Went to grab my 17 yr old La Patrie Etude classical guitar and the bridge had separated from the body of the guitar. Anyone know of a guitar repairman in Norman? Should be a pretty straightforward glue job.
Thanks
Thanks
Just get some gorilla glue and a c-clamp.
http://www.funmanguitarrepair.com/
He has been through a professional Luthiery school.
I've never had work done here, but I'm considering getting a guitar worked on.
He has been through a professional Luthiery school.
I've never had work done here, but I'm considering getting a guitar worked on.
There is a place in Midwest City that my friend has taken his to get fixed. He is avid about his guitars like most of the members are about guns on this site. He said they did an awesome job but it was expensive. I believe it is called jinkins music off 15th street.
Call Jay Stanley at Edmond Music and tell him DC told you to call. The phone number is 348-0004. They have a store in Norman but not sure if they do repair there. Jay can tell you and will treat you right. He's been in the biz for 35 years and can tell you whose the best.
Thanks Dustin, I think I have a bottle of Gorilla Glue around here from my last gunsmithing project. You know how it goes when the dremel goes a little crazy. A little GG mixed with metal shavings and you're good to go.
+1 on Jay at Edmond Music.
Have you tried Ron Lira,he owns Honest Ron's on NW10 and May Ave.
***Call first, he has crazy hours....can fix any kind of srtinged instrument!!!!
His web-site:http://www.honestronsguitars.com/main.htm
Cohiba
Have you tried Ron Lira,he owns Honest Ron's on NW10 and May Ave.
***Call first, he has crazy hours....can fix any kind of srtinged instrument!!!!
His web-site:http://www.honestronsguitars.com/main.htm
Cohiba
haha, no problem man!
GL getting it fixed up. Please post up about your experience with whomever you choose.
There's more to it than Gorilla Glue and a c-clamp.
I used to work on guitars, and I've done a LOT of bridges.
First, you have to remove all the old glue. It's easy to take off too much wood or scratch the finish on the top if you're not careful. When you get a good clean, tight-fitting joint,the proper glue to use is hot (not liquid) hide glue.That allows a future repairman to remove the bridge at a later date, and allows the best sound transmission to the top.I would NOT use Gorilla Glue or other polyurethane glue. I have used Titebond(original) but the hot hide glue is much better.
The bridge needs to be clamped with a minimum of three clamps: middle and each end,padded to protect the finish and blocked up underneath to clear the braces.
I usually taped off the outline of the bridge with blue tape to keep any glue squeeze-out off the top. It doesn't take much pressure on the clamps, either.
Now when you get an estimate on re-gluing the bridge, you will realize what goes in to it.
I used to work on guitars, and I've done a LOT of bridges.
First, you have to remove all the old glue. It's easy to take off too much wood or scratch the finish on the top if you're not careful. When you get a good clean, tight-fitting joint,the proper glue to use is hot (not liquid) hide glue.That allows a future repairman to remove the bridge at a later date, and allows the best sound transmission to the top.I would NOT use Gorilla Glue or other polyurethane glue. I have used Titebond(original) but the hot hide glue is much better.
The bridge needs to be clamped with a minimum of three clamps: middle and each end,padded to protect the finish and blocked up underneath to clear the braces.
I usually taped off the outline of the bridge with blue tape to keep any glue squeeze-out off the top. It doesn't take much pressure on the clamps, either.
Now when you get an estimate on re-gluing the bridge, you will realize what goes in to it.
