Well now I'm leaning toward a fal. Like I said I've had one and they are pretty rugged. Also saw a quad rail I could attach for accessories. Maybe find a good deal on one and still pick up that Romak3 or a Cheap AK.
get an M1A
Have an M1A Scout Squad and just picked up an FAL - haven't shot either and am going to run them through a few paces this weekend. While I was picking up the FAL, the dealer handed me a brand new, optics-ready DPMS Panther in .308 and asked me to look it over before I plunked down the money for the FAL. Shouldered it, and looked down the top of the receiver, and immediately noticed the gas block was cocked to the left. I figure if they can't get that right - that which is right there in plain sight (no pun intended) - what did they overlook on the inside? I hear how accurate and awesome the AR10-types are, but for me, I'd go M1A or FAL. Then again, I don't intend to match shoot with them, either.
personally i havent but they hold 10 rounds, go bang everytime but they arent super accurate, maybe 2-3 moa on average, now if you could find some russian 7N1 ball you might be able to get 1 moa
I would steer shy of the SOCOMS I haven't seen many of them run very well and I have sure seen a couple of the same ones sold quite a few times. The Scout squad and full size seem to run A LOT better. As for the difference between the FAL and the M1A, the sights are the telling component. The M1A's sights are FAR Superior to the FAL's and the sight radius of the M1A is quite a bit longer. BTW there is no good way to scope an FAL either
To answer Backup12ga's question. All 2nd and 3rd generation scope mounts for the M1A require the stripper clip guide to be removed and replaced with the second anchor point of the scope mount. Now this is just a dovetailed slot that has a roll pin in the middle of it to keep it from sliding left or right. No matter how you do it this piece will ALWAYS be moving a bit and it causes the zero to wonder all over the place. If you want to do it right you need to locate this part and have it tig welded into place.
Next the front anchor point on the M1A is a single screw that goes into a T shaped slot that is designed with a slight tapper so when you screw the mount down tight kind of self wedges to remain tight, only problem is that under recoil this little interface will peen the contact area and cause wondering zero until the interface of the two parts reaches a point where the peening action stops, anywhere from 300-800 rounds....or you take the receiver with an appropriate action block inserted and a BIG dead blow hammer and pound the hell out of the mount as it is sitting on the receiver to do it with out the frustration of "fire forming" the mount. Then there is the stock and no one makes a good cheek piece to mount on the stock cause with the optic on there the scope sits WAY too high and you can't get a cheek weld.
The FLA has it's own problems in this area as well as the only way to scope one is to replace the top dust cover with one machined with a picatiny rail already in place. It slides into two slots in the receiver and there is just no good way to make this interface tight enough to keep a scope in line. KurtM
To answer Backup12ga's question. All 2nd and 3rd generation scope mounts for the M1A require the stripper clip guide to be removed and replaced with the second anchor point of the scope mount. Now this is just a dovetailed slot that has a roll pin in the middle of it to keep it from sliding left or right. No matter how you do it this piece will ALWAYS be moving a bit and it causes the zero to wonder all over the place. If you want to do it right you need to locate this part and have it tig welded into place.
Next the front anchor point on the M1A is a single screw that goes into a T shaped slot that is designed with a slight tapper so when you screw the mount down tight kind of self wedges to remain tight, only problem is that under recoil this little interface will peen the contact area and cause wondering zero until the interface of the two parts reaches a point where the peening action stops, anywhere from 300-800 rounds....or you take the receiver with an appropriate action block inserted and a BIG dead blow hammer and pound the hell out of the mount as it is sitting on the receiver to do it with out the frustration of "fire forming" the mount. Then there is the stock and no one makes a good cheek piece to mount on the stock cause with the optic on there the scope sits WAY too high and you can't get a cheek weld.
The FLA has it's own problems in this area as well as the only way to scope one is to replace the top dust cover with one machined with a picatiny rail already in place. It slides into two slots in the receiver and there is just no good way to make this interface tight enough to keep a scope in line. KurtM
I have a SOCOM 16 and love the thing. LOVE IT. I have a few friends that have M1A Scouts and M1A and another SOCOM II. None of us have problems with any model of the rifle. I have a scope mounted in the "scout" position and I have hit plates out to and a little further than 500 yards away. EASY. It recoils like a wild horse and spits a ball of fire out the muzzle but it is accurate and reliable. I do however like to ergonomics of the AR and if I had to do this all over again I would get a DPMS or Armalite in .308 instead.
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