectors? Trying to figure out what might be the best to get the job done.

Always first pull the injectors/spark plug(s) to check for hydraulic locked cylinder......water/fuel filled cylinder. Check if clutch is free/stuck to flywheel. Check that valves are not stuck open hitting piston. Pressure pre-oiling the engine.....yeah, new oil...... is always a good precaution. For example, on Chevy engines, pull distributor, use rod with end matching oil pump input shaft, driven by a drill motor til oil exits the rocker shafts. I made a oil pump drive from an old distributor, camshaft gear teeth removed, with drill chucked up top. Confirm correct rotation direction for oil pump. Not familiar with your specific tractor, but determine how the oil pump is driven and go from there. As others shared, transmission fluid in cylinders often frees stuck rings, but be sure you don't hydraulic lock the engine with the tranny fluid when you attempt to turn over.....always initial turn over with injectors/plugs out. Check fuel injectors for proper function, as an Injector stuck open can fill cylinder, hydraulic lock engine quickly.

 

[dennishoddy]

In the Fall? Why not do it now and let it soak until the Fall and then add fuel, a battery and drive it home?

I may be on a mission to get the hell away from this heat.

 

[O4L]

Prolly just needs a new battery.

 

[PanhandleGlocker]

I've used my share of Sea Foam, but I've never heard of the Deep Creep! I might have to get some, just cuz!

Wonder how it compares to Kroil.

I used to only use PB Blaster since that’s what my grandad always used and then I started working in the Oilfield and get to use company money to buy stuff so I opted for the more expensive Kroil.

Kroil > PB Blaster