For you farm tractor guys.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

NationalMatch

Sharpshooter
Special Hen
Joined
Aug 21, 2021
Messages
1,067
Reaction score
2,332
Location
Oklahoma
I've come into possession of a John Deere 6083. There's no electric where I keep it and yesterday (Tuesday) it was below freezing. The temps had risen to 40 degrees but it didn't fire up as promptly as usual.

Is it practical to plug the engine heater into a portable generator prior to starting, or is that a feature that requires 24/7 power?
 

Cowcatcher

Unarmed boating accident survivor
Supporting Member
Special Hen Supporter
Joined
Dec 22, 2017
Messages
6,171
Reaction score
13,853
Location
Inola
A 6083? Never heard of it. Yeah you can plug the block heater into a genny. You’ll just have to test how long it takes to get it warm enough to fire. I know the 40 series will fire after being plugged in for an hour.
 

NationalMatch

Sharpshooter
Special Hen
Joined
Aug 21, 2021
Messages
1,067
Reaction score
2,332
Location
Oklahoma
A 6083? Never heard of it. Yeah you can plug the block heater into a genny. You’ll just have to test how long it takes to get it warm enough to fire. I know the 40 series will fire after being plugged in for an hour.
My bad. It's a 2010 5083E. 2162 total hours. Professionally winter prepped last year but we only put about 20 hours on it since then.

It started fine. The night temp was 28 degrees. I got to the tractor when the temp was 40 degrees. It just didn't fire up on the first crank like it normally does (in ~60 degree weather). It had to crank 3 or 4 times.

And the former owner (my late FIL) would plug it into his residential extension cord. Dunno if such was ever actually necessary. But, I'm told, that's what he did.

Winter fuel mixture? Is that simply an additive?

Also, is the tractor battery capable of being "jumped" from a pickup?
 

sklfco

Sharpshooter
Special Hen
Joined
Sep 4, 2012
Messages
4,213
Reaction score
14,037
Location
claremore

Winter fuel mixture? Is that simply an additive?​

SUMMER DIESEL FUEL (GRADE NO.2)

During warmer months, it's reasonable to use grade no.2 diesel fuel, also called "summer" diesel fuel. It starts clouding at about – 7 °C compared to "straight-up" grade no.1 fuel, which does the same at – 40 °C.

WINTER DIESEL FUEL (GRADE NO.1 + GRADE NO.2)

Winter diesel fuel is a mix of grade no.1 and grade no.2 fuel. The main component of grade no.1 diesel is kerosene. Meanwhile, it doesn't contain paraffin. These two factors lower the cloud and pour points of the mix, thus preventing gelling in cold temperatures.

Depending on the area you live in, the ratio of no.1 to no.2 diesel fuels in the winter blend can vary. Generally, it's about 20 to 80. For the coldest regions, pure grade no.1 diesel fuel may be required.

Even though pure grade no. 1 diesel fuel may seem an excellent solution due to its low gelling point, it's more expensive and has a lower energy content. Running an engine on pure grade no.1 diesel fuel continuously could reduce the fuel system's life.

Overall, you can use summer diesel fuel before the temperature drops below – 7 °C. Then it's time to switch to the winter blend.
Also, is the tractor battery capable of being "jumped" from a pickup?
Absolutely, as long as it is a 12v system.

Might want to get some of this, it helps when the temps really drop.

https://powerservice.com/psp_product/diesel-fuel-supplement-cetane-boost/
 

OKfella

Sharpshooter
Special Hen
Joined
Aug 28, 2008
Messages
301
Reaction score
86
Location
oklahoma city
Winter fuel mixture? Is that simply an additive?

Yes and no. You can and ought add a fuel additive to diesel in freezing temps, or the wax beads up and the stuff won't flow. By winter mix, though, he is referring to the fact that the diesel that you buy at the pump in cold months is already a winter mix, no further additive required.

In your case, I would add some to the fuel. Can't hurt will no doubt help.

Good luck!
 

OHJEEZE

Sharpshooter
Special Hen
Joined
Jun 9, 2021
Messages
1,689
Reaction score
2,402
Location
Not in Oklahoma!
It's a 2010 5083E.
If it has been sitting long make sure the battery is charged first.

A low (or weak) battery will crank slow making a diesel a hard start!


Then.....

Take your key and insert it like normal.
Then apply pressure like you are trying to stick it in further, you will overcome a light spring pressure.

Hold it in and you'll see a light light up in the instrument cluster that looks like a glowing coil.

Hold it and count to 5, after a 5 count, while holding it in, turn to start.

You really should not need the glow plugs @ 40° though,

You can vary the key hold in time acording to temps.

I generally never went past 10 prior to starting and 10 after it was running.

You'll see by experimenting holding the key in to keep the glow plugs activated a wee bit after it starts chugging on its own helps smooth it out.

You can jump your tractor with your pickup
 
Last edited:

Chaparral

Sharpshooter
Supporting Member
Special Hen Supporter
Joined
Dec 9, 2021
Messages
918
Reaction score
1,150
Location
Tulsa, OK
Get a battery blanket installed. Does not hurt to put an old blanket on the battery but remember to remove before attempting to start and only put on when engine is cooled, ie do NOT want to start a fire.

we keep a portable charger just in case, but yes, yours should be 12v so no issues jumping with truck.

Check the battery. They no longer last as well as they used to. Make sure it is at least 750CCA. Some people were replacing with undersized batteries. Check all fluids, is the oil the correct viscosity?

Starts at 28 but not 40. Sounds like battery is going bad, but this is Monday morning quarterbacking.

Tractor with 2k hours should have a long life remaining. One of the things I would check is individually review each bolt linking the engine and transmission. If it has not been on rocky ground this is a very low priority and should never be an issue. On rocky ground it can turn into one imho.

Do you have a front end loader fitted? If not, they are very handy.

what type of use will you be doing? Keep all attachments sized to tractor. Do not put an attachment requiring 80 HP, you have 65 HP at the PTO. In my case I try and keep a 5HP buffer. I know people who do not, they buy more often than I do. Had land for 30 years, on my second only because I wanted a front end loader. My original 1970 Massey is still running, mowing, and bailing hay.
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom