It won’t be. I think that’s a tohatsu motor. Very popular outboard. Reliable and easy to maintain. A few hundred dollars will put in a nice wiring job.
I figure it shouldn’t be too much of a money pit. Hopefully.
I figured it would be the perfect size. I wouldn’t have minded a little wider, but I got this for a steal.
Even with today’s wild prices I should be in the whole renovation for under 1000, less if I can find a cheaper source for aluminum. And that’s using all nice stuff, and the extra stuff, like a bilge pump, hydroturf decking, new paint, installing a new switch panel and fuse boxwith marine wiring, etc.
Didn't read all of the post but here is my .02 pesos worth. With the plug, as opposed to what others have said, insert the plug from the inside of the boat. Get some 550 cord and tie it to the plug "T" that you twist to tighten it and then tie the other end to the outboard bracket so it doesn't get lost. Then buy a second and third plug. One to keep in a compartment in the boat and a third to keep in your trucks glove box. For life vests I'd buy two auto/manual inflatable vest and the rest standard type. They wear better and more comfortable and some have lights built in to help rescuers find you floating in the water at night. I'd also invest in a nice waterproof backpack or rolltop duffle to keep survival supplies in it and an extra change of clothing and windbreaker or light jacket. Make sure you buy a good portable external battery pack and appropriate charging cord for your model phone to be able to charge your cell phone if you get lost or stranded. Never want your phone to die on you if you are in trouble. Lastly, since it is a jon boat, many have open space in under the front, middle and rear bench seats that you can use spray foam to fully inject into those spaces to keep your boat floating even if fully swamped. This could literally be a lifesaver.
Pretty much planning on having, or already have most of the things you mentioned. Do you have suggestions on brands for the auto life jackets?
with my rewiring of the boat I’m using a switch panel that not only has a 12v power port, but also USB.
I’ve read that spray foam is not closed cell? I’m planning on using expanded polystyrene board under my planned aluminum floor and in unused gaps under seats (if there isn’t already foam there and shoved into spots under my planned storage area/deck. I forget what the formulas were, but if I remember right I’m estimating that I’m getting rid of 30lbs and adding 5-600lbs worth of floatation. I’ve seen a few guys who have been swamped by waves or some jerk in a wakeboarding boat, and the foam saved not only their hide, but the boat and all the gear too. They just putted to the shore, bailed out the boat, and got back after it.
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The West Marine brand is a good value. Unfortunately, you don't have a store in central OK. Only one in OK is in Tulsa.
I’m not opposed to a trip. Need to get the old lady’s ring resized in Tulsa and probably grab some more Hawaiian BBQ from F’s off of East 31st. Man I love that place. Green Country Arms and Pawn next door always seems to have something I take home too.
This is a "point". Terrain descends either gradually or quickly to depth. Hides submerged bar with possible large shallow rocks! Stay wide. Avoid temptation to cut close. Hull and prop will confirm poor clearance choices.
Thunderbird.... but you knew that.
Thunderbird.... but you knew that.
Great looking boat BTW. Much nicer that what i thought in the beginning of the thread. For the vest. I've only worn them a few times and don't remember the brands but remember they were super comfortable for being a life vest. Even if you have 12v and USB port on the boat those could become useless in the event of a electrical issue or other incident. Still recommend a portable power pack for charging cells.
