The door is single layer of 3/16" steel rolled at the ends for strength. If you do this short of thing I'd like to call you in the morning.
The door is single layer of 3/16" steel rolled at the ends for strength. If you do this short of thing I'd like to call you in the morning.
PM sent.
a piece of box tubing cut in half and welded to door on other side of hole with hole cut out for the bolt of lock to go through and into frame.
Great idea, I was thinking about some "U" channel but I like yours better.
Thanks.
Like I said. A good Bi-Metal hole saw like a Lenox would cut through it nicely. A little cutting oil would help but is not absolutely necessary. Just go slow ( speed and feed) Now, a Carbide tipped hole saw would do a better job but they are going to cost more too. This one on the Bay is super cheap and might do a good job for the one time you'll probably use it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...akeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en
Electrical hole punches are designed for 10 Ga. maximum Cap. and a 2" die punches a 2.5" hole. There are hydraulic punches out there that will do it but they are very expensive and I'm sure would tweak the door a fraction.
Is the door an in-swing or out-swing? Have you considered what the bolt is going to catch on the jam side of the door?
The box tubing is a good idea. I can get you piece and half it if you have a way weld it to the door.
Ok now for the crazy idea. I think I could hold the door with Mag locks and a power supply with a backup battery behind it. Add a keypad a bam now there is access for everyone without the fear of kiddos being locked out when parental are out. Plus a keypad could be audited to see who had come in and out of the room.
Electrical hole punches are designed for 10 Ga. maximum Cap. and a 2" die punches a 2.5" hole. There are hydraulic punches out there that will do it but they are very expensive and I'm sure would tweak the door a fraction.
Is the door an in-swing or out-swing? Have you considered what the bolt is going to catch on the jam side of the door?
The box tubing is a good idea. I can get you piece and half it if you have a way weld it to the door.
Ok now for the crazy idea. I think I could hold the door with Mag locks and a power supply with a backup battery behind it. Add a keypad a bam now there is access for everyone without the fear of kiddos being locked out when parental are out. Plus a keypad could be audited to see who had come in and out of the room.
G
green_machine
Guest
3/16 shouldn't be too bad for 1 or two whole saws on a drill with some w-d40. but normal dead bolts require a thicker mating surface(atleast the ones I'm thinking of). so might have to weld on a thicker piece for it... if all else fails and IF the door can come off. I could modify it. if a magnet sticks to it, I can cut it and weld it. 
3/16 shouldn't be too bad for 1 or two whole saws on a drill with some w-d40. but normal dead bolts require a thicker mating surface(atleast the ones I'm thinking of). so might have to weld on a thicker piece for it... if all else fails and IF the door can come off. I could modify it. if a magnet sticks to it, I can cut it and weld it.
The hole will not be a problem even if I have to burn a hole saw or two or buy a carbide tipped hole saw.
I have not made up my mind on the locks yet, I am starting to think that if I go through all this trouble, I might as well get a good set. The hole diameter and the size of the back up arrangement depends on the locks, so I have to decide on those first.
Thanks for your support.
Never heard of Abloy or Mul-T-Lock, I'm checking it out.
The Mul-T-Lock is advertised as bump proof. Interesting.
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