What should my next .357mag Smith and Wesson be?

Honey Badger

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Several years ago I owned two 6" Colt Pythons, one was blue that I shot occasionally and the other was nickel plated that I kept as a unfired safe queen......sold both for pretty good $$$.

Anyway, I also had a older no lock S & W 6" model 686 (also gone) about the same time that when rested on bags would consistently out shoot the blued 6" Python.......if another used pre-lock 6" 686 became available for a decent price I'd find it pretty difficult to not purchase it.

View attachment 203494

I need one of these. In fact I am looking for one. Not very hard, but I am looking.
 

pstmstr

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My 637 and 442 are pre lock. I was recently looking at a 329 and started looking for a way to remove the lock from it if I bought it. I found this guy’s website.
https://www.originalprecision.com/lock-delete-kit.html
Not sure why the lock worries everyone. I’ve had my S&W 340 for about 10 years and fired all kinds of ammo thru it without issue. I realize it “could” fail but I suspect that’s more of a gun forum discussion than a real problem. Anyone here experienced an actual problem caused by the lock?
 

Rez Exelon

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Don't forget when you get your 686 to get the deluxe one:
IMG_20200823_113835.jpg
 

retrieverman

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Not sure why the lock worries everyone. I’ve had my S&W 340 for about 10 years and fired all kinds of ammo thru it without issue. I realize it “could” fail but I suspect that’s more of a gun forum discussion than a real problem. Anyone here experienced an actual problem caused by the lock?
I’ve read of problems online, but I’ve never owned a Smith with a lock so have no personal experience. I’m not so much concerned about a malfunction. I just don’t like the “look” of it. If I do end up with a gun with a lock, I will definitely buy the delete/plug to fill the hole.:anyone:
 

zipty6

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What’s the reason? i was probably going to mainly shoot 38spl

Until the most recent iterations, the K frame revolvers had a flat spot at the bottom of the forcing cone. There is documented history of extensive firing of high-velocity 357 ammo causing a crack at that location. This is one of the reasons that the L frame was developed. Stick with 158 grain and heavier and you will be fine. 38 and 38+P are fine, regardless of bullet weight.

A web search will give you many examples. The Revolverguy blog has a pretty good write-up here:
The Smith & Wesson L-Frame Story
 
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