We just keep the seed packets in a coffee can. Keeps the seeds segregated and easily identifiable, this can important with things like corn. Certain varieties don't mix well / cross pollinate. We have been very diligent in acquiring heirloom / organic / Non-GM seeds, also.
not air tight, not bug tight.
Maybe for year to year seed saving it would be ok, but with the temp/humidty extremes in our state, you would get a lot of sprouts really quick unless you kept it in your fridge. and a coffee can with ziplocks and a good lid will take up less space and hold more seeds than one of those in the back of the fridge.
Maybe for year to year seed saving it would be ok, but with the temp/humidty extremes in our state, you would get a lot of sprouts really quick unless you kept it in your fridge. and a coffee can with ziplocks and a good lid will take up less space and hold more seeds than one of those in the back of the fridge.
agreed, but for short term storage or for flower seeds etc it would be great.
one could maybe vac seal the whole thing up to extend the shelf life.
Or vac the seeds themselves (as a group) and put that packet in each compartment?
If you put them in ziplock baggies too this would be a good idea.
Good idea. I like it.
You could vacu pack the entire container, but the corners pose a tear hazard over time.
My best recommendation if you are serious about long term seed viability and want to maximize organization
use 1.5x2 inch baggies like these
http://www.amazon.com/Clear-Lock-Ba...=1383510872&sr=8-6&keywords=mini+ziplock+bags (yes they are popular for other purposes, but they work for regular seeds just fine)
Place your seeds into this with 1 o2 absorber then press it and zip it
then place these into a food saver bag and make a "flat pack garden" or organize it by planting times etc.
cole crops/cool weather crops in one
late spring early summer crops in one
late summer early fall crops in one
winter crops in another
Then take these 4 "flat packs" and place them into a mylar bag again with O2 absorbers, seal it and stick it in your vegetable crisper drawer.
If the seed was viable the day you put it in, then with this method it should be viable in 5 or 10 years or more.
Additionally only use open pollinated or "heirloom" seed (hybrid heirlooms are ok as are some modern ones as long as the seed will be true) this will help ensure you have your garden for years to come, with the oppurtunity to expand the following year/season with your saved seed if one pack was not enough to feed your family, and you should start now, no matter where you are practicing, even if its just learnign how to do tomato transplants in a container on your patio, or turning a clear rubbermade 20 gallon tote into a mini green house to grow you lettuce/chard/greens mixes on your porch. These small steps will teach you that seed savign is not cut and dry, that transplant are ot gurasnteed, and it will teach you MOST IMPORTANTLY what your family will and will not eat out of the garden.
P.S. if you cannot store them in your vegetable crisper, then in a plastic seal container in the coolest darkest place you can find, with minimal temp flunctuation, like a storm shelter.
My best recommendation if you are serious about long term seed viability and want to maximize organization
use 1.5x2 inch baggies like these
http://www.amazon.com/Clear-Lock-Ba...=1383510872&sr=8-6&keywords=mini+ziplock+bags (yes they are popular for other purposes, but they work for regular seeds just fine)
Place your seeds into this with 1 o2 absorber then press it and zip it
then place these into a food saver bag and make a "flat pack garden" or organize it by planting times etc.
cole crops/cool weather crops in one
late spring early summer crops in one
late summer early fall crops in one
winter crops in another
Then take these 4 "flat packs" and place them into a mylar bag again with O2 absorbers, seal it and stick it in your vegetable crisper drawer.
If the seed was viable the day you put it in, then with this method it should be viable in 5 or 10 years or more.
Additionally only use open pollinated or "heirloom" seed (hybrid heirlooms are ok as are some modern ones as long as the seed will be true) this will help ensure you have your garden for years to come, with the oppurtunity to expand the following year/season with your saved seed if one pack was not enough to feed your family, and you should start now, no matter where you are practicing, even if its just learnign how to do tomato transplants in a container on your patio, or turning a clear rubbermade 20 gallon tote into a mini green house to grow you lettuce/chard/greens mixes on your porch. These small steps will teach you that seed savign is not cut and dry, that transplant are ot gurasnteed, and it will teach you MOST IMPORTANTLY what your family will and will not eat out of the garden.
P.S. if you cannot store them in your vegetable crisper, then in a plastic seal container in the coolest darkest place you can find, with minimal temp flunctuation, like a storm shelter.
