308 subsonics

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iceman755

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Who all who has experimented with subs In 308? Ive shot some 180s and 150s but never had real results. The 150s are sp spitzers. Loaded everything with trailboss and had decent luck. I think it was 8.0-8.5 got the 150s balanced. Anybody else have data or sucessful loads? Ive got a 1-12 twist barrel on this remington im goint to try some even lighter 130gr projos. Any idea or help would be great
 

Huckelberry75

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If you are throwing subs, then your speed limit is about 1050. If you can only go so fast, then you should throw the heavies. I shoot a 20"/10tw and run the 208 amax with 12.5gns and the 220 RN Prohunters with 12.2gns of Trailboss in LC brass (no primer mods). Typically getting ~1moa @ 100 with them, but about a foot lower than my standard loads. The 208's are right at or just a touch above the SB, but to stabilize the long skinny projo, I have to run it just a bit faster. You want to stay away from spitzer boattails, especially with a 12tw bbl. You should try the 150/170 FN bullets for the 30-30 or the 180 RN prohunter. You are looking for as short of a projectile as possible to increase the stability factor. Optimal twist for 308 subs looks to be a 7 or 8 twist bbl (look at 300 blkouts), although I know of some 7.8 & 8tw bbls on .308Wins built by Surgeon that according to the owners shot "lightsout". A chrony is awfully handy, but not essential, and if you dont have a supressor, it's all a waste of your time. if you do, be sure to shoot them w/o a can first to verify that they are stabilized. Look for oblong or key holes in the paper. You want nice round holes, which indicates that they are adequately stabilized and going into the target "pointy side first".
You are better served to start too fast and work your way down in powder charges, b/c a stuck bullet in the barrel can wreck your day if you don't know that it didn't exit. Check after every shot if you don't see/hear impact and invest in a piece of steel all thread and wrap in electricians tape from homedepot/lowes for knocking out "stucks", if you can find a bit of solid brass rod instead, all the better. Cheaper than replacing the nice cleaning rods that will snap when you get to hammering on them.

Have fun, and let us know how it goes for you.
 

iceman755

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Huckleberry thanks for the reminder lol ive done lots of testing before w a 1-10 twist with good success. I was more wondering if anyones had luck with any in the 1-12 twist. Ive got both the 180gr rn and the 130gr im going to test are for 3030 so im already halfway down that path. Ive always started high and gone down and never had a stick so im lucky but its very important to make sure you dont. Ive got a thunderbeast 30p-1 that ive bounces some off the baffles before so I know what its like to rebuild. I was having shoulder issues with that gun though. Ive had luck with both the 150sp flat bottom and the 180 rn but no grouping though.
 

iceman755

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So I used 130gr rn 30-30 projos and they were stable at 100yards from 8.0-9.0gr trail boss. Anything above 9 might go super haven't tried yet. Nor tryed for accuracy. Will test some more this weekend
 

Cedar Creek

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Without knowing your intended use I'n not sure what to recommend, but I guess cast loads may be too dirty to use with a can? My first choice for jacketed if shooting thin-skinned targets with soft tissue would be the 170 grain .30-30 bullets because they would probably be easier to slow down to the level you need and the thinner jacket should give better performance. If a lighter .30-30 bullet will work my choice would be the Sierra 125 grain HP FlatNose.

Good Luck! let us know what works best; I'm not a can man, but always experimenting with light loads for use around my place on armadillers, etc. I'm getting acquainted with a new Ruger American Compact .308 that could be a good companion for me with light loads. I was thinking cast or 170 grain CoreLokts over TrailBoss because I have quite a bit of all the ingredients.

Cedar Creek
 

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