Cast bullet lubing and sizing?

[SparkyGator]

I just acquired a couple sizing and lubing presses for cast bullets. I know absolutely nothing about it. Where can I go to gain some knowledge and and get pointers. I’ve only ever cast round balls but have other molds. Any tips are greatly appreciated

 

[Shadowrider]

Tons of youtube videos. Also http://castboolits.gunloads.com/forum.php has a plethora of help.

 

[swampratt]

About the same as round ball casting except molds need to be warmed a bit more sometimes to get the bullets to fill out all the way.
Or the alloy used needs more tin in it to make nice edges on the bullets.
You must watch carefully on the face of the molds for lead flecks that get there time to time.
Your bullet mold will not close all the way and you will have a parting line on the bullet with wings on it.

I keep a wash cloth on my lap and wipe the lead off the mold faces if I see any.
Too much heat in the mold will allow lead to smear across the top under the sprue cutter palte.

Let the mold cool some more if this happens.
Oils in the mold cavities will not allow pretty bullets to come out.
Tap on the mold with a wood stick if bullets are sticking.. do not use a metal rod to do the tapping.

I had a luber sizer and did not like using it at all.
I like the Lee push through sizers.
I also have no issues with Lee liquid alox for bullet lube.

But the last year or so I have been powder coating my lead bullets with harbor freight Red powder coat and have no leading at all in my barrels.
If I was to shoot rapid fire 10 or more rounds with lead bullets I would begin to get a tiny bit of lead build up If i kept doing that i would really have some build up.
No matter bullet diameter or lube or alloy used.
But powder coating cured that.

You will find too hard of an alloy may not bump up to the rifling grooves well and cause leading as will sending a bullet too fast.
It is an experiment for sure.
Now sending it too fast causes the bullet to skid down the bore instead of bumping up into the rifling and it will come out of the bore with no rifling grooves and look more like you sanded it with 60 grit sandpaper.

At least with my 45acp I experimented with.
And another thing you will see is on the paper target.. the paper will be torn or have an imprint of the side of the bullet.

I have a load that sends the bullets like that tumbling out of the bore and at 20 paces it is quite accurate with that stubby 200gr 45acp bullet.
No defining grooves from a barrel rifling and smacking the target while tumbling is sometimes beneficial.
But man the lead build up.

So to make the lead bullets grip the rifling instead of skid down the bore you have an option on some bullets to add a gas check to the base of the bullet.
This check grips the rifling and allows the bullet to spin instead of skid and velocity can be increased.

You can water drop the bullets to allow them to harden quicker.
I use a 5 gallon bucket filled 6" from the top with water and a dish towel in the bottom of the bucket for softer landing.
Some alloys harden quicker than others.

I keep crimp on wheel weights separated from softer stick on weights. For 45 acp and 38 special i can use a mix of soft and hard lead.
For max load 357 magnum 170 gr and 1376 fps I use straight clip on wheel weights and gas checks.
Same alloy for my 30-06 (1400fps) or 30-30 (1950 fps) 170 gr. Lee Alox was used on those. Very accurate and cheap fun.

I use Red Dot powder in the 30-06 and have used many powders in the cast 30-30 that include H4350 ,3031, Varget, BLC-2.
Imr 4064, and 2400.
H4350 was max filled and 1800fps was max velocity very accurate load. Varget was accurate as well.

A universal neck expanding die will be your friend if loading cast bullets in a rifle.
You do not want to peel lead off the bullet as it enters the case.

Hope some of the above helps you out.

 

[SparkyGator]

I may look into the powder coat if my leading gets to be an issue. Cast is an adventure I’m willing to take. A wealth of information, thank you. I may hit you up if I have questions or issues

 

[swampratt]

Feel free to send me a PM if you have any questions. I have been melting lead for over 35 years.
I bet many here have that and much more years than that under their belt.

 

[DRC458]

You two ain't that far part!

 

[swampratt]

Yea not compared to Enid

 

[Uncle TK]

RCBS or Lyman base down sizers are very slow

Star Nose Down Sizer and Lubber is the only way to go. Very Fast