reloading scares

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NikatKimber

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~.13 for jacketed rounds, ~ .10 for cast lead bullets. (per round)

I got primers for $3/100, powder for pistol rounds is about .01-.02 per round, plus bullets. I got Montana Gold jacketed 9mm for just less than .08/bullet.

9mm is not as much as a saver as other rounds. .38 spl is about the same for cost, compared to much higher cost for factory. .45 acp also saves a lot more than 9mm. Rifle rounds are a lot cheaper too.
 

sabot_round

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~.13 for jacketed rounds, ~ .10 for cast lead bullets. (per round)

I got primers for $3/100, powder for pistol rounds is about .01-.02 per round, plus bullets. I got Montana Gold jacketed 9mm for just less than .08/bullet.

9mm is not as much as a saver as other rounds. .38 spl is about the same for cost, compared to much higher cost for factory. .45 acp also saves a lot more than 9mm. Rifle rounds are a lot cheaper too.

Even cheaper if you cast your own and buy primers in bulk.
 

NikatKimber

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Yeah, I got SP primers $115/5k, and was using cast lead bullets that my f-i-l cast until just recently. Those .38s were cheap. I was using leftover powder from when he was reloading - years ago - and brass that he had.

So my only cost for .38s when I started reloading was primers. So I shot .38 spl for ~.03/round.
 

Randall

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Worst mistake I've made is to not charge a case or two. It was pretty obvious a pipsqueek pop from the primer and a curl of smoke. cleared it nad found the obstruction. Tapped it out with a hard wood dowel and went back to shooting.QUOTE]

Thats the extent of my mistakes in almost 30 years of reloading.Plus not priming a case or two. I always look for over charging but undercharges don't get my attention as much.
Randall
 

ssgrock3

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Extremelly difficult to over charge a 9mm with unique. If it flows down the side it is a +p, but still not doubled. just under full is only 5 grains and that is a pretty good shooting round in everything I have ever shot. now if you want some really soft shooting 9's try 3.5gr of unique under a 147gr bullet. This will not function all guns, but it has all glocks I have shot it in. It will drop the brass at your feet.
 

ssgrock3

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Worst mistake I've made is to not charge a case or two. I ended up with a stuck bullet in my 1911. It was pretty obvious a pipsqueek pop from the primer and a curl of smoke. cleared it nad found the obstruction. Tapped it out with a hard wood dowel and went back to shooting.
I also had a batch of 50 rounds of .357 mag that was so gawd awfull poor accuracy wise that after a dozen rounds I decided to pull the whole batch and start over. I found 5-6 rounds out of the remaing 30 some odd didn't have any powder.
I did have one case of a probable double charge in a .38 special. I had loaded up some absolute minimum charge loads with Unique- just about cat sneeze power level. pip, pip, pip, pip, pip, BOOM. Kind of got my attention. I looked at my load records and even a triple charge would have been maybe a little above .38 spec. +P out of a .357 mag Ruger Vaquero.
Know your limits and stay within them.

good advice. I like the analogy of overcharging that .38. Hell on brass to do that, but most quality brand guns would have taken it!! lol
 

aeropb

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Using a high volume powder as people already mentioned is a good idea. On my .38 spl plinking rounds I use 2.8 grains of Bullseye. Low enough that even in the event of a double load, nothing catastrophic will happen. It will just be a +P round. Just go slow and check your work. If you wanna load 9mm, you should get a progressive(550b!). Wouldn't be worth the time to do them on a single stage imo.
 

GlockCop

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I used to load 9 on a single stage when I first started out. I am so glad I have a Dillon now. Much faster and still makes a good quality round. Just take your time and check everything and youll be fine. My worst has been a couple with no powder. Not a huge deal.
 

ssgrock3

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the only way to load 9 is in a progressive, anything less just sucks. a square deal will make you love the little 9 again.
 

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