Bushnell 4200 Tactical?

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ez bake

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I believe the OP is asking about a First Focal Plane reticle which is accurate at every power magnification.

Is there a reason you want an FFP scope? I only ask because I thought I wanted the same thing a while back and after looking through a friends at lower power magnification levels, I quickly changed my mind. The reticle is so fine/small that its almost impossible to measure against for range finding, so anything at the lower powers of magnification were basically of no more use than cross-hairs to me.

I imagine that I could learn to use an FFP optic at lower power magnifications with practice, but if you've got a non-FFP scope that goes from 10x to 20x (and the reticle is accurate at 10x), you can just use each mil measurement and cut it in half at 20x - that usually takes care of everything at 500ft and further while the 10x magnification level is good for under 500ft range-finding.

I've found that by doing this, I'm way more accurate on my measurements anyways.

Personally, I'm not a fan of MOA reticles and I'm also not a fan of Mil-based knobs (just a personal preference because that's what I learned on). I've heard a lot of folks going the Mil/Mil route, or the MOA/MOA route, but I've never understood the appeal.
 

buster11

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I think one advantage of mil/mil or moa/moa based scopes is in some competitions they allow a sighter shot. You shoot at the bull and use your reticle to measure how far you are off. Lets say you didn't dial enough elevation and and you wind call was dead on. Hold on origanal point of aim and use reticle to measure, if your 3 mills lowl, you dial exactly 3 mills up on you scope and you're done. This assumes you can see your point of impact. If you have a mill base ret, and moa knobs, knowing your exactly 3 mills low doesn't help you much unless you want to convert mills to moa. I'm sure this could have been explained in a much simpler way. This could be applied in many different situations.
 

ez bake

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I think one advantage of mil/mil or moa/moa based scopes is in some competitions they allow a sighter shot. You shoot at the bull and use your reticle to measure how far you are off. Lets say you didn't dial enough elevation and and you wind call was dead on. Hold on origanal point of aim and use reticle to measure, if your 3 mills lowl, you dial exactly 3 mills up on you scope and you're done. This assumes you can see your point of impact. If you have a mill base ret, and moa knobs, knowing your exactly 3 mills low doesn't help you much unless you want to convert mills to moa. I'm sure this could have been explained in a much simpler way. This could be applied in many different situations.

I get that, but I just don't see the problem with doing the math in either MOA or Mils and/or converting. I'd rather know how to do both just in case I ever had to use a scope that had "the other" from what I was used to.

Like I said, its just a personal preference, but I don't mind converting or doing either/or (then again, I don't shoot competition long-range, so time is rarely a factor for me).
 

StammesOpfer

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I think that adjusting in moa is easier for most of us since it matches inches so well while mils match up with metric math better. Neither is actually metric or imperial but they work better with one or the other. I don't mind doing the conversion but it is my preference to have my reticle match that way all my ballistic tables will be in mils and if I need to change my range or account for wind on the fly then I can do it in the same unit of measure on my reticle or knobs not having to worry about what zoom I am at (FFP) or thinking moa vs mil. That is my thinking.
 

Ksmirk

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Get a Mil-Dot master! AWESOME little tool that you'll learn to love but you still have to range your target correctly and get your REAL drop chart set up or your just guessing. The shooting I am doing you don't get a sighter so you must read your target distance, dial in the range, dope the wind and hope you were right since you get one chance at a hit. I have seen some guys that make hits on plates (head shot is 8x8) way out there everytime on the first shot! yeah talk about shrinking your swollen head! I got put in my place real quick :smash: I would love yo just dump the money on a Nightforce or IOR but ya know my tax return wasn't that great and my budget is not that healthy. I was told about another scope that people are saying is a good one but have never heard anything about them Clearidge Ultra XP5 4.5-22.5x50 might be something to look at? anyone ever mess with one? Later,

Kirk
 

StammesOpfer

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Well I got the IOR bought it on ebay cause I could get 10% cash back with bing.com cashback (thank you microsoft) Company was Action Concepts can't wait to take a look down the tube.

Btw I have used the bing cashback before makes it worth going to ebay even it the prices are no better. Ebays buyer protection has gotten better too no worries about the products.
 

ENC

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What power setting do you read mils with on the 6500? I need to find this information since I use the mils for ranging targets. Later,

Kirk

On my 2.5-16 6500, the mils are read at power setting 10 looking at known objects this shows to be right but I haven't had a chance to compare my Leupy side by side to see if it is right on the nose or a little off.

Evan
 

Shadowrider

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Well I got the IOR bought it on ebay cause I could get 10% cash back with bing.com cashback (thank you microsoft) Company was Action Concepts can't wait to take a look down the tube.

Btw I have used the bing cashback before makes it worth going to ebay even it the prices are no better. Ebays buyer protection has gotten better too no worries about the products.

Does this apply to forgeries? (I.E. Fakepoints)
 

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