how to fit a 1911 beavertail

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Traxxis

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He does a very good job with that, and the finished product is fantastic... but speaking from experience... it ain't that easy. :) But it is a good little project.

After reading that and seeing what a custom fitted BTGS looks like (and knowing what to look for), go to the gun store and look at the Kimbers and Springers...
 

Wall

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He does a very good job with that, and the finished product is fantastic... but speaking from experience... it ain't that easy. :) But it is a good little project.

After reading that and seeing what a custom fitted BTGS looks like (and knowing what to look for), go to the gun store and look at the Kimbers and Springers...

He did an outstanding job, factory doesn't look quite as nice as hand fitted (properly) does it? Those are some great tips & instructions but you're right, it aint that easy. Kind of like watching American Chopper or any of the 4x4 or performance-how-to shows.

I wish I'd had them the first time I tried it. I'll be reviewing them next time though.

I put that entire thread into a word doc for myself in case the thread or pics get removed or whatever.
If anybody wants it let me know.
 

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He does a very good job with that, and the finished product is fantastic... but speaking from experience... it ain't that easy. :) But it is a good little project.

After reading that and seeing what a custom fitted BTGS looks like (and knowing what to look for), go to the gun store and look at the Kimbers and Springers...

the hand fitting looks much better to me... I've got a springfield GI that I'll be trying that on as soon as I order the beavertail and jig. I'm gonna take it really slow since it'll be my first attempt at it.
 

Wall

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the hand fitting looks much better to me... I've got a springfield GI that I'll be trying that on as soon as I order the beavertail and jig. I'm gonna take it really slow since it'll be my first attempt at it.

Good luck, take your time.
It'll be sweet when you're done.
 

Traxxis

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the hand fitting looks much better to me... I've got a springfield GI that I'll be trying that on as soon as I order the beavertail and jig. I'm gonna take it really slow since it'll be my first attempt at it.

I thought about picking one of those jigs up, but I figured I'll probably never do it again. I have a neighbor who shot my Nighthawk, which of course has a beaver tale high grip on it with a "memory" pad. He had an old Norinco that he gave $150 for it 20 years ago, brand new, lol. He wasn't worried about messing it up and we felt adventurous. I'll tell you though, lol, it didn't look anything like his.... I didn't read the whole thing, but it sure looked like he's done several of them.

Heck, I didn't even have a dremel, just a couple crosscut files, a few diamond files and various grits of sand paper... took for fricken ever. :nono2:
 

Traxxis

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He did an outstanding job, factory doesn't look quite as nice as hand fitted (properly) does it? Those are some great tips & instructions but you're right, it aint that easy. Kind of like watching American Chopper or any of the 4x4 or performance-how-to shows.

I wish I'd had them the first time I tried it. I'll be reviewing them next time though.

I put that entire thread into a word doc for myself in case the thread or pics get removed or whatever.
If anybody wants it let me know.

Oh you ain't kidding they look better. That's one of the most obvious details that really sets a production 1911 apart from a custom one. Although, until people see something like that, most of the time they'll never know the difference. I can't tell you how many people have given me a retarded look when they ask what makes my Nighthawk so special and one of the things I show them is the grip safety and the rear of the slide. The amount of hand finishing in a quality true custom gun is incredible, regardless of the manufacturer.

Perfect analogy with the 4x4 shows... wish I woulda though about it myself! :ugh2: And I agree, I wish I woulda had that when I did Gene's Norinco, lol.


Ahh... it feels good to get back to the other forums.
 

Dr. Barry Greyson

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FYI...

The technique is good but the final result, eventhough it looks great, is not totally functional at the web of the hand for some people. The lower contour under the thumb safety should have been blended with the grip safety while depressed in the frame with the sear spring in place as it sits in the gun. That way the "blend line" is finished out smooth with the frame tangs when you grab the grip and depress the safety. The way he has it, the edge at the back of the curvature will come down past the frame tangs and can catch the fleshy part of the web of the hand. If you shoot for any length of time it will cut or irritate the hand. The exposed edge is usually very sharp unless it is blunted and then the line isn't perfect. By blending with the GS depressed which leaves a small step it usually does not destroy the lines and still looks good and is functional by not allowing the grip safety to protrude below the frame tangs when depressed. Usually the upper curvature is blended with the GS in the nondepressed position and the lower curvature as I described.
Barry
 

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