It is compared to a ruger,rem,win,sako, etc. I think all of the Lawton actions are like that if I remember right. Nice looking rifle John Brown, welcome by the way!
It is compared to a ruger,rem,win,sako, etc. I think all of the Lawton actions are like that if I remember right. Nice looking rifle John Brown, welcome by the way!
Welcome to the site. Rifle and stock look really nice. Now we need target pics.
Reading some of your other posts it seems you bring a lot of knowledge here. Welcome
Reading some of your other posts it seems you bring a lot of knowledge here. Welcome
J
John Brown
Guest
Thanks again for all the kind words. Seems to be a really nice group here. 
This is what I do. It takes a lot of time, but it produces a decent finish.
The pics I put up were taken with an old camera phone and really dont show the work very well.
This job was done a little bassackwards, Rex kinda sprung it on me and bedded the barreled action first, but it wasnt a problem, I just taped off his bedding job.
Several applications of chemical stripper are usually needed, getting ALL the old finish off is a PITA.
Outline any checkering pattern to be saved with a deep cut. The plan is later scrape away everything inside the outline and cut new checkering deeper inside the outline.
Use a file and card scrapers to shape the comb, pistol grip and foregrip areas as desired, then re-cut the flutes and edges of the cheek piece to get crisp lines.
Cut an outline for the new areas to be checkered, like under the pistol grip on this rifle. Later this will be scraped deeper and checkered.
Progressively sand everything down to 800 grit, then one last time with 0000 steel wool. Use a sanding block every chance you get. Every time you steel wool use a magnet to remove all the steel fibers.
Tung Oil/Varnish Finish-
Do no more than one coat a day and use 0000 steel wool between coats, clean up with a magnet and rag.
Try to stay out of the areas to be checkered with finish, it clogs and dulls the checkering tools.
Thin the first couple of coats of tung oil 50/50 (or thinner) with mineral spirits to help them soak into the wood.
put 2- 3 oz. of tung oil in a small bottle. A plastic bottle you can squeeze the air out of to prevent the finish from drying in the bottle is best.
Using 100% tung oil wet sand the next few coats before they dry, work on one small area at a time, when you get a slurry of sawdust and tung oil smear it lightly across the grain to fill the wood, leave it till the next day.
After 4-5 coats of straight tung oil start adding Formbys Tung Oil Finish to the bottle after every coat to replace the tung oil used. Formbys is actually a wiping varnish made from and containing a little tung oil, not pure tung oil.
As the tung oil is replaced in the bottle with Formbys the coats start building, you will see it.
When then amount of build up suits you its time to move on to the checkering and let it dry a few days.
Using small scrapers, work inside the deep outline cuts made earlier and remove the old checkering. Take the wood down inside the areas where new checkering is going to match the depth of the wood where checkering was removed. Make sure you have a flat tight surface to work with and re-checker the stock.
Use a few of coats of thinned tung oil to seal the checkering when complete. Be careful not to gum up your checkering with finish.
Polish all uncheckered areas with rottenstone or similar compound. Let it dry overnight.
For an oil finish feel go back and hand rub a small amount of 100% tung oil into the finished stock.
This is what I do. It takes a lot of time, but it produces a decent finish.
The pics I put up were taken with an old camera phone and really dont show the work very well.
This job was done a little bassackwards, Rex kinda sprung it on me and bedded the barreled action first, but it wasnt a problem, I just taped off his bedding job.
Several applications of chemical stripper are usually needed, getting ALL the old finish off is a PITA.
Outline any checkering pattern to be saved with a deep cut. The plan is later scrape away everything inside the outline and cut new checkering deeper inside the outline.
Use a file and card scrapers to shape the comb, pistol grip and foregrip areas as desired, then re-cut the flutes and edges of the cheek piece to get crisp lines.
Cut an outline for the new areas to be checkered, like under the pistol grip on this rifle. Later this will be scraped deeper and checkered.
Progressively sand everything down to 800 grit, then one last time with 0000 steel wool. Use a sanding block every chance you get. Every time you steel wool use a magnet to remove all the steel fibers.
Tung Oil/Varnish Finish-
Do no more than one coat a day and use 0000 steel wool between coats, clean up with a magnet and rag.
Try to stay out of the areas to be checkered with finish, it clogs and dulls the checkering tools.
Thin the first couple of coats of tung oil 50/50 (or thinner) with mineral spirits to help them soak into the wood.
put 2- 3 oz. of tung oil in a small bottle. A plastic bottle you can squeeze the air out of to prevent the finish from drying in the bottle is best.
Using 100% tung oil wet sand the next few coats before they dry, work on one small area at a time, when you get a slurry of sawdust and tung oil smear it lightly across the grain to fill the wood, leave it till the next day.
After 4-5 coats of straight tung oil start adding Formbys Tung Oil Finish to the bottle after every coat to replace the tung oil used. Formbys is actually a wiping varnish made from and containing a little tung oil, not pure tung oil.
As the tung oil is replaced in the bottle with Formbys the coats start building, you will see it.
When then amount of build up suits you its time to move on to the checkering and let it dry a few days.
Using small scrapers, work inside the deep outline cuts made earlier and remove the old checkering. Take the wood down inside the areas where new checkering is going to match the depth of the wood where checkering was removed. Make sure you have a flat tight surface to work with and re-checker the stock.
Use a few of coats of thinned tung oil to seal the checkering when complete. Be careful not to gum up your checkering with finish.
Polish all uncheckered areas with rottenstone or similar compound. Let it dry overnight.
For an oil finish feel go back and hand rub a small amount of 100% tung oil into the finished stock.
Yea, Its a standard Lawton bolt. Its a little longer but looks longer than it is because it doesnt stick out away from the rifle much. I bent it down to clear the scope.
Funny you should mention that I was planning on doing a little shooting today, damn the rain. Right now Ive pretty much got a load worked up. Im shooting 95gr. Bergers with more 7828ssc than Im willing to admit too. I will say there isnt much danger of me getting anymore powder into the case. Groups started closing up with an occasional cloverleaf at about the same time the cases got full. The load chronographs over 3300fps.
Similar threads
